No not yet…
Got to be able to turn off the rice!
I will be getting a new hood and front bumber cover someday.
Car won’t start? Loaded a stock p72 map with Crome and my Ostrich and have 240cc injectors installed. Starter is running fine, sounds strong and volts are right up at 14. Fuel pressure is 90psi, I checked spark, I have 10psi of oil pressure while cranking (which I know doesn’t effect it starting). I pulled the number 1 and 3 spark plugs and don’t smell fuel. I am thinking my injectors aren’t opening. So I checked voltage at the injector plug which did say I had a signal. What do you guys think? Next step after consulting NYspeed is to install the 1000cc injectors and see what happens??
I also tried rotating the distributor a few degrees in both directions. I have another ECU so maybe I will swap that before I swap injectors…
Still need ideas!
You could always pull the injectors out, and hold one up to the fuel rail (pointing into container) and have someone fire the engine up. Obviously you would be able to see a stream of fuel if the injectors were firing. It’s unorthodox, and COULD be messy, but it works. Actually, you would need to hold all of them in the rail.
I thought about trying that, then thought about not doing that. There is no signs of fuel in my cylinders. Im about certain the injectors aren’t opening. The 240’s should be Saturated, correct? I will check them vs. a Ohm meter tonight. They should read around 12 Ohms if saturated, if they are around 2-3 then I have the wrong injectors.
might be too high of base pressure that the injectors cant handle it
I was thinking that but then read how tuners were getting more flow out of injectors buy upping the pressure?
Well I was going to try the larger ones but then this - My harness doesn’t plug into the new injectors…why?
Got stuck there so I made the lines for the WG
God that’s gorgeous… what size line are you using for the WG/boost controller lines?
Thanks, -4
I just thought of something… I haven’t been grounding my test connector while writing to the ECU. I cant remember if that’s necessary or not? The check engine light comes on with key on then turns off, meaning the light works, and its not throwing a code. If the light came on and stayed on that would mean bad ECU. Im 90% sure the ECU is getting the map I am sending it b/c when I “read” from the ECU I am getting the map I “wrote”. I just don’t know how to tell if the ECU is working…?
Im going to put back the stock injectors and try the other ECU.
aftermarket injectors like ID can handle the high pressures (which is one of the reasons they are great)
just buy the injector jumper plugs if you want a plug and play solution otherwise you should have ordered the plugs with the injectors
Yes I know this, that’s why I bought the higher pressure regulator. You can see in the pix that I do have the jumpers… Just talked to the company I bought them from and all that needs to be done is to remove the little plastic peace in the center. I could have figured that out but they are sold as plug and play for OBD1, not plug and play after you modify them. They looked like OBD2 connection to me which is what had me scratching my head and second guessing what I had for a engine harness.
So I cut the part out and it all works now.
Car still won’t start, Still no signs of fuel, Swapped ECU’s no change.
Maybe I missed it but have you even checked the fuel pump? Make sure all of your wiring is there, no blown fuses, etc. May need to start further back in the line of fuel before the injectors.
You missed it. I can also hear both pumps running, I have 90psi after both pumps and fuel dumped out of the rail when I swapped injectors.
After swapping ECUs last night I tried starting the car with no luck, I then checked for cods by grounding my services connector and got a solid cell, that’s when I quit for the night. Then I watched Moats how to on Youtube.com and found something I might have missed while writing to my ECU, but that doest explain why my stock ECU didn’t work.
Need more ideas!
sounds like something either with the ecu or the wiring for the injectors, good luck with it man, im sure its something simple
I don’t think it’s the wiring, it’s the same harness I used last year and nothing has changed. Going to reflash my ECU and see what happens. Worst case I’ll let J-K Tuning figure it out! I might have him send me up a ECU that he knows works that has Neptune loaded with a basic map to get me going.
i dont know a damn thing about hondas, but i like this. nice work.
Thanks, I was a truck guy back in the day… had a slammed Hombre then bought a S10 Extreme. I always wanted to bag it and swap a 350 in, never happen! Your truck makes be want to re visit that goal.
I printed off the Honda trouble shooting pages out of Hondas service manual. I thought I had it figured out a few times but didn’t. They pointed to the main relay which my car doesn’t use anymore due to the race harness. Then Honda pointed at the back up fuse (7.5A) in the under hood fuse box, which I didn’t have installed so I thought that would do it… not so much. I messed with crome and loading different maps but no change. Getting pretty frustrating. So the next thing is to send my ECU to the tuner, have him make sure its working, load a map and go from there.
maybe try undoing the charge piping at the TB? just a thought…if you haven’t tried.