MSD Individual coils.
i spent about 4 hours prepping the engine bay, and then just shot it with tremclad. it came out very very nice.
i spent about 2 hours prepping the valve cover and just shot it with gold brake caliper paint
you can still heal toe, the small amount of time spent out of vaccum doesnt affect the brake booster as it takes a bit of time before it looses its boostingnessability
thanks guys ill post pics once its all done
why even bother with the brake booster i removed mine 2 years ago…and went with manual brakes for the race track…
the conversion is easy…maybe 2hrs work or so…
hear hear to that.
Sasha just convert to manual, I’m doing it to my car soon.
Andrew.
^^^^
ADAM - I wanted to do a manual brake conversion on my S12, but I couldn’t find a manual master cylinder that would work. Did you just cut down the pushrod? LHD with a top mount turbo manifold is ass and I’d gladly go with manual brakes. I’ve had a ton of manual/drum brake cars, and never minded it.
And so this isn’t a total hijack, your booster usually keeps about one full hard application of the brakes in reserve. That’s why when your car dies, you still have power brakes for a second.
i dont know if im baller enough to be able to handle full manual brakes
I don’t think you’d really notice after a little while.
They’re just harder to lock up. That’s what I liked about them. Easy to modulate brake pressure.
I remember thinking my Cougar was optioned out by the strangest guy. It had manual brakes, but power steering. I was pretty sure I’d much rather have it the other way around.
One panic stop, one cut forehead from where I smacked my face on the windshield made me realize that they do indeed work quite well.
From a guy who I watched run an entire race with just the handbrake, you didn’t seem to mind manual rear brakes 
Then again you don’t run on shitty 15" tires, so locking up is probably not such a big deal.
ill ask adam how his pedal feel is compared to stock and go from there, it would be a good idea to help move the master away from the header
just got the car fired with the new exhaust manifold it sounds almost unfairly amazing
oh man
got it up to temp and gave her a few quick squirts sounds so so so so so so so beautiful
and of course in sandra style she backfired like a dirty slut with a huge flame under hte car that could be seen from everywhere in the shop
thats sweet. i missed following your build up since you stoped posting on sequence garage
re: manual brakes…
1=they feel better than the boosted ones…
2=they are not harder to use than boosted ones…
here is a pic of the install
We ripped out the brake booster and stole the internals.
We machined the internal brake booster pin so that it just fits through the firewall, then we redrilled a new pivot point on the stoke brake pedal to give approximately 10% more mechanical leverage against the master cylinder.
The master cylinder is the stock 7/8 bore. We kept it, since it has enough fluid to operate the current brake system. The only thing that is not known is how much more pedal effort will be needed. I feel that it should work well, given the new pivot point.
We made up a mounting plate (stop sign shape!) that gets mounted to the firewall. This holds the assembly to the firewall and also holds the master cylinder in place as well.
it really was a simple 2hr job…
How did the stock master cylinder work?
My main concern is that feeling when an engine is dead and you have ZERO brakes. I never knew that was simply related just to the booster not having vaccum?
I wonder how my 1 1/16" master cylinder would work
worst comes to worst i can always try it and go back to a booster if it doesnt work out so hot. i think i will try this, thanks for the inspiration adam
Hi Sasha,
the stock MC works fine…as it has enough fluid to work the stock brakes (in my case front z32 4 pot brakes and stock s13 rear calipers)
all you have to do is redrill the brake pedal pivot point so that you can exert more mechanical leverage on it…
if you want come up to ORF one day and test the brake pedal feel of my system…
with race pads on the track 100% its a very nice feeling system, that is non boosted…
PLUS you save the booster weight…and all the heat issues with having it near the turbo…thats why i did it…
what pads do you use? on the turbo s13 i used hawke ht-10’s and on the slower NA s13 us used hawke blues
Adam
im using blues right now with huge ducts and Z32 rear calipers
my main concern is the master is a bit small for the z32’s all around. However, since im taking a lot of weight out of the car and getting much lighter wheels maybe the braking effort wouldnt be that bad?
I would love to try the pedal feel on your car sometime.
the main reason for me to do it would be heat as well, and weight savings is always very nice
I could also suggest downgrading to a smaller booster like from a swift gt, they seem to be compatible but a good 2-3 inches smaller diameter
here are some shots i took with a friends digi slr, they are compressed so they dont look as great but damn i still love it.
once the new brake lines are in its going to be very niceee
also you can see i cleaned up and painted the msd panel a nice flat black it looks really good compared to the scratched up aluminum. god im a ricer.
removed some more weight current estimated weight is 2188lbs
I want to have sexy explosion on it.
PS. I see you are applying a Romaian theme…(Red, Yellow, Blue)
isnt it sorta bad to have you spark plug wires tied together like that?
GT
^^ Probably in the case of stock shitty wires, but im sure those are very insulated high quality so it shouldn’t matter I would guess.
Sasha the motor looks ridiculous, keep it up.
Question, what the heck did you do to your koyo filler neck?
the rad cap kept popping off so i said screw it im going circle track styles and got a neck and cap for 30$ from grisedale in hamilton shipped. circle track stuff is so cheap its awesome
then i had radim from metalex tig it in
turns out my rad cap was leaking from headgasket seepage not rad cap failure, although the rad cap wasn’t on that well because the koyos thin aluminum that holds the rad cap in place was all bent and stuff, they aren’t the best design.
greg what i think i’ll do is mount an msd at each corner of the engine bay so they are as far away as possible and then run wires into the engine from there, that way they arent close to each other at all
im going to assume you are just being scarcastic…
all i mean was you might be better using a propper loom spacer to get it set up… even with a good wire such as an msd… having wires bundled together like that can still cause poor spark…
GT