hey guys, i did an sr swap into my 240
one problem after another
but i managed to get all those problems fixed
up until now
this one im completely stumped,
let me tell you my story…
i bought a 240, bought the sr motorset…paid some mechanics to put it in for me, little did i know they were the stupidest most ignorant mechanics. they chopped up the harness and tried to put a Mitsubishi spark box on it, it was only running on 2 cylinders. anyways, after spending close to 1500$ getting a new exhaust, new harness, put the harness in, new BOV, new fmic and all that jazz i ran it for the first time a few days ago, didint move it, just ran it, the coolant temp sensor plug was unplugged and the car would rev and all but the gauge wasint working (coolant temp) i thought nothing of it. and closed the car and went to sleep. today i bring the car out, find out theres a plug in the harness that the guys i paid to put it in didint put in (surprise surprise its the coolant temp sensor plug) whatever, put it in, started the motor, all sounded ok, but it was making a little weird noise (btw it now runs on 4 cylinders) so my friend went to rev it, it went up but kept choking, like it wouldint go over a certain rev. and my friend said that when he was revving it, the BOV was sucking in air is this suppoused to happen!? i need some help, dire help, i dont have the money to put it back in a shop, and i dont have the money to tow it, i need someone to come and take a look at it and help me fix it…please!!
Im almost 100% sure it’s because you still have that old ass throttle cable now ziptied to some shit… It’s creating tension on the cable and opening the throttlebody butterfly valve…
i have no problems at idle
it runs fine
my friend said he thinks the BOV because the adjustment bolt is allthe way open and its probably sucking in air because of that, and and its getting too much air past the MAF so the car is leaning out, could this make sense?
ill make a video for everyone 2night if i still have the problem, and tell me what you guys think…
thanks!
also, if anyone has a DOHC throttle cable id like 2 buy it off them lol
i need some help
im thinking it has something 2 do wit hthe vacuum lines
my FMIC has this little rubber piping much like the pipe that suppousedly gets hooked up when you put a boost controller
i just want some diagrams of some people with FMIC’s and how they hooked ip their vacuum lines please!
Ya guys, basically the motor runs fine at idle, perfect… but as soon as you start revving, it hesitates like madness, and it wont build boost really… itll hit around 2k and stop revving.
Im thinking that since it runs nice at idle, must be something to do with a boost leak or the IC…
Please someone shed some light so we can finish this beast off.
I had almost the same problem as you before.
What happened was part of the intercooler piping blew off (the hot side). I connected and it ran properly again.
Sounds like maybe the shop that serviced your car didn’t tighten all the plumbing?
marco, did u tighten the turbo intake elbow (that goes to the maf/filter)? it was loose when we checked it the other day.
also, the throttle cable wont melt if its touching the valve cover. it was idling at 2k cuz its pulling the throttle when we ziptied it to a wire harness.
yes, the motor bogs/stutters when we try to rev it (or WOT) past 3k i believe…so far idle is fine.
check the vacuum lines man…i dont think the wastegate line is supposed to go (or be t-fitted) to one of the vacuum ports on the intake manifold near the throttle. shouldnt it be connected to the turbo/intercooler piping so it opens it up when it reaches 7psi?
Soopafly J - acutally…we installed the fmic ourselves…all couplers and pipe clamps are tight. only think that was loose i remember was the turbo intake elbow.
well guys, i have a decision infront of me
eithier i sell this thing for like 5-6gz as is
or i finish it
i dont know what 2 do
i need some serious help
and this gas leak ISINT helping.
so roel, when u got time, i need ur help asap lol
Try and either take your BOV right out of the equation (block off somehow) or depending on the type tighten it all the way to ensure it’s not leaking. You should also check and make sure it’s source is from the intake mani somewhere - the FPR is a good source that will work.
And of course make sure the intake system is tight, and that includes that pipe or whatever coming off the intercooler, and then take it from there.
dont sell it because you wont get 5-6 g’s for an unfinished project car with problems (i couldnt get 3 g’s for my unfinished sr project car and all it needed was cheap parts)
and since its stumbling around 2500-3000, my guess is something with the mafs or bov
post up pics of your vaccuum line setup witht he fmic, turbo, yadda yadda yadda
uhh theres this 1 fuse that would cause that its connected to the mafs wiring, i dont no what fuse it is though. i remember i had a shortage and it kept blowing when it blew and i accelerated the car would start bogging on idle. its a 7.5amp fuse in my s14 its under the hood. well its the fuse that supplies power to the maf and main relay i believe. so yea that messes things up to worth a shot.
is this suppoused to happen!? i need some help, dire help, i dont have the money to put it back in a shop, and i dont have the money to tow it, i need someone to come and take a look at it and help me fix it…please!!