It's been too long since i posted up a problem with the Z...

NYSpeed Automotive
1

Well, after spending 15+ hours under my car over the course of a few days trying to get to and replace a coolant feed line to the turbo that decided to go on me…

after being extremely excited to be driving it again after 2 weeks of it sitting still because i had no time to work on it…

two days after fixing it…yet another problem smiles in my direction.

I’m very concerned at how hard it just became today to get the car into gear. Eric (blk300tt), back when he had his Z, had the same problem…apparently it was his slave cylinder, and he didn’t catch the problem in time, and ended up frying his clutch/flywheel. His advice to me was NOT to drive it at all since his showed no signs of going at all, until one day it became hard to get into gear, and next thing he knows, cluth and flywheel are gone after only 5K miles or so.

Spending $800+ on a new clutch and flywheel is simply something i want to be doing right now.

So, it looks like after 2 weeks of looking at the car sit outside on jackstands, after 2 days of being able to enjoy it…it’s time to park it again until i can find time to work on it.

Apparently the slave cylinder is only like $25 or so, so hopefully that’s all i need…

Ugh…cars…

2

:violin:

just kidding :stuck_out_tongue:

3

it is a 10 min job to change the slave cylinder. its bolted right to the bottom of the tranny. quit your bitchin and fix it. This is part of owning a Z

4

Sucks to hear man. Old cars can be a bitch. Theres enough 300zx people around here though that maybe someone can shed some light on the subject for you and maybe lend a hand. Gooduck

5

yeah, ur lucky its that easy of a fix this time. get it done and dont f-up ur clutch

6

sell it, buy my evo so i can get a cobra

7

Do yourself a favor. Never mod a car again?

Buy something new and reliable, I think you’ll be happier.

8

right after i see u at main and transit earlier today…glad my curse worked

9

yeah i had to drop a sister off at a friend’s house…and on the way home i noticed it getting hard all of a sudden to get into the higher gears…no matter how slow i tried to shift, it still found a way to grind a bit, especially going into 4th…

and then i noticed how touchy the pedal had gotten…i barely lift the pedal at all, and boom…it’s already fully engaged…

talked to Hank though, $17 and change for the slave cylinder, hopefully i have time to pick it up and replace it this weekend…and hopefully, that’s the problem…

10

BAAAAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHHA!!!

This is getting ridiculous…

So i get the slave cylinder, and as i was told, it’s a 10 minute job…and this was true…

Before i could even get to the slave cylinder though, i noticed a few drops from the tranny…and i’m thinking “sweet, the slave is leaking, that was my problem…” but alas…i was wrong…

I had successfully replaced the crappy rubber coolant line that runs between two metal hard lines last week…and it was holding up great…however, now coolant was leaking from the lower of those two hard lines…great, how the hell do i fix that…

Probably going to have to use a compression union, and tube cutters, and just attach a new section of the metal line…which will probably be impossible, with the lacking arm/hand room that exists up in there…

BUT, things get better…

I have the old slave off, and the new on in place…have somebody sitting driver’s seat pushing the clutch down, while i open and close the new bleeder in the new slave cylinder…and every time, the clutch pedal is sticking to the floor…after 15 or so times pushing it down, opening then closing the bleeder, and having to constantly pull the pedal up by foot, i get concerned…

Eric says try bleeding it with the car running, since there may be a vacuum source attached to the clutch line assembly somewhere…

i say ok…what the hell, i have no other idea why the hell the pedal would be sticking to the floor…

so i start the car, and have melissa push the pedal in again, and it stays down again, i open the bleeder (now mind you, the past 7 or 8 times i’ve done this, it’s been a steady stream, no air coming out at all, so the bleeding process should be done by now…) and as i re-tighten the bleeder nut again, it’s not showing ANY signs of tightening at all…and just as it becomes slightly snug, the nut falls off…WTF!!!..i find it, pick it up, and notice half of it is missing…the cheesy piece of shit aluminum nut snapped in half as soon as it became so slightly tight…

i would know if it was my fault for over-tightening the bleeder…but i didnt, it was barely at all snug when it just snapped…

now my dad is gonna have to try and salvage the new slave, or else i have to get another, $17, no biggie…but, then i have to figure out why the clutch pedal is sticking to the floor, and after that, i get to spend another week or so trying to fix the previously fixed coolant leak…

11

Every clutch I’ve ever bled you have to push and pull the clutch pedal by hand until it builds pressure, I wouldn’t worry about it.

12

X2

it’s the way it’s sprung.

13

dude. its time to sell it. get a fun dd that is somewhat fast.

sell it while you still can.

14

lol

http://www.nyspeed.com/forums/showpost.php?p=31965&postcount=14

15

New concern has come up…

To the best of my knowledge, this is how the clutch works…you push the pedal, the fluid causes the piston in the slave to go outward, pushing on a lever, releasing the pressure plate…

which looks like this:

http://www.nyspeed.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=2282&stc=1&d=1182791032

When you release the clutch pedal, the pressure plate engages again, causing previously mentioned/picture lever to go back, pushing the piston of the slave back in again, and in turn causing the clutch pedal to come back up…

this looks like:

http://www.nyspeed.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=2281&stc=1&d=1182791032

my pedal wasn’t coming back up…and i noticed that the lever that it pushes, controlling the pressure plate, wasn’t pushing back…

i got under there and took these pictures…and as you can see, there’s no line going to that slave cylinder…i’m able to, by hand, and with ease, move that lever back and forth…shouldn’t the pressure plate have way more pressure to it? i should not be able to do that by hand…

ugh this is gay…please somebody tell me that my thinking process is totally ass backwards and i’m way wrong…and once the car is running and i have all the clutch lines back together it will work fine…please somebody tell me i’m wrong…

i just really really can’t understand how the car was FINE yesterday when i started it in the street to pull it in the driveway…how can the pressure plate go from holding fine, to not holding at all once i take off the slave cylinder and get under there…what could have happened in the 5 minutes it took me to jack up the car and get under it, to cause the pressure plate to go from feeling fine to appearing to be shot…

16

WTF out of 60+ members online right now, not a single one of you knows anything about how a clutch work? i sure as hell don’t…

17

You cannot comment on the state of your clutch by your slave when you havent bled the system or have a line hooked up and a bleeder closed. It’s also likely that if you have an old master on the car that you blew the old seals out in it when you had full clutch throw when trying to bleed the slave. It’s a common problem with rubber sealed piston devices (like Clutch/Brake masters and slaves). Full throw causes them to disintegrate. Blew out a few masters on different cars from that.

18

if u can move that by hand, then something is indeed very wrong. I dont know what is wrong, but that is NOT normal.