Shadys Z31 - GlowShift Jigga What?

[82exp]

nice mang

[Singh1]

nice work bitch

[bennyfizzle]

You should definitely run 12 lbs WITH detonation, much better.

[K20power]

@BENNYFIZZLE

You should definitely run 12 lbs WITH detonation, much better.

+1

[Boxersix]

@Shady

So I got the heads clean due to Boxersix’s infinite wisdom :banana

Used some Permetex Spray Gasket Remover and there pretty clean, still need a little hand scrubbing.

Ill Post pictures later when I’m not so lazy

Ah I see you went that route and got it done quite well. That stuff works pretty good huh ;D It’s a cheap and effective cleaner for that crap when doing a simple headgasket R&R adn don’t have the time/$$$ to have a head cleaned at the machine shop. Not everything needs to be brought to the machine shop and tossed in the jet wash, and personally it saves me from getting a bath every time I use the damn thing(rinse mode get’s you soaked :))

[Shady]

@Boxersix

Ah I see you went that route and got it done quite well. That stuff works pretty good huh ;D It’s a cheap and effective cleaner for that crap when doing a simple headgasket R&R adn don’t have the time/$$$ to have a head cleaned at the machine shop. Not everything needs to be brought to the machine shop and tossed in the jet wash, and personally it saves me from getting a bath every time I use the damn thing(rinse mode get’s you soaked :))

Haha, well I’ll probably give you a call tommorow so I can have you check the heads to make sure everything is good.

The one head still needs a little TLC but the other one came out really good… A lot better than they were before ;D Thanks again adam!

Before:

After:

[kramerbuccs24]

I don’t see a difference :confused

:ninja

looks great, dude ;D

[ninety1two40]

clean!!

[Shady]

Oh and boxer, it was literaly, spray on, bubbled for like 2 seconds, and wiped right off

and your right, the shit does burn when it gets on your skin!!!

[K20power]

CLEANNN, SO CLEAN!

[Shady]

So, I was looking around and found a company that will make a stroker kit and set me up to a 3.6L looking at about $2500 for this

I could also go another route…

Buy a VG33 out of a Nissan pathfinder and have it stroked to a 4.1L… Safe for street use but exsessive beatings at the track and high revs could result in a hole in the block

prolly looking at about 5gs for that

[bennyfizzle]

Better route:

SR20 swap. Cheaper, lighter, better aftermarket, better reliability, unique to the Z31.

[Shady]

@BENNYFIZZLE

Better route:

SR20 swap. Cheaper, lighter, better aftermarket, better reliability, unique to the Z31.

SR20’s in a Z31 has been done, motor is way to small for the car.

VG30 can crank out more power with less than an SR20 ;D

althou yes an SR20 does have more aftermarket

[bennyfizzle]

and lighter. and cheaper in the long run.

just saying :ssh

motor, tranny, fabbed in, with a 3076…plenty of motor for that car.

[Shady]

The SR20 is only 80lbs lighter than my VG :tong

And I stripped a lot of shit off, so its probably even closer now.

[bennyfizzle]

um 80lbs is a shit ton off the front axle.

[Shady]

@BENNYFIZZLE

um 80lbs is a shit ton off the front axle.

My Z’s weight dist is almost dead even… so not fucking with that to much is prolly a good thing

[NedZ32]

@Shady

So, I was looking around and found a company that will make a stroker kit and set me up to a 3.6L looking at about $2500 for this

I could also go another route…

Buy a VG33 out of a Nissan pathfinder and have it stroked to a 4.1L… Safe for street use but exsessive beatings at the track and high revs could result in a hole in the block

prolly looking at about 5gs for that

or VG30DETT swap? :ponder

[Johawk]

I say go with the VG33 short block. I don’t know much about these engines but you may be able to use the VG33 crank with VG30 pistons and rods. I’m all about building on a budget. I highly suggest ARP rod bolts with stock rods as the rod bolts are usually the weak point in stock reciprocating assemblies. I would rather swap in a cheaper motor than spend so much money on displacement. Spend your money elsewhere. A pathfinder short block is cheap and easy to find if you do blow it up. You wont be out of $2,500 and a running car if something were to happen.

[Shady]

@Johawk

I say go with the VG33 short block. I don’t know much about these engines but you may be able to use the VG33 crank with VG30 pistons and rods. I’m all about building on a budget. I highly suggest ARP rod bolts with stock rods as the rod bolts are usually the weak point in stock reciprocating assemblies. I would rather swap in a cheaper motor than spend so much money on displacement. Spend your money elsewhere. A pathfinder short block is cheap and easy to find if you do blow it up. You wont be out of $2,500 and a running car if something were to happen.

Very true…

But a VG33 bored out to a 4.1L omg that would be sweeeet…

But really 2500 to set up my 3.0 to a 3.6 is pretty cheap comapred to a lot of other strokers for other motors.

This isnt something im doing this winter, just something im pondering on for a later build :tong

And the VG’s usualy fail at the pistons before anything else, pistons melt before rods break :ohnoes