Well the car is back at the shop because it looks like the clutch master cylinder went.
The resistance in the pedal is gone, the friction zone went from the top of the travel to the absolute bottom, won’t go into reverse and won’t go into any gear without the aligning of the stars.
Wondering if I should replace the slave at the same time or is there no interference between the two systems?
LGT FTL :eek3:eek3
bottom line subarus are junk
agreed
replace em both,most failure of those is contaminated fluid.its just like brake fluid it absorbs moisture and shit and after a while it needs replacing
Yeah it looked pretty gnarly when I took a look at the fluid.
well its hydroscopic,in other words it absorbs moisture and whatever contaminits are in there.after a while the seals and shit in the hydrolic system will let shit pass ,and dirty the fluid itself thus contaminating it worse and wreckin the seals in the system ,id do both and flush out old shit wit a syn brake fluid ,it seams to hold up better
Just out of curiosity- did the clutch pedal have a slight vibration when you would first push the pedal? But would go away once you had pressed the pedal down a little way?
If the clutch arm is bent, you can get a slight vibration when the clutch is completely engaged - heating up the fluid and turning it to crap.
Sounds a little out there, but when the motor gets put back in, after, say, doing head gaskets, if the motor was torqued around a weebit in order to get the pins to line up on the tranny, the clutch arm can get bent in the process. Yeah, that happened on mine.
I was kinda lazy, so I’d just bleed the clutch every so often. But yeah, the fluid looked like poo.
most likely went due to a new clutch installed ,pushing the slave piston back and old nasty shit ripping seal in it …
Never got the new clutch installed… yet.
The clutch slippage went away that same weak, but the friction zone was and still is at the very top of pedal so it’s on the way out.
Most likely some residue was left on the clutch after re-assembly.
Lyndon don’t remember any serious vibration, nothing noticeable at least that would make me think about it.
oh so ya need a whole clutch job on top of this ,thats not gonna be cheap
Well Lyndon was right on point once again, car needs a new clutch fork and the clutch is gone, which is what was causing the erratic behavior.
But hey I got good news, the master seems to be fine…
I have a feeling that all LGT’s of that generation go down the same road, as mine is mimicking Lyndons step for step.
Clutch is ~ 250$, flywheel resurfacing is included, fork is ~50$, axle boot is ripped so that will get redone while the motor is out, and other miscellaneous labor will be done at the same time (o2 upstream sensor, fuel filter).
Should be interesting, but hey if it has to be done, it’s got to get done. :’(
Seen this beast parked @ inline.
Might Steal :ninja
Well, I can honestly say that sucks that I was right. But, hey, that’s one less thing you’ll have to worry about once it’s done.
Yeah that leaves me to wonder what’s going to go next.
AC, alternator, transmission…
I’m loving the fact that my newest car with the last miles, is the least reliable and the most expensive to maintain.
But hey, that’s what makes a Subaru… a Subaru.
Not to spread the joy, but I do know that mine had a recall (or some sort of ‘covered’ electrical work) done shortly before I bought it for the alternator- prior to that, the electrical system did have some problems. I’d definitely suggest looking into if yours qualifies for said recall (I never looked into it myself, as it was supposedly already done and I never ran into electrical problems myself).