when I installed a thermostat, I bled the system and that a few months ago…since then, I didn’t have any overheating issues
I really want to wire my e-fans back to stock sensors so that the engine does its own thing without having myself worry about it everytime I get off the highway
i have a stock ka rad on my SR and i’m using the single fan from my AC and it works fine…
only thing is that my fan is only turned ON by a switch inside the car , its also has a relay… its the safest way i could think of… i’d always glance on my temp gauge just in case it goes up.
as for bleeding the air, every moring before starting the car , open the rad cap and some coolant if its low, repeat this every moring until its not low anymore
hope this helps 
one more thing… i only have the oem SMIC , it might make a difference
a buddie of mine helped me wire my fan to my acessory function on my ingniton. so when ever you turn on ur car it turns on atuomatically.
That wiring job is disgusting. Clean that up…loom it up, tie it up neatly…
And yes I would bleed the system of air and make sure your thermostat is opening and closing.
Do you have an aftermarket coolant gauge?
Try and get one and see what kind of temperatures you see. Maybe (it’s a possibility) the stock sensor might be bad.
This may be a problem, although I can’t remember if there actually isa a difference at all or not. The values re sent from the sr ecu to your ka (oem gauge) may conflict, so yeah drop a small $ and get a aftermarket guage. I’ve got a single cheap fan and a megan gauge and it never goes past 145 (although it’s an R32 GTR rad)
I’m contemplating about getting an aftermarket temp gauge…
so last nite I took it for a ride to see if it’s doing the same thing and guess what, it did. what I noticed was jus driving conservatively doesn’t help and when I opened the hood, the engine was hot but the rad wasn’t (so I’m guessing there’s an air pocket somewhere). I’ll bleed the system and see if that help first
Under normal driving conditions, how high should the temp needle be hovering at? cause my needle was over the halfway point and was slowing moving up/down on interval notch
thanks for the help guys
where would I probe my temp gauge? in the rad or in the engine?
If your RAD was not hot…I would guess your thermostat is stuck closed.
Below are the pics of cooling circuit as well as how to test your thermostat.
How is it your radiator is cold but your motor is hot? That doesn’t make sense. Almost sounds like there isn’t enough coolant in the system.
Could also be your water pump is busted and isn’t moving coolant around.
If your thermostat is stuck open both your rad and motor should be relatively cool (in which case no overheating problems).
If it’s stuck closed both your motor and rad should get stupid hot.
Try this when your motor is cooled down fully.
1 - Start your motor up and let it warm up (this will take a few minutes)
2 - Keep your rad cap open.
3 - As you see your gauge needle get closer to the middle (Normal) go and feel the upper rad hose. It should start to get hot. Keep filling the coolant in the rad until its pretty level.
4 - As motor warms up, you should see the coolant to start flowing through the rad filler hole.
5 - Both your upper and lower rad hose should be fairly warm right now (with the upper one being a little hotter).
Take your Thermostat out and test it as per steps below.
Download the S14 SR FSM (it’s pretty much same as S13) and read up the Cooling stuff starting on page 119
http://www.phatg20.net/modules.php?name=Downloads&d_op=getit&lid=307
thanks Gonad
will definitely do the test
I started the car yesterday to see if just idling will overheat but the needle was stable halfway between the 2nd and 3rd notch from the bottom (I ran it for 10 mins, but will do that again)
yeah, it’s weird that the rad wasn’t as hot as the engine, while the temp gauge was giving me a hot reading, I was holding onto the upper rad hose without burning myself…maybe it’s time for a new rad
is there anyway to check if the water pump is toast without taking it out?
yeah they leak out the front when they are dead…
or take teh belt off and see how it spins…
so I took out the thermostat and pulled a couple of boosted runs and now everything seems fine
the needle is hovering between the 2nd and 3rd notch and looks like it’s stable
the e-fan is functioning again and operates periodically so I guess it’s the thermostat…I appreciate your help guys