I couldnt find any topics related that will help my situation. My goal is to nott run the amp bridged it sucks too much power. I have two Dual 4ohm voice coil subs rated at 300rms/600ach power and a 2 channel 300watt rms x2 @4ohms or 360watt rms x2 @2ohms, bridged the amp runs 720watt rms @4 ohms. Ive always run my amp bridged exactly like the second setup which has always sounded great and thumped hard. I decided to run the amp one channel per sub(not bridged) and it sounded like crap. I was told my subs are being played at 8ohms :? not sure if the guy ment when the amp was briged or not. Im going to wire it up like in the 1st pic and see how it goes…im not sure this is the best route. Any help from any installers would be bomb…this amp bridged sucks a good 100amps from my charging system which is horrible. Not bridged i suffered minor voltage drop but sounded like crap even though those subs were moving like crazy. I have a DVOM…no clue whatso ever how to use it to test the ohms tho.
wire it like the #2 pic where it has a impedence of 4ohms… the specs for the amp say it is stable as low as 4ohms bridged. so if you ran it like pic 1 you could possibly fry the amp or make it drive into protect mode…
If your subs are dual 4ohm and the amp states it will take 360wrms x 2 @2ohms then I would wire it like this for each channel. Run the positive from one channel to the positive of one sub and then a wire from that positive to the other positive connection on the same sub. Then do the same for the negative taking the negative from that channel and connecting it to the negative on the sub and then a wire from that negative to the other negative of the same sub. I have attached an image to illustrate this below. This is pretty much the same as wiring the amp to mono-block output but should allow u to adjust the gain for each sub independently.
BTW there is no way your amp is drawing 100amps of current, general rule of thumb is 10 amps for every 100wrms of power so figure at max output rms ur looking at maybe 78amps but that isnt likely to happen often due to the fact your not always using 100% power output when listening to music unless ur listening to straight bass tones.
^^^^^^Thanks…this is actually the way i did it earlyer on and it thumps just as hard with the sensitivity on the amp set 1/2 way. The subs play a lot cleaner with less distortion. As for the amp drawing 100amps i was going by what the installer said to me…i figure he ballparked it high just to be safe since im upgrading the batt and alt…my caps do nothing for me.
no problem, always around to give advice:). It should be a little better running both channels instead of bridging the amp. I would say at the most your amp would pull 70A on a really DEEP hard hitting note. Why do you feel your charging system is inadequate for your system?
I drop from the average 13.95v idling to 12.26v when i have some accessorys on. id be happyer if it stays in the 13s so im putting the nissan quest alt in the car which is 40-60 amps more cant rem and a yellowtop to store power more effeciently.
make sure you swap to the quest fusible links too, and that means grab the whole alternator harness if you can and part or all of the remaining harness coming out of the fusible links with big white wires in it… then remove/splice as needed into the existing…
it’s not good enough to use a big alt with skinny cables and puny fusible links… do it right and do it all
Before spending any large amount of money I would first replace the oem grounds with 4 gauge wire and new terminals. This is usually from chassis to batter, chassis to transmission and chassis to engine/valvecover. Swap those for new 4awg wires and make sure to clean the contact points where your installing them.
From there I would look at the alternator which may be small for your application. The thing is most alternators are not designed to produce peak at idle they are designed to output the most at driving speeds (1500rpm+). There are also different configurations of alt. windings etc but i wont get into that. Your best bet is to swap in a slightly larger output alt or have your stock one rewound buy a rebuilding shop.
As for the fusible links, no offence but those are very old school and quite ineffective and just plain annoying to use. Run a 4 gauge wire from the alternator output to the battery with an inline fuse holder and it will do the same job and will be easier to replace if for some reason it shorts out compared to if you short out a fusible link.
