I was running 10w30… I wont be cutting this crank but the crank didnt look bad. Might even send this one out to get plated
I had a similar issue with a honda build but mine didnt last as long. I installed a set of used crower rods and they spec’d fine clearance wise, but they chewed the bearings to garbage in very short order. I suspect in my situation that the caps were mis matched on the big ends of the rods… but you were using fresh rods right? Oil temps would have to be pretty hot, and if you werent starting to overheat on the dyno I dont think it would be an issue, tons of big hp honda guys dont use oil coolers. Do you have any idea what your oil pressures were? Me personally, I run 10w30, I feel that 5w20 or 5w30 is a little on the thin side, but I doubt that switching to 20w50 would have prevented this from happening. I only use 20w50 to buy me some time if a car is burning oil like a fiend or if the oil pressure is not very good with anything lighter weight, which are both signs of internal engine issues anyway.
The rods where re used. they had less then 200 miles on them. My machinist said he used the larger side of Hondas B18 specs. He said he only had to take half a mil on the main journals to get all the bearings the same size.
I tend to think the oil was within operating temps. I just don’t know why or how the pump could have failed? There wasn’t a drop of oil on the ground, how does a gear pump just stop pumping or not keep pressure? I haven’t looked at the relief valve in the pump, would that have anything to do with it?
It could, if it stuck open, you could have very very low oil pressure or none at all. I would def check the pump and the relief valve. Ive heard of oil pumps shattering in high rpm hondas before but who knows if that was the case here. If you take them apart and get a visual youll know. What was the oil pressure on this engine/build normally? Did you have a gauge on it?
I took the back cover off and the gear looked fine. I didn’t check out the spring and piston yet. There is a oil gauge in the car along with oil pan temp, fuel pressure, boost, water and A/F. I wasn’t tuning the car nor was I in the car. I was basically just hanging out watching and trying to stay out of the way. I left the car in the hands of a professional. The 2 or 3 times I had the car running the oil pressure was around 60-70psi… the gauge reads at the remote oil filter location. I tapped that site so I would know the turbo was getting pressure
how high were you revving? Im thinking that the combination of the oil/water/headgasket issue and maybe some kind of oil pressure problem killed it perhaps.
What head gasket issue? The tuner and I checked the oil level at the end… it was the same as when I got there… if there was water worth mentioning that would have been higher level no? If the oil was so diluted the oil would lose its ability to hold a wedge that level would have been higher? All I can do is try again… New pump and oil cooler. Now what do I do differently once its back together. I wont have to go straight to the dyno. My focus was on the A/F’s not the head gasket holding or the oil pump failing. I should have checked the oil level once I was back to the shop, that would have maybe supported the condensation theory. What if this happend again? What would I blame… crank, rods, pump, gasket… they will all be new
PS - I only ever reved the car to 4k, and that was for a sec if that… I reved the car to 2K for 15min to work the cams in. Then the trip to the dyno
my setup lasted around the same amount of time when I had rod issues from re using them, I feel that if you change the crank, rods and make sure everything else is in spec then you should be fine. I wouldnt re use the crank at this point, then you would have ground it 2x. The burn marks around the water jacket on the head gasket and the milky oil in the head strongly suggest a head gasket leak to me, I would def check the head and deck surfaces with a straightedge and feeler gauges to make sure you have no warpage. I doubt that a small amount of water in the oil would raise the oil level on the dipstick noticeably, and some of it will evaporate right off. The only other time ive had oil look like that without a headgasket issue is when the car was started and ran several times without it fully coming up to temp every time. Ive heard of guys running e85 having similar issues but since your not running e85 its not really applicable.
stay with it!
after my drag car was never finished this season. I threw together a hotrod.
First thing that happened was the front seal went on a brand new race rebuild of a turbo 350. I poured the oil in and it started to leak.
Then when I put on the moroso valve covers, the pcv stuck closed, and with the high volume oil pump, i pushed the intake gaskets out (should have used a different set in the front and rear my fault)
2 distributors klater, my timing was still jumping. went to the track and ran a solid second slower than i should have. Then spit the belt off, alone at the track with no tools and spent 2 hrs looking for it, before a nice guy called a bunch of officals and located whoever found it.
this year was rough on everyone, stay with it!
Looking for a B-series fuel rail with FPR… stock!.. Let me know what you have
Trying to throw something together for fun
Here’s the new shop/ mancave!
A quick model to see if both cars would fit…
Had some visiters today
Picked up this OBD0 LS for cheap. Not sure why or what for but… well here it is!
These guys looked as if theyd never seen a B-series before
lol
haha
wtf lol
So this is going to be driven N/A and not boosted anymore?
Yes for now. This is so I don’t have to push the car around and it gives me something to do, no real good point.
at least you’ll get the gratification of driving the damn thing.
Maybe if Jam and Ashort ever send me the parts they said they’d send me.
Best of luck with your new setup man