Will probably be looking for a crank if anyone knows or sees one around for sale.
LS or GSR, but GSR would be my first choice
damn man, i was just talking to john and he told me, dont worry that should be an easy fix if you caught it quick 
New crank on its way… just need to find some rods/ a rod.
What’s this about the stock Wiseco piston pins not holding up? I’m looking into their Heavy Duty ones
Round 3… 3rd times a charm?
fuuuuuuuuck. Sorry man, stay in it!
ah shit dude! sorry about the bad luck, stay with it though. you’ll get everything sorted out! I’d give you a crank if I had one that would work, all i have is a B16a crank heh. good luck and keep everyone posted.
Thanks guys. Ill stick with it, just a lot going on with the rest of my life, dont have the time or cash I use to.
Found a new crank, hopfully the one thats in it can be used again.
Well here are some pix, took them might as well post them
looks awesome, John said you were a cool dude and the car was really nice
wiseco standard pins are known to be bad around 600+hp, ive yet to see them bend/break but it has happened which is why people recommend the hd pins which arent that expensive
hopefully you could have the crank cut and get oversized bearings? ehh you’ll figure it out :tup:
aw man, sorry to hear…stick with it, you will figure it out
Pulled the valve cover and the pan last night. First thing I noticed was this milky looking oil water mix? Then after the pan was off… looks like 3 out of the 4 rods got real hot? What do you guys think happend? I will be pulling the head off this weekend… What should I be looking for?
Seems like a bit of water present? If the head gasket leaked there should be sings inside and out but there isn’t any, how else would water get into the oil?
oooh man, looks like blown headgasket or something is leaking/wrong
that oil pan is a sad sight 
Cracked block or head? if the gasket didn’t fail I mean
Is your turbo both water cooled and oil cooled?
Will find out… hope not
Yes both… why, what are you thinking? The water cools the oil lubes
Something just accrued to me… I removed the stock oil cooler to run the bigger after market one. I over tightened one of the ends and stripped it. Decided to run the car with out it but never put the original oil cooler back on. So I am still thinking the oil just got to hot.
If there is some sort of hairline crack in the center housing of the turbo the oil and water could mix.
PS: if you are in need of a different oil cooler I have a 7"x8" oil cooler with a 7" SPAL electric fan. cooler has about 2000miles on it fan is BNIB…its for sale in the classifieds section
I will examine the turbo… good thought. I’ll check out the cooler, thanks. I will need one probably just have the one I have fixed. But adding a fan to it is a great idea!
So Im thinking about selling my Skunk2 Pro1 cams so I can buy parts to get this running again. If anyone is interested let me know… thinking the $400 range is far. They have 8-10 dyno pulls on them.
http://www.nyspeed.com/showthread.php?165255-Skunk2-Pro-1-Camshafts-B-Series&p=2358906#post2358906
The lack of an oil cooler did not cause that. Most Honda engines don’t have one, including mine and have no problem making big power without one.
Im thinking your rod bearing clearances were too tight or your head gasket did not seal causing the oil/water to mix and killed your lubrication.
head could be warped?
Will I be able to tell if the head gasket didn’t seal?
What should my rod bearing clearance be? I still have to find my build sheet to know what they were set to
Sometimes if the HG is really bad you will see discoloration or it be F’d up where it blew out. But Ive replaced bad HGs that looked completely fine too.
When I assembled my GSR engine all my rod bearings were at .0015".
And mains were between .0015 and .0019". All OEM specs. I mixed OEM and ACL bearings.