SHREK - Starting over

nope, no hg options except GE ls/vtec 84mm

I love this build. Sorry for the mishap man and trust me my car blew up all season I know how tough it is. Good luck on the new setup.

I believe he is referring to a different spray instead of copper

Thanks, good to hear I’m not the only one to have bad luck…

Ok, I didnt get what he was saying the first time around. I dont think there’s an issue with the head or it sealing but I might still try the spray.

Did you get the bearing clearances from the builder yet?

No. I will post it once I find it. I haven’t even looked. I have a lot going on right now… same old story but man this really needed to work this time…

So if anyone wants to buy this whole set up…I mean everything its for sale

Truck - 96 Chevy 350 with 125K… I paid 3500
Trailer - 03 18 foot deck, tool box and wench… I paid 3000
Car -You all know what it is and seen the parts list with prices… which needs to be updated to add Neptune RTP
All the parts I have go with… two extra blocks, and a whole bunch of extra parts
plus the new parts that aren’t here yet, new (used) crank, new rods…

Just got to put it back together this winter and run 10s in spring!

Best Offer

Don’t give up!

Is the oil filter relocation kit new this year?

It looks like dirt from assembly or contamination went through the bearings. Based on the pics of the bearings you have posted it looks like a couple of things.

  1. Check the bearing caps for signs of overheating. This will look like discoloration. If you are not sure what you are looking at, search google for heat discoloration on rods.

  2. Depending on the type of assembly lube he used you could have had issues from how long you were cranking it and the oil filter relocation in respects to priming. Oil is picked up at the pump, sent down the main galley first then through the filter where it enters the main galley for the crank… You have it trying to pump all the way through the oil lines and filter. It is possible that you did not fill enough oil or that you could have had dirt or debris in the lines. The scoring on the bearings indicate dirt from assembly. Did you blow or clean out the lines before you installed them? If not this could be a huge part of your problem. I would check the crank oil galley holes no doubt they will be packed full of metal but check for signs of black rubber which could have restricted oil flow to begin with.

  3. If there was a problem with water entering the combustion chamber you would have seen it in the exhaust and the cylinder effected would have looked steam cleaned. No evidence of that here.

  4. If the crank was line bored the pump can be finicky when installed because you changed the center line of the crank but not the relationship of the pump. The pump still bolts on in one spot and now that the crank is effectively moved higher in the block you could be pre-loading one side of the pump causing issues. Remove the back plate and look to see if the outer gear was wiping the aluminum cover, also check the inner gear for cracks.

  5. If your builders shop was dirty, at all, then the chances for contamination are great. I wouldn’t have built that engine in the garage you were working in, even though it was fairly clean, it wasn’t clean enough, get my drift.

http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa271/shrekb18/newshrek/trailer.jpg?t=1276259433

2005 18FT. BRI-MAR CAR TRAILER GVWR/PNVB 7000, DOVE TAIL WITH SLIDE OUT RAMPS. FULL SOLID STEEL DIAMOND PLATE DECKING. HAS RADIAL TIRES LIKE NEW. ELECTRIC BRAKES. HAS A LOCK STORAGE BOX, WARN 8000LB WINCH WITH REMOTE CONTROL LIKE NEW,100FT CABLE ,QUICK DISCONNECT POWER CABLE, DUFFLE BAG WITH A SET OF MACS RATCHET STRAPS HD 6FT, 4 AXLE STRAPS[/QUOTE]

I’m stretched out to thin. I wont bore you guys with the details… just cant afford to play right now

---------- Post added at 11:37 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:25 AM ----------

Some good stuff to look into… thanks… I am taking the block to the builder tonight and will bring up some of these points!
I did crank the shit out of this thing trying to get it to start, and yea there was no way to keep this as clean as I would have liked in the shop I am in. I honestly cant remember cleaning out or blowing out the oil lines for the cooler/ relocation… so there could have been crap in there. The kit was on there last year so its not new. I will bring the oil pump with me for inspection and I will make sure he has the new pump for reassembly!!

Still for sale

NO DONT GIVE UP NOW, Just put it on the back burner and get back into it when you have the resources

Serioulsy. If you need the cash sell the truck and trailer, you can probably get your money back on those. The car is another story. IF you can sell it, you’ll lose your ass on it.

Set it aside for winter and get back to it come spring. again.

Ive been fighting similar issues with my cavalier for YEARS. Dont give in now.

Dan

Yeah man, seriously don’t do it. Sell the truck and trailer and keep the car.

I know exactly where you are coming from though, i’m sure the frustration levels must be through the roof.

JUST REMEMBER, third times a charm!!!

Im not willing to part the car out and I cant move the car with out the truck and trailer so it all needs to go. The problem is no one wants this stuff. Im willing to take a lose but even that price no one will pay… just a shot in the dark. Now if someone had the time and cash and wanted to buy it all then part it all they could probably do all right.

Neptune cost me 400, all the other tuning equipment I have is included and the other chipped ECU. Might throw in my Dell laptop also if buyer wanted it.

Another good thing is once this is back together it should start right up and be able to drive as it as been tuned. The tune is safe to 14psi and the WG spring is 9psi so you could rock that at first and not use the EBC until your back on a dyno.

Well good luck to you. I dont think anyone is gonna buy all this as a package for even half of what you have into it. Especially in pieces.

EDIT: Why do you NEED the trailer? Can you just get it reg’d and inspected and drive it? I dont see anything you’ve done that would limit the cars ability to drive on the street (assuming the motor stays together)

Dan

I’m moving soon, wont have this shop to work in. So along with engine repairs I will have to buy all the tools, jacks and all to get this going. So with all that, plus rent is going up, moving fees… bla bla drama…its just a bad time…

I’ll keep you guys posted. Im sure it will work out! Just sick of spending with no payout

This car is so bad ass, dont let it go! ! !

i got tools and jacks and stands and air compressors… dont let this thing go! Hopefully ill be back in town soon

:frowning:

Oh man Tim, I’ll be sad to see this go up for sale after all the years (6) you put into it and never really getting it complete. Good Luck. Hope you can figure something out.

Sucks man, but sad to say it is part of the game. I myself fell out of modding cars like this and bought a new SUV (4.6is x5) I don’t know what I enjoy more…times when I had a project to work on or now that I don’t…I think you’ll regret it if you ditch this thing now…this is a Magazine car for sure… plus…its so close!!!

Finish it, get a mag, sell it for more money…

As a friend my resources are at your disposal if you so wish to use them. (Garage/Tools/TIG/ Help from me, ETC.)

And I quote from the first post “If at first you don’t succeed…” try try try try again lol