Try using one of the diagnostic flow charts in the fsm, I think I saw one in there for you issue. Use the s14 sr obviously, unless you’re hella jdm and can read japanese lol
as the rpm’s increase, the injector open times increase. if the pump and lines are not providing the rail with enough volume, the pressure at the rail will decrease.
the alternator was reading 14.6 volts when the engine was cold but I didnt check when it started to bog… ill keep that in mind for the weekend thnx
So I checked the voltage with the battery hooked up when the engine was hot and starting to bog it was reading 13.3 so I’m guessing my alternator is fine, I’m open to more suggestions 
White smoke might mean hg leak ? If it’s just a little bit, that would cause overheating AND sputtering
No smoke at all… Suggesting to me that it could be a fuel issue I read earlier the fuel pump relay or EGI relay can cause the same problem
Does anyone know the correct voltage for the fuel pump wires?
yellow/green reads 12.3v
purple white reads .17v
blue/red reads 1.4v
And I can’t read anything on the solid yellow I’m not sure what the correct voltages are[COLOR=“Silver”]
Correction purple/white reads -12.45
Changed the EGI Relay… same shit
Deff a fuel problem on the highway accelerating opening the throtle wide open the engine wants to die, so im running way too lean…
going to change the fuel filter again even though it is only 2 years old but I did change my gas tank a year ago…
and swap out the o rings on the injectors as well
Little update just bypassed the fuel filter and still no luck… im going crazy!
What’s the fuel pressure do when idling and revving, did you install a mechanical gauge yet?
Did you check the throttle position sensor?
did not do that yet, im letting a guy look at it this weekend im almost certain it the power to the fuel pump, either bad wiring or shitty ground, when I put a jumper cable on with a different car running the SR starts up
hi RANDY ! I had this problem and it drove me nuts .car is fine for 15 to 20 minutes then bluur! I checked this and that and no luck. then I called PUR AUTOMOTIVE told them the symtoms.dropped in for appointment . The car is now running a Audi RS4 ignition system with nooo igniter chip . all I can say is WOW!
brought my car in to a shop i’ll keep you guys informed when i find out what the issue is!
So I brought my car to Eric Anderson’s shop and we are getting closer to the issue!
After swapping the ECU the car ran orbit still had the same issue, when I have back the loaner ECU to my buddy Kevin Talbot he couldn’t get his car started! Turns out my car burnt out the fuel chip in his ECU his car wouldn’t prime… I couldn’t believe that my car broke the ECU so I put Kevin’s back in and my car fired right up!!!
SO WHAT THE HELL IS GOING ON!
After we took Kevin’s ECU in another car with a Redtop… Same issue no priming… So my car deff messed up the ECU!
We then realized my fuel power can run without the ECU and the way the wiring is its blowing whatever fuel related in other ECUs!
The wiring going to the sending unit is a mess so first step is going to be rewiring from the fuel pump relay to the pump and go from there
Fingers crossed :S
hope you get to the issue quikly.these cars can at times frustrate us.
Now would be a great time to wire in a switch activated fuel pump relay and separate it from any ecu/ignition components…
Soo after changing everything that could cause this issue on the SR my buddies father swapped out my CAS and viola problem gone!! Happy, but kinda stressed it took so long and a lot of troubleshooting but she’s back on the road for now and focusing on makin the car look pretty…
Btw I did search symptoms to the CAS but it didn’t quite add up or I would have done it sooner!
Plus my sending unit kicked the bucket while I was troubleshooting so u can see why I was confused