… what is one to do?
Does one need to buy a new caliper? And want to shoot themselves in the face?
Alright. Thanks. i’ll need to pick up an easy out kit.
Any idea about how much they cost?
I think it’s pretty car specific. I’m 99% sure you can’t fix it on a civic’s rear drums. I’ve got a broken one now and what I read on Honda-tech you need to just buy a new drum or upgrade to the disc brakes.
ALL bleeders will unscrew 100% of the way and are replacable. I’ve never seen ANYTHING different.
Little warning on the ez-out.
If the bleeder is so siezed in there that you broke it trying to remove it, chances are you’re simply going to break the ez-out as well. The ez-out, by design, has to be smaller in diameter than the thing you’re trying to back out. And once you snap that hardened steel ez-out off in there it will be a huge PITA to drill out since ez-outs are generally as hard or harder than most drill bits.
Get yourself some Kroil, the best penatrating oil I’ve ever used:
http://www.kanolabs.com/
Spray that on, let it set for a day. Then try the ez out. If it doesn’t feel like it’s going to come, give up. Drill it out oversized and put one of those oversized bleeder repair things in there.
ez out + heat. that’s your best bet.
he speaks the truth and i just heat every bleeder now no matter what because they do have a tendency to break.
As for the civic needing a new drum that is incorrect it will need a new wheel cylinder if it has drum brakes since that is what the bleeder is on.
are calipers that much for it?. same thing pat said when i remove brake lines bleeders and wheel cylinder i always use heat
Another warning, this time on heat. Too much and you’ll melt the caliper seals.
for the most part the heat will be concentrated on the bleeder screw and if ur careful will no way affect the seals…
Truth
i payed 8 bux for my eazy out kit @ Frep Poys. Those things are the shit, and sharp…lol
Use caution when heating it up, fire and boiling (ruining the brake fluid). Also, I’ve drilled out a bleeder or two in my day and I have started just removing the caliper to do so because I’ve removed ALOT of shaving from the inside of the caliper after I was done.
…thats all.
another thing i have recently come upon that absolutely rocks is a lubricant similar to what JayS posted is this stuff called RustBuster. that stuff absolutely rocks when it comes to seized bolts and such. and is the bleeder broke off flush/below the caliper surface, or is there a bit of bleeder still exposed. i have a set of IRWIN bolt extractors that are amazing.
simply put a block in the caliper and tip it so the line is the highest point not the bleeder then loosen the lin and alow air to escape. this dosent work in all applications though