When the first turbo (T67) self destructed… I said its part of the game
When a valve broke and went thru the motor out the exhaust destroying my BNIB GT35R, head and pistons… I said that’s part of the game…
When this motor went after all the effort, time and money… It makes me not like playing anymore.
Well thanks for all the encouragement, and thanks for offering the help and all… I will keep chipping away at this, and see what happens. Dropped the engine off last night, we are going to see what needs to be done and go from there. Im being a bit negative I know, Im trying to find what started this all. The first time Andy let me drive his completely stock GSR, that moment when I understood the advantage in power to weight ratio, the first time I drove my car under boost… Its addicting… I sometimes take the long way to work just so I can jump on the highway and make a quick pull… All I wanted was to drive my car once this year.
Ill stop thinking about the cost and start thinking about the why!!
Going fast and making power can definitely get you down. On June 11th, I launched my car and it cost me almost $4,000. You may want to sit on it and clear your head a little bit, but if you can’t do that, then do what you have to do. I fully understand the need to do whatever is necessary, I have been there and done that, heh.
For you CHEAP… I haven’t made the for sale thread yet… but b/c of my situation the first thing that needs to sell is the car, then the trailer then the truck or all at once lol. like I mentioned Im moving and its not just down the street… so everything needs to go and Ill need the trailer to move the car. Thanks for asking Id sell the car with trailer and you can part out the car!?
On June 11th about 30min before you I launched my car and it cost me $3,500. Expensive night for us.
Then I forget the date but a lil over a month ago I lost a trans at the track $1,500.
There went my winter car lol
Shrek with the time and money you have into it I certainly understand your position. I was considering selling mine off more then once. Once I finished it with the proper parts and ran a 10.9 NA it instantly became worth it. You will share the same feeling once it is sorted. Besides you share the problem a bunch of us have in that you need to build cars. If you sell this at a loss it is only a matter of time till you start something else.
i dont have the spare cash for both but pm me how much u want for it and maybe if its a good enough deal i could give u a deposit on it at agreed price or something???
umm wait a minute. You have a pic showing a solid bearing in your main cap. Do all of your main caps have solid bearings in them? Both upper and lower? IF your crank has crossdrilled main journals you can run one half fully grooved and one half solid bearing, if not, you need fully grooved main bearings top and bottom for every main. The oil that lubes the rod bearings comes from the main bearing journals, thats why they are fully grooved. If you didnt have fully grooved main bearings your going to have rod bearing oil starvation issues, which I think is whats going on here
Ok so both of the two main caps that I pulled off were solid bearings, I don’t know what the tops are. Also the two sets of rod bearing I removed both looked to be solid, should they be? I was trying to find a detailed description of how the crank lube system works but haven’t found one yet. Im pretty sure the GSR crank is crossed drilled so the rods should be getting their oil from the mains thru the crank.
Correct me if I’m wrong, Oil is sent from the pump thru the block into the top of the mains and the hole that should be in the top main bearing lets oil into the crank which then sends oil thru the crank and into the rods? So if the top main bearings don’t have the hole and grove the rods wont get oil?
You are correct. Youd have to pull the other bearing half to see if it had the oil groove in it. Im sure it does, it would be a huge noob mistake not to.
The main caps (bottom) do not have the groove, the top (block) half of the bearing should.
Yea it would be a mistake but it would also explain what happened. We did go over size on the bearings so I think its possible that the wrong ones could have been installed. I will have to contact the builder again. Should the rod bearings have a grove also? Now say the builder did install the wrong ones would it be safe to hold him responsible for this? The question I am asking myself is how did it hold up for 6, 8, 10 pulls before we noticed… would that be possible?
Rod bearings should be solid, yes. Afaik, Each rod bearing gets its oil supply from an adjacent main bearing on a honda, normally there is only one oil hole in each main bearing journal and only one hole in each rod bearing journal on the crank, so even if you have a fully grooved main bearing in the upper bearing half, unless the crank was cross drilled so that one of the oil holes was feeding the crank and rod bearing all the time, you have a recipe for disaster, because the rod bearings would be, in effect, be getting half the oil they needed. I can only guess that the upper bearing half is fully grooved, but even if it is, unless the crank is cross drilled so there are 2 oil holes per main journal feeding the rod journal, youll have problems. If the upper half of the bearing is grooved, AND the crank is cross drilled, then this should not be an issue. There are also oil holes in the rod itself, that squirt oil at the underside of the piston to lube everything, and these need to be installed so the hole is on the intake side of the engine.
Edit: All stock hondas use fully grooved upper and lower halfs in the main bearing area.
Going to check this out personally on Sunday. It’s a GSR crank and I know it is cross drilled. I have a feeling everything will be as it should be. Then I’ll be back to figuring out what happened still.
What temp would oil start failing? Other then the oil pump failing what could cause oil starvation to the rods?
I took the crank out at the machinists shop and nothing else looked out of the ordinary. The upper main bearings were grooved and had the holes. The crank was crossed drilled and clear of debri. Still calling it oil starvation but don’t know if its from to much temp or to less pressure. I will run the oil cooler and am thinking about trying a 20-50 oil… what do you guys think of that? Or maybe a synthetic would hold the wedge better?
