like the subject said i’m trying to remove a M/T from a parts car right now and i’m a noobie.
I’ve got some things done allready but i’m lost with what to do with the lines to the master cylinder. Were should i disconnect them or do i take the slave cylinder off the frame and try to bring it all out with the tranny?
A few instructions from someone whos done this before would be great thanks.
just undo the 2 14mm bolts that fasten the slave to the tranny out and let it hang or tuck it up… you don’t want to have to bleed it if you don’t need to.
Theo
If i remove the bolts isn’t it still attacted to that peice in the rubber boot that slides into the transmission? how does that come apart will it just slide out?
And since then 5 speeds going into a different car i’ll have to bleed the lines anyways.
the metal clutch line will go into a proportioning block, a metal block about the size of a pack of cigerettes, you do not need this and in fact most of the people on this board who have done they’re own work eliminate this (I did)…
then you will need the rubber flex line that goes to the slave.
you might as well disconect the metal line at both ends for ease of travel…
so it’s possible to totally remove the proportioning block without any effects?
how was the lines be hooked up after?
wat’s the benefit in removing the block?
so it’s possible to totally remove the proportioning block without any effects?
how was the lines be hooked up after?
wat’s the benefit in removing the block?[/quote]
line (hard) direstly to flex line. Benefit, easier to bleed, and some have said the pedal feel is better, I however noticed no difference
The block is supposed to act like a buffer so it feels smooth, linear etc…
That’s great for grandmas but it’s a bitch to bleed air out of the system thanks to it.
ya I just bypassed mine and wow is it Soooo much easer,
and it actually made my clutch more streetable oddly enough.
sweet, I think that’s the reason why my clutch is not disengaging after the engine driven for a period of time. DO I need any special hardware to reconnect the lines?
wate wate so it is fine at first but gets worse the more you drive it???
that is kinda odd
no but I would recomend a line wrench, as an open wrench may round the fittings.
yeah it’s really weird. I have a SPEC stage 2 clutch and it makes the pedal REALLY stiff plus the engagement point is REALLY high (actually, the clutch makes the pedal come out farther so I literally have to lift my entire leg to disengage the clutch). I bled the clutch via porprotioning block and it made the clutch pedal more tolerable meaning that engagement point isn’t as high and not as stiff but after driving on the highway or driving that involves constant revving, those nasty characteristics start creeping back.
when you by pass the proportion block do you need to install anynew lines?
can the rubber hose from the slave reach to were that main line, that comes from the master cylinder, connects to propontioning block? If it can i’m guessing thats all you have to do to bypass it??
ya it can reach just bend the hardline carfully.
if you clutch pedal is to high as well as the grab point just grab a 12 and 14mm wrend and take about 2 min under the foot well to adjust it, it is dam easy and you can make it exactly where you want it
where can I adjust it?
where can I adjust it?[/quote]
there is a rod that goes through the firewall to the pedal on the end of the rod is a fork which conects to the pedal, the rod is threaded, loosen the nut and turn the rod, I used vise grip plyers