my passenger rear bleeder screw is rusted, Ive tried using WD-40 and using a torch but it wouldn’t move at all.
anyone knows any other ways to get it free without braking the bleeder screw?
heat it to almost red hot with a torch, then cool it with cold water right away. make sure you get it cold. then heat it again, cool. once more heat cycle it, and after cooling it get a 10mm socket on it - not a wrench - and give it a sharp left handed twist. both of mine were seized and using this method worked fine for me. Make sure you give it a quick twist though, don’t slowly apply pressure or it’ll just break off.
Hope this works for you!
forgot to mention - make sure you don’t try to loosen the bleeder while its warm. The metal will be way too soft and it’ll probably just break right off.
^^^with that being said only heat up the caliper around the bleeder do not get the bleeder itself glowing hot.
You can also try giving the caliper a couple hard hits with a hammer around the bleeder screw before you cool it down to shock the threads and break up some of the corrosion keeping it in stuck in there.
In addition to what they said, use an impact gun to remove it if you have one, it will do a better job of shocking it loose than you can with your hand.
I cringed a bit thinking of an air gun…maybe a air ratchet :S
Air ratchet doesn’t give the same jolt an impact does… you’ll look like an idiot impacting a 10mm off, but I have never broken a bleeder screw using an impact.
This man knows the tricks…
I do have an impact gun in my garage
do I use the gun after I heat it up with a torch and cool it with cold water?
Do it before you heat it up too much more so you don’t melt the seals in the caliper.
I know when we did Osad’s car we ended up just replacing the caliper because it was easier.
okay before I proceed doin this
if I break the bleeder screw where can I bring it to get the rest of the bleeder screw out
or get a rebuild if possible
I went out today to try to get off the bleeder screw. I used a torch, cool it with cold water and repeated the steps about 2 more times.
tried to get it goin with a 10mm socket but it still wouldnt move. I used the impact gun and the bleeder screw just broke right off.
anyone know a way to get the rest of it out or know a place I can get a rebuild?
Just go to napa, partsource, Ct, or any jobber, get a remanned one and give them that as your core.
You tempered it when you heated it and quenched it. Good job.
That’s why I said use the impact before you try heating it and quenching it.
This is also why people who don’t know how to loosen things with heat properly, shouldn’t.
Like DJ said… you tempered the metal making it hard and brittle. Either take it to a machine shop and have them remove it for you or as suggested just get a replacement. Which sounds like would be your best bet.
I went to Part Source today and bought one there.
Hopefully I wont have any other problems later on after the bleeding process.
btw is the bleedin process RL -> RR -> FL -> FR or RL -> RR -> FR -> FL?
Start from the furthest point from the brake booster, that would be the passenger rear, drivers rear, front passenger then front drivers.
I replaced all bleeder screws just incase if they were seized or something. I bleeded the brakes and now the car is fine. Thanks alot guys!
i didnt read the post so i dunno where ur at but at my school when i was going for auto tech said heat it up really hot then take a candle and put it to where the threads are the wax will melt in lubing the threads and getting inbetween the rust then throw cold watter o n it and just slowly work it out with a wrench back and forth
^ thats what the other members said up in those posts. I already replaced all 4 the bleeder screws and had no problems bleeding the brakes.
I took it out for a test drive most of the day yesterday and its runnin strong still, brakes working good as well.
once again, thanks everyone who helped me.