I’ve got updates on a few sites so i figured why not share with the local dudes too right!
I’ll try to keep this thread updated with the current happenings, besides build threads are always fun to read right
Got a new motor, waiting on an apex hg then i’ll toss it in. Was thinking of painting the engine bay but it’s not going to happen. Not worth it for a race car, so i’m just going to clean the bay up and throw the motor back in.
Took the factory wiring out and made a painless wiring harness, it weighs just over 8lbs after being tubed and taped, compared to 40+lbs of the stock harness it was def worth it for the weight alone. Although it was almost 30hours of work and i think we had the harness in and out of the car for fitting and testing like 5 times.
Got origin overfenders from the RR boys and started to terrorize my factory quarters. This is the only way to install overfenders, otherwise its just useless - the tire will compress and hit the factory quarter. I still have to weld in a plate to connect the inner and outer fenders which helps stiffen the unibody as well as obviously not let water and crap in the interior
heres the driver side taped in place:
I sold my volks to renee and am now waiting on 18x9.5 +15 Enkei RPF-1’s for the car, 10.5 +15 in the rear. 70lb weight savings with the wheels alone.
Painted my calipers gold today for fun to keep with the gold styles guy - no more gold wheels = need gold calipers
Will update on engine situation when the hg arrives. Painted the subframe orange today and am waiting on energy suspension bushings, bings subframe aluminum bushings and spl aluminum diff bushings before i put the subframe in. Also have to swap the 4.3gear from Avery into my new S14 housing from Varun with the ATS lsd from my old blown diff. Thats 3 diffs into one WTF!
ill find out if they are iron tommorow i didnt ever think twice about it i just assumed when i got them way back when that they were aluminum and never bothered to find out waht the differences are, other than the obvious
damn i forget the mother fucker i bougth these calipers from but it shows how you really need to do your research all the time and not listen to what people tell you. lesson learnt
what i am about to say is abit off topic, anyways. hey sasha what happened to squenece ??? was there one day, and a few days later i went back and it was gone. what happened ???
as for tires, im running the same tires as i did this year 275F 305R
here are some updates, enigne bay is now painted and the new engine is in with the following changes:
Greddy pullies
Silk Road manifold (header wrapped where I thought it was most crucial)
Apex head gasket
ARP head studs torqued to 87ft lbs
GREX oil filter relocation instead of the taka/earls one I had before. still have to make up all the lines for this to the oil cooler and whatnot.
Also, compared the difference between my JUN flywheel and the stock flywheel, stock was 20lbs give or take, JUN was 9lbs (again, give or take)
thanks for the kind words guys. i’ll post my mosport schedule up as soon as i know it and keep you guys all informed. i’ll be racing at the toronto indy so i expect all you toronto guys to be there!
as for the fuel cell, i do have one. it is used only in endurance races however, to fill my stock tank. the stock s14 fuel tank is honestly placed in pretty much the best position i could think of. it is right below the rear seats and curves to hug the body of the car, and sits above the rear subframe. the only problem with the tank is that in the middle it bends upwards to clear the driveshaft, and this makes for a lot of fuel starvation when there is less than 15L in the tank (hence why I added the fuel cell). I just got some fuel cell foam which is basically foam that acts as a baffle to help sloshing fuel, hopefully it will work well for me and allow me to run for a full hour without chugging.
the best reason to upgrade to a fuel cell is for the saftey factor. the stock fuel tank is mearly 5mm thick plastic. thats IT. no internal bladder, no metal casing on the outside nothing. 5mm of plastic. thankfully though, i dont care about my life, so my car can remain lighter and faster
got a new toy at the shop today
lincoln square wave tig welder, auto balance, high frequency start, all the main important features for welding aluminum well. cant wait to get it hooked up and start to learn how to tig weld!
I’m currently working on some ducting for the radiator, last years ducting was ugly. here is how it stands now. tommorow we will extend the lower part of the radiator out further to meet the intercooler. once the cardboard mockups are finished we will make the peices out of aluminum and fit them to the intercooler (i’ll have to weld on tabs to hold them in place), and seal them with foam tape or even some sort of silicone - most likely foam tape on the rad, and silicone on the intercooler as it is removed far less often
Also, here is a pic of the catch can installed. It fit absolutly perfectly by fluke into this location, it is snug up against the rad support and right beside the rad, they are both aluminum and complement each other very nicely.
As i’ve recently found out with some study the s14 sr’s have built in oil catch cans and drain into the block on their own, hence why i never had a single drop of oil into my dasani bottle catch can this year
but, for a few different reasons i am forced to run my breather into some sort of a container (the fact that i have no constant vaccum source anywhere for example - since the filter is directly on the turbo - and you dont want to give the crank case boost), and bing was generous enough to supply me with this catch can.
if this thing starts to build up with oil then i will know i’ve got a serious problem
You going to want to run vac to that catch can. Not only will oil go in that catch can from crankcase pressure, but the oil will leak past the oil ring due to the crank case pressure = oil buring. You don’t have the PCV valve anymore? Seen you at nissan thrusday, what did you pick up?
normally a turbo engine would have vaccum at any point between the filter and the turbo, as a result of the turbo sucking air through the filter. normally its not that much, maybe 2-3 psi depending on how restrictive the filter is
however, my filter is directly on the turbo so there is nowhere to tap for vaccum. while another 2-3psi of vaccum would be nice to have to suck pressure out of the crank case, the only way to do it would be to use a vaccum pump of some kind, which i dont think woudl be worth it.
i still have my pcv valve hooked up of course, but if that opening in the valve cover isn’t running to vaccum, then it must be running to a container of some sort to gather any oil that comes out!
I was at nissan to pick up a new throw out bearing and pilot bearing
