Your coils/ignitor could be overheating and killing your spark. That’s what was happening with mine before. I would try swapping out those 2 things and see if that helps at all. Since it’s only happening under load, and when it’s warm, that would be the logical solution.
My coils would work fine when the under-hood temps weren’t that high, but as soon as it started to heat-soak in traffic or w/e, it would cut out an extra 1000-1500 RPM early.
cool but, if it would be the coils wouldt my idle be bad when warm? I might just change the chip first.
No, Your coils work harder under load. Its easier to make spark jump across a gap when there’s less pressure (at idle) in the cylinders than it is when your forcing 12+ psi of air/fuel mixture in them.
Its the same reason you need to upgrade your ignition system if you switch to a big turbo setup pushing high boost.
Yea i gues thats what i’ll change next, it is kinda taking longer to start the engine now…
IS YOUR IGNITOR GROUNDED?
Swapped a few coils today and still no dice…
Still bogs out when engine is warm…
Still idles super low when engine is warm…
And takes a while to start…
The only two things I haven’t changed in the ignition system is the igniter chip and knock sensor…
BTW does anyone on here know or have any information on how to bypass the knock sensor?? I’ve seen some threads but it looked complicated…
like i said, disconnect it and see if the car runs better. the connector is near the intake manifold toward the firewall. the symptoms of a faulty knock sensor are a bad hesitiation at 3-4k rpm, like a rev limiter. this is beacuse the sensor thinks it is seeing big knock and fully retards the timing. above 4k the ecu doesnt reference the knock sensor to pull timing as there is too much engine noise and vibration to distinguish the knock from everything else.
Is the plug for the knock sensor clipped on to the rear of the intake manifold? A grey plug with two prongs? If so I plugged it out and there was no difference… I could be wrong with the plug
It might be mine is zip tied like the rest of my electrical. the knock sensor goes into the block you can feel it so just trace the wires back.
Have you made sure you don’t have any leaks? It could be possible after your engine warms up parts are expanding and a vac/boost leak is getting worse.
did you change the plugs or keep them just cause they looked ok? $20 just change em… first thing +1
kk ill double check, the intake has no leaks although i have been meaning to change the coupler coming right off the turbo, its a little beat up…
---------- Post added at 06:54 AM ---------- Previous post was at 06:52 AM ----------
your right ill change this weekend for the sake of it, also I have a buddy willing to lend me a igniter chip so fingers crossed!!
Keep Us Posted!
Ok today the car decided to take a shit because I was running errands all day so it got super hot and kept dying at every red light so I changed the following:
Plugs copper champions = problem still
Swapped the igniter chip = problem still there
I unplugged the knock sensor = even more backfiring!!
I AM SUPER FRUSTRATED!
I will pay someone to figure this shit out…
All my car can do is bring me to wrk and back cause it doesn’t get hot enough to quit on me…
SOMEONE HELP!
change your thermostat or drill a hole or two through it to keep it running cool. Your ecu temp sensor could be the reason why your engine sputters out when warm / hot.
the temp sensor is a year old, I changed last year trouble shooting cause I had a boost leak through my old BOV.
Swapped out the ECU and that only fixed my dead tach problem… still no luck
its gotta be a sensor or a ground im missing I would love to get help from someone who knows how to troubleshoot well
Since I’ve been borrowing my buddies ECU for troubleshooting my tach has started to work, I realized when even the engine is cold the max it will rev to is around 5-5500 rpm and then obviously get worse when it warms up…
I also realized that when the rpms bounce my exhaust is not black its still clear… so now im starting to wonder if its a fuel starvation issue
I changed my injectors and fuel pump but my filter is about 3 years old, and the thing is when I try to start my car in the morning it takes forever to start and all you smell is raw fuel, thats why i didnt think it was a fuel issue till now.
to determine if it is fuel starvation, you need to use a fuel pressure gauge to see if you have good pressure when the problem occurs. do this with a pressure gauge you can see while driving, i did this with a cheap mechanical oil pressure gauge with a t fitting in the return line, then duct taped to my wiper arm. if you find the pressure to be low, look for a clogged strainer or filter, kinked lines or loose clamps
Cool thnx and just to keep u guys updated I fixed the starting issue… Turned out to be a shit battery
So now I’m deff leaning towards fuel issue cause I still don’t see any black smoke when it bogs out, so now when I start it the car will limit to 4500 rpm and 15 mins of driving it will limit to 2500 rpm and will stall out when I’m at a light.
Ill deff try the fuel pressure gage but out of curiosity why would the fuel pressure progressively get worse if its simply just a clog or a kinked line?
bad alternator? This should have been a question asked very early in your thread but whats your voltage at when it starts to bog. I had an ecu relay go one year so the ecu was only running on 9-10 volts, this made the ecu run in limt I think but the car drove like shit. If your ecu is getting below 12 volts I would think it would mess with how the car runs.