Ok, so it all started with my so called “timing chain” problem. I took off the whole front of the motor (belts crank pully etc) but it turned out to be a bad oil pump. Took it to an auto shop (i hear they do great work) and they put it in and timed it.
Now, ive had a rough idle for awhile now, i thought landreys messed up on the timing, but it turns out i had 2 vaccume lines unhooked. I plugged those back in and it still had a rough idle. I played with the distributer and nothing helped. it almost seems like its out of the perfect idle range
I changed the Spark plugs/wires/fuel filter/threw some injector cleaner in gas tank and it still runs like garbage. Ive also tried spraying carb cleaner in my idle control valve, and nothing changed. It idles like i have an extreme aftermarket cam in there. it also sounds like its misfiring. The idle will fluctuate from 750-900 on a regular basis, but tonight it drops down to 500rpm and 300rpm then eventually stalls. I also have a CAI and the filter is right by my driver wheel with no splash guard, after driving it tonight (was really raining hard) thats when it started to idle really bad and stall.
When im coming to a stop the idle fluctuates and my car almost stalls, but starting tonight it started stalling whenever i came to a stop with the brakes on, car in neutral.
Now, a couple nights ago, my alternator adjustment bolt rattled itsself loose from my car (possibly the rough idle shaking everythjing apart?) and the belt started squeeking. I have an Apexi RSM and it can measure voltage, now tonight i set it on the voltage setting, and i turn on my A/C and my belt squeeks and i got from 14.2v to 13.2/3/4/5 etc. So i know its my alternator belt squeeking. The RSm also can measure RPM. The idle will fluctuate from 750-900 on a regular basis, but tonight it drops down to 5xx rpm and 3xx rpm then eventually stalls.
I also had a battery die on me from the rough idle, it seems to suck lots of juice when trying to stay running. Lights dim…etc
Now here is my questions #1 could not putting on the crank pully causing a rough idle? #2 i trust the auto shops work, but could the timing be off? #3 my car has been guzzling alot of gas lately, could this be related? #4 could having the cai by the wheel w/o splash gaurd be a cause of the stalling? like a mild form of hydrolock? It only started after driving tonight in the hard rain/deep puddles but it still starts.
Hmmmm, have you tried the alternator. Unhook the battery while the car is running, if it stalls then it’s your alternator. Even though you sprayed carb cleaner and such it could still be a congested intake manifold. I had the same prob earlier this year. The same symptoms, I took it to Nissan (talk to Jason, he’s our age and he’s really comprehensive, if you have questions he’ll answer, he’s the young asian guy with glasses, and really into tuners) and he cleaned it. Costed like 30 bux and it ran like a new car after. Just my thoughts.
Pull of you air filter and see what condition it’s in. See if it’s soaking wet or needs a cleaning.
With you voltmeter, check how much power you have at your O2 sensor in your exhuast. Your symptoms sound very similiar to a bad O2 sensor, with low idle, stalling and low milage.
Well , there are a lot of different variables … You can small by small start replacing stuff and eliminate and hope along the way it will fix before anything big like actual timing problem…
Mine sounds like its missing… Red on the net couple of forums, sometimes fj20’s with bigger injectors due to higher fuel pressure might sound like its missing… replace the plugs , leads , get the injectors cleaned or run some injector cleaner stuff, fuel filter , new rail, your pressure regulators might be off, maybe O2 sensor … it really is a bitch… might be an ecu/maf problem, maybe it needs tuning … could be anything really … just hope u dont need to do timing on the engine cuz thats pricey and lame…
#1: No it can’t. But obviously your crank pulley is there or else you won’t have any belt turning at all. #2: It’s possible. Their human and make mistakes. If it’s a shop that doesn’t know where your motor came from or what the hell it is because it’s a Japanese motor, then the timing could be off, yes. Even if they did have specs, they may have screwed up, it’s hard to say. Put your cylinder #1 at TDC on compression stroke and see where the dowel lines up with what hole on the crank pulley. #3: If your timing is off, it will definetly be related. However, other things that cause bad idle could cause that too. As said above, bad MAF, etc. #4: It’s possible. But I don’t think thats your problem. If you car hydrolocked, it most likely would have shut off completely and may have not started again until all the water was removed from the cylinders. You can’t compress a liquid. Does you car always run bad like this or just when you go through puddles/when it’s wet out?