stretched sidewalls- please explain

BT Dubs. Wagon drifting!
http://cache.jalopnik.com/assets/images/12/2010/09/black_smoke_racing_opt_2.jpg
This guy has you one up tho… Diesel!

While I see your point in that the inside if the tire is taking more of a load and will therefore wear faster, the wear from that deformation is negligible in the real world. I have no idea what the hell you were talking about in regards to lugs and toe, but my point was that you will not see any CRAZY FAST OMG REPLACING TIRES EVERY MONTH wear from negative camber alone. That comes from the tire scrubbing from toe which people usually don’t correct when they camber themselves to hell to clear the fenders. (see: any of Ron’s tires from 2010 :rofl)

bullshit…

My DD jetta has an eibach pro kit, clevis’s up front modded and rear perches modded. Normally that drop is far less than a “cup kit” for MK4’s. My jetta is about .5" in the front and an inch lower in the back than Bowmans TDI jetta with a cupkit.

the front has a touch of camber from the drop and doesnt have any toe in either. rear is factory, since its a twisting beam and it cant change with suspension drops.

I cheaped out on my RC’s and got bottom of the barrel 225-40’s for them. I have about 15Kmi (mostly highway) on them. Fronts are showing cords on the inside, about a c-hair of tread in the center and about 1/16th tread on the outside. Rears have 1/2 tread life left, across the patch.

They chewed through the inside edges to wear bars in about an oil change 5kmi, outsides just started getting contacted and still had 90% tread I bet. then they lasted till now 10kmi later.

Its like a ramp up, insides skyrocket until the contact wears “evenly” or across the tire edge to edge… then the wear peters off a bunch, and the rest of the tire eats away.

100% different than the rears.

Is your toe parallel?

If factor spec was 0 deg or parallel then yah. I didnt do the alignment myself however to say so 100%.

edit.
Ill crawl under that bitch this weekend with a tape and get a ball park on it. Now you got me thinking.

Usually factory alignments have a touch of toe-in, especially front wheel drive ones, plus you can’t tell me you don’t wring that thing’s neck, you said the fronts are what’s wearing fast. So, that’s what’s eating your tires, it’s not JUST BECAUSE YOU HAVE NEGATIVE CAMBER IS ALL I’M SAYING YOU GOOF. Of course if there’s negative camber it’ll wear the insides faster than the rest of the tire, no shit, but it won’t wear it HEAVILY if there is no god damn toe (parallel)

yer goddamn steering antler sonofabitch is DICKERED AS FRIG FFS

Obvious toe problem is obvious

beg your pard

no

This thing is dead balls slow. lol I do drive it hard, but with the RSB and suspension I get a bit of oversteer on hard turn ins, very little push, unless I am steady on the go pedal on a long turn. But in all honestly, I drive 66 miles a day on the thruway, 5 miles city and maybe a few back road miles consistently. So even if I drive the nuts off it, its a small percentage of the life of the tires. But yeah 100% see your point fizzy.

I am going to ride you negatively with lots of tow in and see how you like it you blue text username moose knuckle.

is it really that obvious? damnit.

http://www.media-post.net/nt2.jpg

whoa cool

Remember neon underlights, big wings on civics, and vinyl on your street car? Stretched tires are like that.

thanks for the input guys… i guess i kind of get it for the drift guys since there is some purpose there and tire wear isn’t an issue obviously, and as i suspected- the miatas with 185/40r14’s stretched onto 15" wide rims really just are a new breed of “rice”… to each his own i guess

that guy has them more then one-upped

Diesel
mercedes
MOTHERFUCKING STATION WAGON!