ok so from what ive been reading, If the boost control solenoid is hooked up correctly, the stock t25 set up should run 11 psi -correct me if im wrong! anyway all vacuum/boost lines are hooked up, and the solenoid is plugged in, but it wont push anything more than 7 lbs, i kno the simple fix would be to get a boost controller yada yada lol, but if i can get this to work why not right! thanks in advance
Hooked up correctly it does absolutely nothing to alter boost. Hooked up backwards it will cause boost pressure to spike upwards of 10psi and then fall to 9psi. People have made claims it will raise boost up to 11 psi but I have tried it myself and hooked up correctly it did nothing.
And lastly, the little green box with black knob that sits on the same bracket as the Solenoid and Ignitor is not a Boost Control Knob but the AIV Control (95% of people think its for Boost Control).
---------- Post added at 01:11 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:09 PM ----------
Can’t adjust a stock actuator… Hence why hes trying to fiddle with the Boost Solenoid to trick the gate into staying closed longer.
thanks for the input! seems the be the case here, alot of mixed stories on different boards, but i was a little suspicious of a stock set up running 11psi from the factory, and yea i knew that knob was for the aiv lol, would have been awesome if nissan threw on a boost control knob on there Lol! no biggie thanks for the help,
on a side note, the motor has a somewhat high idle, seems to be pretty comfortable at around 1300, sometimes will drop to about 1000 but as soon as i touch the gas again it will just stick around 12 - 1300, the motor has z32 maf and i know that causes it to idle a little crazy when its at the idling range, could it just be the ecu trying to stabilize the motor so its bumping up the idle a bit?? its not a huge issue, just tryin to sort out the bugs now, Rob if by chance you might know a trick or something to helpin this out shoot me a pm or call me!!
Use the adjuster screw on your IACV. My idle was around 1200rpms at one point, i adjusted it, and now it always stays around 800rpms and doesn’t stick higher up like it used to.
^^i adjusted the screw under the intake a little bit and it did mildly help, see if i pull the idle down by say letting out the clutch a little in gear, it will stay low around 900, but as soon as i touch the gas idle goes back to about 13, d1 does that sound remotely like what was goin on with yours, if thats the case ill just keep turning the screw down, i just feel that when its down so low if it ever corrects itself, (which Sometimes happens, hardly tho) it will drop down below 500 or stall or somethin -please try and excuse all the noobishness goin on lol, cheers
ya thats pretty much what mine was doing. I adjusted mine with the tps unplugged. supposedly you’re supposed to adjust it like that. keep adjusting and see what happens. just dont strip that screw.
If your throttle cable is to tight then it wont allow it to complete close “hence the higher idle”. So that is the first thing I’d check. If its fine then continue to adjust the idle screw until it drops to where you want it.
^^ yea that was actually the first thing i checked, havent had a chance to turn down the screw yet ill see how that goes tonight, hopefully thats all it is
incase more ppl are curious about the stock boost, not sure if its really the truth, but the info is consistant at least, so the stock actuator spring is set at 7 psi, with no solenoid you will always be set at 7psi, by default, If you have the solenoid hooked up and is functioning, this bypasses some boost pressure to get up to 11psi, the purpose of this is incase the engine senses knocking, the solenoid closes and the boost drops back down to 7 because the actuator is getting the full signal, and supposably most engine swaps dont have the solenoid because there bolted the fender rather than part of the engine, if you think about it, it makes sence, why would nissan install a boost pressure solenoid, and set it at 7psi which is the default amount of the wastegate actuator?
open for discussion lol, im not trying to say im right or anything, just interested about this, ive read alot of threads about it, but this one seems to be most informative,
The Solenoid is not supplied by Nissan with the intent of allowing owners to run 11psi. Why is it there if the gate is set @ 7psi also. BECAUSE ITS A FAIL SAFE! If the actuator does not open then the ECU can tell the solenoid to alter vacuum pressure and make the gate door blow open in order to dump the boost.
Why don’t most engine swaps have this ? Because people choose not to hook it up or simply do not even know what it is.
Lastly… stop reading and try it for yourself. Either it works or it doesn’t. And coming from someone who has tried it, it does not work the way you seem to think it does! Nor does it do anything when its hooked up normally. You have to reverse the vacuum lines in order to raise the boost pressure and by doing so you are simply altering the pressure going to actuator which allows the door to stay closed a little bit longer. Which is the same thing a MBC does so do yourself a favor and do it proper, using MBC and not half ass trying to rig the solenoid!
Also, theirs these things called Adjustable Wastegate Actuators and they work like a dream! And having a Solenoid, MBC and Adjustable Actuator, I chose to use the Adjustable Actuator