Oh sorry lol, I was thinking you said you couldn’t find the part, not $.
Got the part # for coil pack boot.
put a vac cap over it and clamp it lol, i used a high compression clamp
Roger…
Anyone know if there are different power steering set ups between the different Evos?
This guys car doesn’t seem to have those cooler lines?
His car looks like it’s missing lots of stuff like abs etc in that pic. I’d guess he just took off the lines you’re having problems with?
Yea he is getting ready to strip the bay for paint. I’m just wondering if his car is a RS and/or if there are different P/S set ups. You can see in the pic that its a complete circuit…
Hey, question for you. When you bought that steamer to remove the tint:
- how much was it, and where did you get it
- how difficult was it to remove the tint?
save the money and just use a razor blade and invisible glass.
Bought from Home depot… online. It was around 30 bucks… The steamer made the job 100X easier. You will still need a razer blade. Its how the pros do it… check out Ralph! You tube - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bpm7v2VJeoM&feature=related
The steam heats the glue which is the trick!
Might be able to rent a steamer for cheap?
Wow this looks alot faster… http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7QzuWh7wM20&NR=1
Have you ever tried it? It’s AWFUL!
- P/s pump
- P/s pump Bracket
- Mount bracket
- Pulley
- Protector
- Reservoir
- Reservoir Insulator
8 ) Reservoir Spacer - Reservoir cap
- Strainer
- Pressure hose
- Ctr return line
- Return tube
- Ctr return tube
- Lwr return hose
- Ctr return hose
- Upr return hose
18 ) Reservoir hose - P/s cooler tube
- Connector tube
- Retainer Type 1
- Retainer Type 2
- Retainer Type 3
- Retainer Type 4
- Clamp
I think I just need to hook 16 into 12 and remove 17, 19 and 25
looking good man, i need to do some more work on mine
did you install the mil spec seals yet? and if so how hard are they to do?
The FPR solenoid adds more fuel pressure on hot startup, and is not needed. You can remove it, run a direct vac line from the manifold to the FPR, and then turn it off in the ECU. It also cleans up the engine bay, reduces the chances for a boost leak, and is lighter :tup:
I picked up a Mil Spec 65mm which already had them in so I didnt have to do it.
Thanks Mark… do you know off hand what its called in the ecu?
This here tells you how to edit the bits table to disable the solenoid.
http://forums.evolutionm.net/ecuflash/392606-disabling-egr-fuel-pressure-solenoids.html
I just looked at, in the ecuflash scroll down to the Periphery section and click on the ECU Periphery2 Hex. Highlight the hex, then on your keyboard use the = sign and type in the value 0x0001, enter. Save, then write to ecu. This will disable the egr, fpr and evap solenoids.
If you don’t have the Periphery2 hex, the newest ecuflash version should have it but just incase, you need to click on rom info and look up what your internal id is then find that rom in the evo xml files, click edit scroll down to the Periphery and copy, paste this.
Copy, paste:
<!-- *** ECU PERIPHERY *** -->
<table name=“ECU Periphery00 Hex” category=“Periphery” address=“f9a” type=“1D” level=“2” scaling=“Hex16”/>
<table name=“ECU Periphery0 Hex” category=“Periphery” address=“faa” type=“1D” level=“2” scaling=“Hex16”/>
<table name=“ECU Periphery1 Hex” category=“Periphery” address=“fba” type=“1D” level=“2” scaling=“Hex16”/>
<table name=“ECU Periphery2 Hex” category=“Periphery” address=“fca” type=“1D” level=“2” scaling=“Hex16”/>
<table name=“ECU Periphery3 Hex” category=“Periphery” address=“fda” type=“1D” level=“2” scaling=“Hex16”/>
<table name=“ECU Periphery4 Hex” category=“Periphery” address=“fea” type=“1D” level=“2” scaling=“Hex16”/>
<scaling name=“blobbits” storagetype=“bloblist” storagebits=“1”>
<data name=“0” value=“00”/>
<data name=“1” value=“01”/>
</scaling>
Save then close make sure ecuflash is closed or changes won’t be made yet.
Thanks… I wont get to this for a few days… I’m sure I’ll have questions.
Just pulled the trigger on a Spoolin Up COP set up!
Cool, it’s a great setup for the price.
i dont think ive ever see anyone use that COP on a high HP car like mine etc. id be interested to see how it performs against buschurs, sparktechs COP.
i wish someone would test it lol
I’m not quite sure what you would need a COP setup for. After seeing Cesna go mid 9’s on the stock motor, with the stock ignition, it just doesn’t seem like it would be needed until you’re going for DEEP into the 9’s.
this too, but i guess for the price vs the DLi unit. it does work out