Picked up this 2000 1500 Silverado last night. Clean truck with zero body rust and only 70kmi on it. 6" suspensions lift, 3" body lift, dump bed, 35" tires. Very pleased with it, needs a little work here and there but nothing crazy and the truck was an absolute steal bought from Dave’s buddy a few hours south of here.
Mods:
-6 inch super lift
-3 inch body lift
-fully built transmission at 55kmi, rear end has a eaton true trac with locker at 65kmi
-maxxis 35 inch tires on 16 inch pro comp rims
-hyper tech programmer
-k&n intake
-custom dump bed
-Alpine radio/cd player with bluetooth
-tinted windows
-uhaul hitch
-AVS vent visors
-Line-x
-keyless entry and remote starter
-back rack
-tow mirrors
-clear corner lights
-firestone air compressor, vair 2.5gal tank, klein air horns, firestone ride rite bags for the rear
Plans-
-Install new headers -came with truck
-probably gonna line-x the rockers and fender flares just for PM since they always seem to rust out, these are very clean and rust free right now
-carpet
-build a custom set of rock sliders/steps and a rear bumper
Towed back with my buddies beastly F250 6.7 turbo diesel. 17.2mpg all the way home.
They do make dump kits you can pretty much buy and bolt on I believe. this one was custom made though.
4x4 is a stick on the floor type, i’ll have to take a look at it. right now it’s a good in 2wd so although it is a priority for me, it’s not a rush to get done either.
Did you see if there’s a driveshaft? Seems stupid to ask but lifted trucks have alignment issues with driveshafts and people take them out. Right now my brothers POS Dodge doesn’t have a front shaft because part of it broke yesterday.
the front driveshaft will always spin regardless of it being engauged in 4wd or not. However if engauged the front and rear shafts should spin at the same speed. PJB is actually correct and the truck still has an electronic actuator in the diff that is probably bad. If you want I have an actuator from a newer truck that you could plug in as a quick check to verify functionality of all the circuits. If i remember correctly the plugs should be the same
I read yesterday that if the 4wd light does not come on the cluster you can jump the wires on the plug that’s for the actuator if the light then comes on it’s the actuator gone bad. I will have to check it. I do not know if the light even comes on or not, I have not tried to put it in 4wd yet. it seems pretty common on these and a cheap fix, so fingers crossed.
Yes you can jumper the signal wire, but that doesn’t dynamically test the power and ground supply circuits to the actuator. That being said it needs and actuator 99% of the time. Some of the older trucks actually require a retro fit kit to the newer style actuator, however I can’t remember where the year break is.
Did a couple quick things today. I will say its pretty nice owning a truck where replacement parts are all 5-10 bucks, I guess that’s the joys of a 14 year old vehicle (unless its an s2k)
-Changed out te driver side rear door outer handle, a new one came w the truck, the one on there was cracked
-got a new plastic piece for the tailgate rod handle and put a new cover on it
-ordered new tailgate straps and a black billet fuel door
-changed out the scull mirror with an oem one
Lol
