Alright the damned altima is stalling, it only does it when the its idling (gears of 1, N, P, and D only) basically when ever its stopping or stopped. I have replaced the O2 Sensor, Alternator and Battery, so it isnt those…
I was thinking the Fuel Filter, however would fuel pump cause a stall out? I basically am wondering if its a Fuel System or a Sensor (MAF, etc) …
Erin’s car, a '94 Cavalier, came with a transmission sensor called the “torque converter lockup” sensor. It basically tells the transmission when to engage overdrive. The problem was that it was keeping the car in overdrive when she was coming to a stop and it would stall the car like you would with a manual left in gear coming to a stop. Unplug the sensor, you’ll lose a little fuel economy on the highway, but it’s a cheap fix to your problem!
If the motor has been warmed, it can… its one of those stupid problems, fails 90% of the time… if just idling…
And it’ll fail 100% if fuel is supplied and then i step off the pedal, (i give the motor fuel, get to cruising speed, have to brake, release gas and the RPM drop… and it doesnt catch itself like normal operation…)
Also she is burning rich, not oil or coolant but fuel… i have a bad feeling its fuel related…
You think the motor might be getting too much fuel?.
It couldn’t be the fuel filter, if it’s running rich it’s getting plenty of fuel. Maybe too much that it’s extinguishing the spark?.
Have you tried to clean off the MAF or do you have a spare you can try?. If you have one of those wet element aftermarket air filters, the oil could’ve contaminated the MAF element causing it to read incorrectly.
After you clean it off, try resetting the ecu (disconnect the car battery for a few hours) and test the reults.
thanks but i already have the official shop manual from nissan…
No i dont have an oiled air filter, dry type… Clean the MAF? How does one go about doing this??
Also last night i was looking at the O2 sensor i just put in, and it looked like it was beingt overheated… the rubber cap around the wire (just were it leaves the sensor) had accually moved away from the O2 sensor body, i thought they were built to handle exhaust tempatures…
What I’ve done in the past is unscrew the element from the MAF body and give it a quick swish with isopropol alchohol in a small cup. It has to be something that won’t leave a film.
I know some of the B13’s had an odd issue of the ground wire to the MAF failing in the harness plug. Check these connectors too.
The O2 sensor may be normal, I’m not around my car right now so I can’t check, anyone else?.
After replacing the O2 sensor, tinkering and finally breaking down and leting the guys at Mills take a shot at her (This is after the semi- useless tech at Erickson tried to scam me) She is now running strong and has no stall
Turns out the Idle RPM was lowered… which i have no idea how i managed that. They also cleaned out my fuel systems, to stop the rich burning and now she pulls stronger, and is has better throttle responce.
Suffice to say this chapter in her history is done, and now is time to start the Turbo build hehe
Thanks for all you help guys, it’s nice to know that there is still people out there that are helpful!