-Car was running N/A, made some piping and used spare I/C
-Car ran fine boosted
DAY AFTER
car dies while cruising, i think i smell something weird
-Take a look in engine bay, MAFS wires are burnt to manifold, i cut and reconnect them EDIT: The wires were resting on the exaust manifold, they litterly burnt up on the manifold.
-Car still doesnt start, i trace it to fuel, i look at walbro pump i installed the week before, red positive to pump was disconnected. I reconnect it, still no fuel.
I was using a 15A fuse for the fuel pump instead of a 10A, because it kept blowing. the 15A fuse was never blown.
NEXT DAY
I use test light, power to pump is dead, i connect pump directly to battery, works fine , i get fuel pressure back.
-Car still won’t start after this. Cranks, won’t start. Battery was dead first thing this morning.
Any ideas? Help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
just stating the obvious. using a bigger fuse so it wont blow is not a solution. you have a problem with your wiring thats for sure. is your battery in your trunk? you can try hardwiring the fuel pump directly to your battery
It was mentioned in another thread that the Walbro pump requires more than 10A. Wiring designed for 10A will be able to handle 15A fairly easily.[/quote]
so your saying i should do the same? i havent blown my fuse
It sounds too me like you have wiring issues. What you need to do is check for a short to ground. If your MAF & fuel wires are all burnt up, there is a high possibility that you have a bad battery ground or bad wires from your redirection.
Electrical problems can be very difficult & expensive to trace & repair if that is the case. I have dealt with many of these problems before.
If you would like and you are in the Durham region (I dont know where you are because I didn’t read your profile), you can bring the car to my shop and I can have a look at it for you.
If you are close enough too me I can even have a look at the car for you and atleast head you in the right direction as to what you can do next.
Good luck, call me @ (647) 290-1848 if you require any other forms of technical assistance.
I’m located in Brampton, quite the drive from your location.
Right now i’m waiting on a multimeter to check for the draw while the car is not running, the probable cause of my short. My car didnt have a draw before this happined, so i’m fairly sure this is it.
I’m just hoping my ECU is ok. Anyone know if the red light (near the diagnostic swtich) lighted up while the key was on, or only when the car was running? Right now it does not light up at all, and since the car isnt running i can’t check if it turns on when the car is on.
Ok update. Got a proper testing kit, i have no signals being sent for fuel or spark.
I’ve pretty much traced this problem to the ecu, as the red diagnositc light that was there before doesnt come on anymore. I checked the main power (Black/white stripe) and got nothing while the key was on.
The next step that people have been telling me is just hooking up a 12v source to the ecu (with a 10A fuse inline) to see if it works. Any comments on that?
I jumped my ecu, i can see the diagnostic light working now.
I tried cranking it again, i’m geting spark now, but still no fuel.
I have a feeling it’s one of the relays, i had someone check them for me, he doesnt thing it’s them. I’m thinking of having a friend swap his eccs and fuel pump relay with me to see if it makes a difference.
I am sure you may have done this already but check all your fuses including the ones under the hood mainly your engine control fuse.
Also I hate to say it but you prob did fry your ecu mainly the fets or the fet driver in the ecu. Did the car run really rich or bog or studder just befor dying. If you you shorted the Maf wire it would or could give a full voltage reading to the ecu which cause the ecu to run as rich as it possible can, which would over heat the fet’s or fet driver.
Try a diff ecu and if that does not work check polarity in your maff wires with one lead at the maf and one at the ecu if that is good check all main sensor wires.
I could be wrong about the ecu but that is my bet. Let us know!
I first thought it was my ecu, but i’m still geting spark, so i don’t think it’s fux0red yet…
I looked at the fuel pump relay, it seemed to be in working order. I looked at some wiring diagrams and saw that the eccs relay might be at fault, so i took out both relays (they were interchangeable it seemed) and put them in my buddy’s stock 240. His car wouldent turn over with them in. I replaced his old fuel pump relay with mine, and his car still wouldent start. Replaced his old eccs, and it started right away. I thought i found my problem.
I just got a new ECCS from nissan today, plugged it in, unplugged my fuel pump fuse just in case, and hooked up the old ecu main power (ecu was being jumped), still no power. I jump my ecu again and plug in the fuel pump fuse (and the power to the fuel pump attached to it). Try to crank it, same as before, doesnt want to turn over.
This problem is driving me nuts, i may have to get this towed to a proper shop at this rate… i’m running out of ideas. I’m sure it’s something simple, but i’ve had a few people look at it, they can’t spot anything overtly out of place.
Bleh, insight welcome, i’d pay if someone could fix this heap on my driveway, not likely to happin with this mysyery problem though.
Where are you located? Chris (canadiandrifter240sx) could prob come and check it out for you if you are not to far away, he would be cheaper then a shop.
I’m located in brampton, and i’d really rather not bring it to a shop, but i’m really running out of ideas here, and i made the mistake of touching my daily driver.
If someone could come by and fix this i’d compensate them, but from the looks of it it doesnt look like something i’ll be fixing in my driveway.