reporting to nyspeed..

Heh, good point. $6k for 50,000 miles sucks. $6k for the LAST 50,000 miles of the car’s life really sucks.

[My Opinion]Cool car. Would make for an awesome weekend toy. Not DD material.[/My Opinion]

Please, educate me as to why. Do you know anything about the car or motor in question other than the mileage? Yeah, didnt think so.

Go with 3k, settle on 4 and a half. If the motor is in good shape it will go at least another 100k miles. Verify this with a dealership or other shop.

If the motor starts to go or is bad, use it as leverage for cheaper sale, and swap in a WRX motor for 4k with labor. Then you’ll have a faster, stiffer, cooler WRX for way less than 10k.

$6k is standard fare for a 2000-2001 coupe with less than 100k on the clock in good shape. Then you get an LSD, more colors, newer, updated interior, etc etc.

I’m sure this particular car is in very good shape, but I think its too much money. But then again who pays asking value for a car?

Fixed it for ya. :kiss:

Nope, don’t know much about ej25’s. Never seen that specific example in person.

However, you can’t argue… ahem, let me rephrase that before you school me just to prove me wrong… She has already said that she’s getting help from her parents to buy this car, hence she must not have a great income. So it wouldn’t be a very responsible decision for her to spend that 6 grand on a car with 150,000 miles just because it’s the model she likes. That’s great if it’s a durable motor and a well cared for example. But a 150k Impreza RS is likely to have more problems than an 80k Impreza L, or 60k Civic, or… Also, she does not post frequently in the technical subforum, so I would assume that things like no-start issues would be more of a problem for her than for someone like yourself who has a ton of wrenching experience. More costly as well if she has to take it somewhere to diagnose that distributor that gave up the ghost, or replace that wheel bearing, or…

I suppose I’m making some assumptions, but I’d say they’re pretty reasonable assumptions.

I see what you’re saying in that the RS could be a reliable car for her. What I’m getting at is that in what I’m assuming is her situation, that $6,000 dollars would be better spent on a less fun car with lower miles.

http://www.nyspeed.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=2108&stc=1&d=1180495740
http://www.nyspeed.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=2109&stc=1&d=1180495740

lol having fun with my new tablet

:lol:
Amusing image, but I’ve had stone reliable cars with 280k+ on them before.

Somedude’s Turbo SHO has like 230 on the stock motor. No problems with the engine, just the 4k mile trany.

Yes Honda and LS1 worshipers, 230k + 12lbs of boost, completely stock internals. Factory forged FTW, TYVM :smiley:

If I were you, I’d go for it.

I was going to buy this car if I had any luck moving my WRX, but alas, I’ve not.

To all the non-Scooby people, this car is worth that money all day long. KBB, Edmunds, etc won’t agree. But as we should all know by now, those sites are often not accurate when it comes to cars like this.

If you look on nasioc.com you’ll find these cars selling for this much/more all the time.

Also, these motors don’t kaboom at 200,000 miles. This car could be your DD for years.

97 Legacy Sedan. $5900. 54k.
http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?car_id=222977297&dealer_id=343040&car_year=1997&search_type=both&num_records=&keywordsfyc=&make=SUB&transmission=Manual&make3=&distance=50&address=14150&default_sort=priceDESC&advanced=&certified=&model3=&model2=&max_mileage=&max_price=6500&sort_type=priceDESC&min_price=&body_code=0&end_year=2008&keywordsrep=&color=&start_year=1981&color3=&drive=&color2=&engine=&fuel=&doors=&style_flag=1&cardist=9

97 Impreza L 112k. $4000
http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?car_id=190346221&dealer_id=57002610&car_year=1997&search_type=both&num_records=&keywordsfyc=&make=SUB&transmission=Manual&make3=&distance=50&address=14150&default_sort=priceDESC&advanced=&certified=&model3=&model2=&max_mileage=&max_price=6500&sort_type=priceDESC&min_price=&body_code=0&end_year=2008&keywordsrep=&color=&start_year=1981&color3=&drive=&color2=&engine=&fuel=&doors=&style_flag=1&cardist=18

