School me on some 3000GT info

its ok, they are contributing, and the info is helping me out, regardless of my original questions, tho i still would like to know a bit more about the engine lol

http://www.team3s.com/

http://www.club3g.com/forum/showthread.php?t=12163

http://www.stealth316.com/0-frames.htm

http://www.3si.org/forum/

those should be helpful links, the only things i can think of with these motors, is the popular spun bering mods, the fact that IMO there worthless to TT becasue of 10.0:1 compression, and they are notorious for being over rated as far as power from the factory.

Did you even read post #32 from me? I know I told you to PM me with any more questions and I believe IKSHO89 gave you his phone number…

ANYWAY

I still have the window sticker for my 93 TT…said gas mileage was 19-25. The non turbo is probably a little better then that, though keep in mind the car takes premium gas. From my 5 years of ownership with the NA and TT models I remember being in the low 20’s for MPG.

These cars require 60k and 120k maintenence to be done. This includes, plugs, wires, timing belt, water pump, pully tensioners, etc. I believe that you can get all the parts for around $400-500. The cost to install this stuff is around the same if you can find a good 3S guy to do it. So you’re looking at about $1000 every 60k to maintain the car. My stock clutch on the turbo model lasted me about 70k and the car wasn’t stock. I was over 70k in mileage on the NA and the clutch had NOT been replaced yet. I knew another guy who had an NA and replaced the clutch at about 80-90k, but he kinds sucked at stick lol. Basic maintenence on the NA car and you’ll get a lot of mileage out of it. Nothing to worry about. Spun berings happen on the TT cars, but it’s never anything that I had to worry about. If you’re looking for a nice daily with little maintenence, get the Non turbo. Sounds right for you. The turbo models are more expensive to maintain and more things can break in a turbo model. The transmissions had issues with carrier bearings for the drive shaft and other general issues that needed to be addressed. It’s like they weren’t really built to be beat on as much as an EVO. Again, unless you’re dropping the clutch from stop lights it wont be an issue…or shouldn’t be.93+ turbo models were built with a stronger crank and a 4 bolt main instead of 2. Probably not worth worrying about unless you’re modding, but I personally would only buy a 93+ for a turbo model.

A good turbo model car should cost you about 10k-12k. (good condition Turbo 70k miles)
A good NA car should cost about half that. (Good condition NA with 70k miles should be around 6-7k)

if you want a na 3k, then why not just keep your eclipse? the eclipse will get better gas mileage, will cost less to maintain and you already know everything that is on the car and was has been fixed etc. are you basically just wanting to get rid of your car for a manual?

yeah chris I’d help ya do the 120K on it, and anything else for that matter, I’ve been through hell and back with mine, I think you should get it as far as local 3’s that has got to be the cleanest.

heavy, slow AND unreliable.

That part is inaccurate.

As I previously stated, my brother did little to no maintenance to his and it ran great for three years. He hasn’t done any mods to it. Just drove it.

It’s been exceptionally reliably considering the lack of maintenance.

I can only imagine how long the car would continue to run, had he actually done the maintenance.

there should be a rule on this forum for threads like this. if you havent owned one of the cars being asked about, dont post up your inexperienced opinions.

i had a 94 SL with a ton of miles on it. didnt have to replace much until the crank angle sensor died, and i let the dealer take care of it for 800 dollars. dont do that. my NA with intake / exhaust pulled stock Tsi’s all day. if you can find a low mileage one, theyre fairly reliable.

as for TT’s, my brother has a 93 tt and they are more problematic, but much more fun as well. a mild modded TT will be a lot more fun, but be prepared for more repairs and keep an eye on the transfer cases. they all leak.

as for 3/s > 300zx, i beg to differ. having owned both, i would much rather have my Z. theyre a lot more fun and have much better aftermarket parts support. mine in particular was MUCH more reliable. i dont think it broke down on me once.

i had a 92 stealth a few years back. it had the sohc engine in it. bought the thing with like 110k on it. drove it for a year or so. did not have to put any money into it. sold it for the same price i bought it for. the only problem i ever had with the car was the ecu. i believe one of the relays was fried which i read was a common problem. this in turn cuased a misfire and poor idle. i was told by the po that he had it replaced once before. this was a pain in the ass and was the big factor for me selling the car, which i regret very much.

i think these cars look awesome. i wish the vr4’s weren’t so costly. would love to pick one of those up. i used mine as a dd and never had any problems. try to find a low milage one and try not to pay out the ass for one. i know i wish i still had mine. good luck on the search.

quick word: the diff between the 6 speeds and 5 speed vr4’s are like day and night

definately get a late 93 or a 94 adwtt/vr4 and up. the earlier ones had two bolt mains and a shitty ass 17 spline output shaft. the later ones went to four bolt mains and a 25 spline.

ur welcome to take my 94 base 3000gt (same dohc engine as the sl) out if it’ll help your decision. As far as maintenance goes its the same as every car and if your the slightest bit mechanically inclined you’ll be fine. Mine has 138k on the clock as of last week and i’ve seen some go well past the 200k point, it just depends on how well they’re taken care of. Valve seals are relatively common but arent too bad to replace.

said car on the lot was repainted. over rust so body work was not previously done. was also told it was a vr4.