That’s what’s in the 79 civic. First off what year(s) was this motor in so i can find a new wiring harness, or just have one made by raywire, boomslang or someone else. The wiring in this car is a mess and i am just goin to start from scratch. What is a good ecu to run? Right now i have the xecron, it’s big and bulky. Frankly i wouldn’t mind going with a aem so i can have ray from turbotek tune it, i’m extremely happy with the tune he put on my lgt.
Second up, i know nothing about honda motors aside form a f20c and f22c, so what do i need to get built if i want to run a turbo at say 10-12 lbs (i’m guessing that should get me 300wheel, please correct me if i’m wrong). What am i looking at paying to get one built like this? I know nothing about this motor and it would probably benefit from someone looking through it for the build quality i’m looking to do on this car.
What else should i look at getting for this motor parts wise. What else can you guys suggest? Should i just pull it and start with something newer like a K20 even though it would require a shitton more work?
10-12 lbs (depending on the turbo) can be and is ran by many on the stock setup indefinitely (recommended new ARP headbolts), however if you want it to last replace rods and pistons.
Hondata is an extremely well supported and documented path to go for fuel management. You can always ask Morgan at Synapse about this matter, he can guide you best.
Stick with the B series, parts are cheap and plenty, plus most are interchangeable through the line. Head can be left alone too, maybe replaced with a stock R head if you want better flow (not really needed for your goals).
Disclaimer: I’ve been out of it for a while, things may have changed an I may be wrong about somethings :ahh
Also lsvtec will never have the correct timing. If I were doing the car, I would ditch the lsv, get a Gsr, or the K20 or K24 is probably the best choice. Clean un fucked B motors are getting hard to find. Get a K24, will be fricken sweet in this little car.
You’re asking noob/NickAlero questions pertaining to “boost”. 15lbs of boost on a HTA86 and 15lbs on a .50 trim are two different things. 15lbs on a K20z1 with it’s 11.0:1 compression vs. that 15lbs on a stock GSR B18c1 is going to produce different power and have different reliability.
The K series motors are pretty strong stock. There’s guys making 500whp+ on stock K20a2/z1’s and K24a2 bottom ends w/ K20a2/z1 heads and are reliable. Shit, my old K20z1 swap in my EG took a 100 shot of nitrous for a LONG time before something happened with the timing in the tune, and even then the bottom end was fine. I did Wiseco pistons and Eagle rods in that and that’s all you’d really need to do to one of those to have it be reliable. Definitely under $1,000 for the pistons & rods, then new bearings and any machine work you’d need to have done. You’d need to factor in the cost of K-Pro as well(~$800) which is a must need for tuning a K series.
Edit:
IMHO, this car would be retarded and almost not even fun with a turbo K series. You said your buddy has a K24 laying around…A K24 bottom end(stock rebuild) with a K20a2(02-04) or K20z1(05-06) head on it, with an RBC intake manifold, header, 2.5" exhaust, K-Pro and if you really wanted to maybe some mild cams & aftermarket valvetrain like Blueprint stage 2’s or something . This car would fucking hammer with that set-up, and be fun as shit at the same time. I was big into the K series a few years ago when I had mine. I would really like to build another car with a K at some point, they’re extremely fun to drive N/A. Murrdog9000 had a K24/K20 coupe that was N/A then he built it and boosted it and I’m pretty sure he’d agree with me that it wasn’t nearly as fun as an N/A K series.
Also, you mentioned going with a K20 because it is “newer”. Don’t think because B series are older that parts for them are hard to come by. There are so many parts for B series motors, but there are also a ton for K series as well.
Another thing to note about going K series is there will most likely be a lot more other work needed to be done to get it in the car. The mounts are different, shifter box/linkage is different, wiring is obviously different. I’m sure someone(or a few people) has/have done a K in one of these older civics, but mounts may be hard to come by unless they’re similar or can be used from another generation civic. Also, axles, they will be different and again I’m not sure about these older civics but you may need to get those made as well.
Quoted for truth and my opinion as well. Car is so damn light that 250NA Hp in this thing is going to fucking rip and have great drivability to boot. Keep weight down and keep the car balanced with nominal power and it’ll probably be the most fun you;ve had in a vehicle ever.
I am a huge fan of, what I dub, “shitbox” cars like this.
You’re right, there is a lot of fab needed to fit a k series. It’s not thy the engine is newer, it’s more of the appeal of a newer ecu, and parts associated with the k series. Keeping the b and making sure it’s well done may e the way to go…
buy my jrsc eaton m62 supercharger kit for a gsr head? this thing would be so jdm old school with supercharged 79. sound would be sweet too
have a bunch of parts and its hooked up and running. will sell trans lsd b16, motor,neptune ecu obd1, fuel setup, jrsc kit, have a big boost kit too 10-11psi, headers. bought the car from a guy on here.