I know we used at least OEM specs… no way we would have gone tighter. I will have to ask what bearings were used.
well, as far as I know, the bearings have to be matched in size to the crank. Usually you use a special tool to confirm that you have the correct sizes and that you are at an acceptable tolerance.
so with that said, just grabbing OEM parts isn’t enough. They need to be double checked. I think most builders would do that, but it’s not a guarantee.
Honda OEM bearings are color coded and the original codes are stamped on the block/crank. Technically you could replace “colors” assuming the parts did not change (crank/rods) however I would never do that. But when using aftermarket rods and probably a different crank too all that goes out the window. If a builder did that without measuring I would be absolutely disgusted.
I don’t know what kind of reputation the builder has, but you just never know with some of these guys.
Yes you are correct, my engine builder has been building engines for over 30 years… he’s older and slower but does great work. Granted this is his first experiences with a Honda motor but all engine building techniques are the same. We talked about what this engine would see for RPM’s and boost pressures. What we did decide to do was grind the crank to fit all the same size bearings. I haven’t heard back from him but this will be looked into. Id love to blame someone other then myself but I just cant, I don’t know what happened yet. Right now I would like to know what happened so I can fix it and make sure it doesn’t happen again.
New crank should be here next week
New H-beam rods on their way. Wanted to raise the compression but I just can afford new pistons. I’ll be ordering a new oil pump and the Wiseco HD piston pins
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LS sleeved block, Stock GSR crank, Eagle rods, Z10 main plate…So yea OEM specs went out the window, I know he did it right… But I know what you guys are saying. I am hopeing its not the block, I dont really know much about it. Maybe the sleeves sank?
Usually if there are oiling issues the rods go first. Being discolored like that, the rods are def out of round. The crank journals maybe, maybe not be. So if you caught it soon enough the mains will be OK. Who did the sleeving?
The block was done my Z10… I will use the better of the two cranks. The other one will be built into a stock spec NA B18 build. I have just about all parts needed to put a engine together.
Should know more this weekend
do not cut honda cranks… it just never ends up good
use a stock uncut crank and use the appropriate bearings from honda to get the clearances you want
2nd that. I always searched out a uncut crank for my builds.
Why not?
Pulled the head off today. Head gasket looks ok to me.
This was the only thing that looked strange? Looks like burnt water?
1 and 2
3
4
.
ooks to me like a gasket failure to me. or crack in head/block. you do not get coolant in there unless something is wrong. have you taken the head off after installing it on the same gasket every? what was the torque you used with the head studs? the bearing failure is from water and oil mixing. you cooked the bearings from lack of lub. from the looks of it had it was cooking for more then one run.
and i agree with the never used a cut honda crank ever. they are forged nitrated and polished from the factory cuting only messes them up. also was the block bore aligned after the z10 crank girdle was installed?
was the crank end play inspected?
---------- Post added at 04:47 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:41 PM ----------
oh also what head gasket did you use? and a trick I always do for peace of mind and a little security is to copper spray the gasket pretty good have never had a gasket problem.
Head gasket failure? or what other gasket? where else would water get in? If water was getting in wouldn’t that mean oil could get out? When I drained the coolant which was water and waterweter mix, it was clean. No signs of oil that I noticed.
I haven’t seen any cracks, where should I look/ is there a common area or known weak spot?
New head gasket first time used.
Head studs were tongued to ARP specs… like 86lbs IIRC?
I agree it was more then one run… it was at least two… we noticed after the last few pulls the car would shut down…
The block was line bored after the girdle, I’ll Ask about the end play but like I said Im not doubting the builder.
Can someone find me a good read/ thread with this “never cut a Honda crank” talk. I have looked and haven’t found the “because why” answer yet… Not that I don’t believe it I just want to see the why for myself and have a intelligent conversation with my engine guy. I cant go in saying cuz “it always ends bad” or “it messes them up” lol
What’s the difference cutting a Honda crank vs a 350 Chevy’s crank?
Thanks for the tip, I’ll try that… it was a Golden Eagle HD
the oem crank has a coating on it, once you cut that coating off from some reason the bearings will fail no matter how good the clearances are, it has to have something to do with the type of metal
with how cheap they are I dont even question it and I will run a new crank
especially with ls cranks being a dime a dozen and CHEAP
I have a uncut crank on its way… Now the first build we did to Honda spec with their color coded bearings and didn’t have a problem till a valve let go, then this build we used the same crank but in a LS block and for some reason the builder wanted to use all the same bearings and we talked about cutting and all, I agreed. I’ll ask again what his 30 plus years of being a performance engine builder and turbine design engineer says about this coating! So which is it no magic coating causes bearing failure or that water some how got into the oil system? or both?
One observation that I might not have mentioned is that before I left for tuning I checked the oil level then after we noticed a problem after 3 plus hrs on the dyno we checked the oil again and it was at the same level. So yes I noticed water but it wasn’t like holey shit look at the water…
What’s the deal with these oil pumps? I re used the same pump from the last build, it had less then 200 miles on it and I took it apart checked it to Hondas specs and cleaned it. Why are people so set on replacing them? Yea yea peace of mind right
honda b series pumps don’t fail unless they have crap go thru them. you might have starved the bottom end with running it thru to many things. like a non oem oil cooler. and then running a turbo could put a strain on it more the cooler then the turbo though. and as far as the crank cuttting it seems to be they eat bearings after that due to the finish not being as good as the factory. I would use a oem gasket next time with copper spray.
the crack I was thinking of could be in the head somewhere did you have it checked out? and yes the idea of a sleeve sinking could be a nice thing to check out.wouldn’t take very much.
the crack in the turbo housing is out there but worth checking into.
No oil cooler was used, Dont think it was the turbo and I ran a large cooler and larger turbo last time with out this. No I didnt have the head checked out, it came off saterday. If you mean befor then yea… I will ask him to look at the sleeves. Its not the turbo
just check the head and block to make sure they are true
use the good oem crank
go and buy indian head gasket shalack (autozone) and use that instead of copper spray
84mm HG at Autozone?