I need some new rubber bushing on my subframe , i might as well replace it but I was wondering if I could just replace it with a S14 subfame?
Does it just bolt up to the S13 rear end, other then changing the diff?
thank you…
i’d skip it. not 100% sure but the toe arms are different, the RUCA is different, the diff is different…
it’s hard to mix and match certain parts and some of the difference above make the bolts different. for example you cannot use S13 differential bolts (the 2 big ones at the front) in an S14 diff and vice versa. Bunch of minor issues off the bat and down the road with sourcing insignificant parts will cause a bit fo a hassle.
just pick up an S13 subframe and put solid bushings in it.
Get subframe collars - http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/partdetails/Megan_Racing/Suspension/Bushings/Subframe_Collars_for/12315
honestly, the trouble of putting a s14 subframe in is crazy, your probably better paying what 200.00 for a complete jdm subframe from an importer, diff brakes,shafts, you know . everything…and the bushing will be more or less really low km. skip out on the s14.
s15 into s13 is easier than s14 into s13
ummm… i have them in stock and cheaper…
francis… if you want a subframe i have an extra one.
Would you explain how? Both require the same amount of work.
Both require slotted subframe bushings. (buy from i forget who for like 200$ or custom make).
If you get aftermarket s13/s14 traction arms, toe arms, camber arms, all you need are LCAs (which you can use s14 or s15).
The s14 subframe has less anti-squat and not THAT much of a different toe curve.
The S15 subframe on the other hand is the best yes, it’s reinforced, braced, has less anti-squat, slightly better positioned arms. That is all.
The s14 and s15 subframe otherwise are very similar.
S13 sucks though, but i can be tuned with solid subframe bushings and some inserts to dial out anti-squat.
I wanted to do an s15 conversion but meh, down the line I will… for now non-hicas s13 subframe with solid subframe bushings will do.
Only advantage from a performance perspective, the diff is a direct bolt on, without bushings on the s13… bad for NVH but good or less wheel hop/etc… while the s14 and s15 subframes have diff bushings
google s15 subframe s13
then google s14 subframe s13
I have a s14 subframe on my s13 was worth it in my opinion.
jesus… its all the same shit…
with adjustable arms and solid bushings in an S13 you can counter any advantage in any other subframe… so unless you do the S15 with the whole driveline and diff there is no significant reason to do it
if you have a complete S14 subframe it’s actually a really easy swap. you don’t need the offset bushings for the rear 2 mounts, but it wouldn’t hurt. you can just jack the back end up and it will fit onto the studs as long as you don’t have solid bushings. you can even still use subframe collars with it.
if you have a full subframe with arms, diff, e-brake cables, etc. everything bolts up. IIRC the only thing you have to change is the upper control arms, you need S13 ones which will bolt right on. the S14 upper control arms will hit the S13 strut.
what is the length of the s13 rear subframe from front subframe bushing to rear?
Lets not forget you lose all of your exhaust hangers.
Reviving this thread because i can.
Winters coming, so ill have time in my hands.
asside from the minor mounting issue, why wouldnt it be a good idea to go s14 subframe?
iirc the s14 has a wider track which would be desirable on the track.
yes/no?
Pretty sure it’s the same track width… or at least very close. I haven’t measured but my eyeball says wheels fit the same with both.
Pros:
-usually in better condition rust wise than an S13 subframe
-diff is mounted with bushings so it’s quieter
Cons:
-diff is mounted with bushings, some people like the extra noise
-can’t use regular solid subframe bushings
-lose 2 exhaust hangers
Pros:
- Cleaner
- VLSD if you have a open diff s13
- As brendan the master said bushing mount
- Wider track ( 4-5 mm wider)
- 5 bolt (if full assembly from 5 bolt car)
- 4 bolts onto chassis, 4 bolts on driveshaft. done.
Cons:
- Wider track - pay $$ for solid offset bushings
- Exhaust hangers gone
s14 = s15 subframe minus the fact that s15 subframe and LCA are braced better.
Apart from being wider they have changed/better geometry mounting points supposedly…
You can utilize aftermarket s13/s14 traction arms/toe arms, however RUCA has to be s13 and LCA has to be s14/s15.
Touge factory sells the offset bushings.
I’ll do it eventually… for now solid bushings and s13 subframe will suffice.
Oh yeah and as mentioned s14/s15 diff has bushings while s13 is direct (more noise/less slack-better performance – get solid diff bushings as well)
Damn this is old…
And you can be a cheap ass and half ass it by just jamming and filling the rubber bushings by bending them… like option video but that’s just gay imo.
Why would you have to use s13 RUCA ??
You wouldn’t be able to use S13 toe arms.
Link?? Can’t find on the site.
yes s13 rounded rucas, or spl’s s13/s14 rucas (they have an arc style like s14 but made in such a way that it works on both)
I recall kuah telling me u can use the s13 toe arms but they require some kind of spacer as the arm is wider (been a while forgive me… i’d have to dig it up). I have his toe arms anyways which are also ‘s13/s14’… and i do remember having some spacers left over i suppose it was when fitting to an s14.
And uh oh… i was just a while back on tougefactory.com looks like they are no longer on the site. Email them.
The shock doesn’t mount in a different spot when using a different subframe. An S13 RUCA should be perfectly fine.