99 Maxima 89k $7500
http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?car_id=220933569&dealer_id=103701&car_year=1999&search_type=both&num_records=&keywordsfyc=&make=NISSAN&transmission=Manual&make3=&distance=50&address=14150&default_sort=priceDESC&advanced=&certified=&model3=&model2=&max_mileage=&max_price=8000&sort_type=priceDESC&min_price=&body_code=0&end_year=2008&keywordsrep=&color=&start_year=1981&color3=&drive=&color2=&engine=&fuel=&doors=&style_flag=1&cardist=3

97 Integra 71k $6700
http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?car_id=217741104&dealer_id=57966496&car_year=1997&search_type=both&num_records=&keywordsfyc=&make=ACURA&transmission=Manual&make3=&distance=50&address=14150&default_sort=priceDESC&advanced=&certified=&model3=&model2=&max_mileage=&max_price=8000&sort_type=priceDESC&min_price=&body_code=0&end_year=2008&keywordsrep=&color=&start_year=1981&color3=&drive=&color2=&engine=&fuel=&doors=&style_flag=1&cardist=12

All manual transmissions of course. All in the Buffalo area.

Just food for thought.

An RS is wayyyy better than anything you just listed.

True story. Not necessarily better for someone in need of a DD on a budget though.

But hey, look who’s talking about reliable DD’s? I drive a MKIV VR6 Jetta. :lol:

I was hesitant to buy my MB w/ 41K on the odo…from a kid who was so by-the-book I had to twist his arm to get him to write a low ass reciept

I wouldn’t even look at a car w/ 100K+ unless it was sub < $1000

Either spend a little more money and get something with less miles or get “less” of a car.

unless every part on the car has been replaced in the last 50K i’d walk, or run away.

If it was properly cared for and it has next to no rust I’d say do it. Properly cared for that car should last a good while, as well as hold it’s value extremely well.

But that is only if you can get the price down some.

from an RS guy, i think its a bit steep

but ive only owned 3, so what do i know :stuck_out_tongue:

fwiw, the motor is extremely durable and will last in excess of 200K…however the supporting cast of wheel bearings, axles, and differential can become a nuisance

again, not like i know or anything :stuck_out_tongue:

WHERE?

i’ve yet to see a reliable shop quote under ~2500 for labor on the swap alone…and ive also yet to see a good condition running motor go for anything near 1500 lol

I’d say thats high. Some people swear by the high-mileage Subaru Legacys and Imprezas, but then again you pay less so you take less of a hit if this logic proves to be wrong.

I’d say you fix the Audi, by say, buying a passenger door from me for, oh, around $29. I even have one in stock.:lolsign:

you can do better.

its really easy to spend other peoples money. if it was my cash, i would be looking for somthing in the 50-70k mile range. you shouldnt have to settle for anything over 100k with 6g’s to spend.

http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?car_id=223213596&dealer_id=60253743&car_year=1999&num_records=25&start_year=1981&keywordsfyc=&keywordsrep=&engine=&certified=&body_code=0&fuel=&search_type=both&distance=75&make=&color=&min_price=2001&drive=&default_sort=priceDESC&max_mileage=&style_flag=1&sort_type=priceDESC&address=14150&advanced=y&end_year=2008&doors=&transmission=Manual&max_price=4000&cardist=66

Go buy this. Seriously. 200SX SE-R 5MT with only 61k asking $3995??? Do it.

http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?car_id=223364852&dealer_id=55570268&car_year=1995&num_records=25&start_year=1981&keywordsfyc=&keywordsrep=&engine=&certified=&body_code=0&fuel=&search_type=both&distance=75&make=&color=&min_price=2001&drive=&default_sort=priceDESC&max_mileage=&style_flag=1&sort_type=priceDESC&address=14150&advanced=y&end_year=2008&doors=&transmission=Manual&max_price=4000&cardist=54

Fry, I hate you for posting that Subaru Imprezza sedan up. Because I know it won’t be there this fall when I have cash and am looking at buying a long term-reliable car with AWD.