rustproofing doesnt do anything at all…
it just makes a mess of the car.
GT
then why does my winter drivin 1990 that has been rustproofed each year have zero rust on it? fluke of nature?
My car has 310,000KM on it and the frame and underbody are peachy.
…thanks to Krown.
I would highly reccommend this service. When the time times I hope this
buy is still around, because I hope to recoat it before the winter this year.
Thanks for setting this up Bruce.
Do it sooner than later.
Same. When the “time times” I would like to as well. 
I got the underspray plus the injection inside my panels/rockers.
Cost me like $110 or something. :dunno:
Why are you getting rust proofing done now? :dunno:
This is more of a fall thing.
^^^^
Actually no it’s not!
That is what I thought too but according to Dave and Susie, who own the shop, the time to do it is now. As stated above the chemical’s are HEAT ACTIVATED so you need to get it done late spring/early summer so it has time to fully bake in.
So the time is now and this GB is going to be offered over the next couple of weeks depending on interest or if it fills up.
I am getting mine done very soon based on what they told me. So I would suggest you all listen to the experts, not the rumours or misconceptions out there. There busiest time is now and not in the fall or before winter.
ive owned 12 cars and not one except for my current car had a rust spray.
little to no rust on any of them…
so no. not a fluke.
its called maintenance.
ie regularily washing your car in the winter at the coin wash.
and in the spring doing a top to bottom detail of the car.
GT
i could get into this, but im not going to. suffice to say maintenance helps but the rest is a lot of misinformation there greg, rustproofing makes a big difference if it’s done right.
thats ok im not here to argue. just point out the other side of the coin.
GT
For $80 its certainly not going to do any harm. What do you have to lose
other than $80? Nothing.
What do you have to gain? Well it does work very well, and you can have
some peace of mind driving your car in the winter.
Not everyone wants to coinwash the car in the winter… :lol:
Ok, well what it does is coat the metal on the insides of the body panels, which are normally either bare metal or a thin coating of epoxy etching primer. The idea is to coat the metal in a manner that seals it from air and water, to prevent oxidization (“rust” = iron oxide). If done properly and every square inch of the inside of the unibody on the car is coated, this will keep the car solid and prevent body rot.
The reason Krown prefers to use the oil spray over the rubberized undercoating type, is because it runs and spreads and gets into all the seams and cracks and crevaces, thus effectively sealing the metal. The rubberized stuff is good to run on the bottom of the car as a protective layer, but it’s also good to spray there with the oil.
The reason ‘maintenance’ makes such a big difference on the exterior of the car is because a) washing the car removes the grit/dust particles from the paint, thereby preventing scratches which could potentially go through the clear and expose the body metal to the elements, and b) it removes moisture containing mud and dirt away from the body of the car, thereby preventing oxidization.
I agree, Greg, that the most important thing is to keep the exterior base-clear paint in top condition, by washing it regularly and WAXING it with a good, thick, rub on carnauba wax at least once a month. Any nicks, scratches, chips, etc. should be dealt with accordingly and hastily; and if they become too numerous or extensive, repaint the car. Unfortunately, the insides of the unibody are not painted, and we cannot wax them, so we spray oil inside them instead.
Clear? I didn’t want to start an arguement or a debate is all. It’s a GB thread, not a Technical thread.
Not to throw gas on the fire or anything but, Greg, aren’t you always the one saying if you want it, buy it, if not, dont post…
sorry sir, please don’t ban me. 
Not to throw gas on the fire or anything but, Greg, aren’t you always the one saying if you want it, buy it, if not, dont post…
sorry sir, please don’t ban me. [/quote]
Nobody cares, get on topic.
WHO WANTS UNDERCOATING AND RUSTPROOFING FOR CHEAP!?
Rust proofing can help if done right.
Problem is you have to drill holes … and holes = where rust can start from
as for undercoating … good for sound insulation… but tends to cover up problems instead of inhibiting them
Don’t mean to knock on the sale thread either just trying to provide a more complete other side of the coin since greg started it.
It is a proven fact that rust proofing and undercoating will prolong the life of your vehicle (physically). And now is the time to do it. Like Bruce said these chemicals are heat activated and they do work better in the heat instead of the cold.
I don’t drive my 240sx in the winter but I think I will have it done this year anyway. I guess once every few years for is good enough for a car that doesn’t get winter driven.
As for constant washing your car in the winter sometimes that could be a bad idea. Salt doesn’t rust the car alone, it is when it’s mixed with water that it starts to do damage. You could take a car and burry it in salt for 5 years and nothing will happen to it. The minute you put water inside and the salt get moist, that’s when you start getting rust.
My 2 cents = Rust proof and undercoat your car between now and end of August and not in the winter, it works better.
Salt + Humidity = rust
You don’t need liquid water… humidity in the air is enough to activate the oxidation process. And Toronto = humider than fukc!
:werd:
=D>
Mine was oilsprayed every year, sometimes twice a year from brand new. Winter driven twice. The oilspray definitely has helped but someone mentioned that it can cover up problems and this is true.
my frame rails still needed rebuilding in the front, as did the rear section of my rocker panels, despite teh oilspray. Im now finally getting that rear under-spoiler rust as well even though the sprayed that from underneath as well.
I think our cars have some poor designs in terms of certain areas being prone to rust (under spoiler, framerails) but if you were to get a vehicle brand new, and get it oilsprayed AT The dealer before leaving when its brand new and keep re-applying it would work well. Oilspraying a vehicle underneath that is already rusty makes the rust go UP (ie through your floor) as opposed to outward (ie covering a larger area) and the oilspray likely accelerated the rotting of my frame rails im told.
the plastic stuff is better if you apply it when brand new cause it never wears off. My friend used to apply it to new hondas at the dealership, its like line-x ing the bottom of your car. My parents hondas are both 10 years old with over 250 kms each and winter driven every year with absolutely no rust underneath from having that plastic spray applied.
I wish nissan thought of this.