Suspension and wheel setup, help.

Car is White 240sx '92 HB

I’m in desperate need of wheels and suspension and have just about settled on these.

http://www.1010tires.com/wheel.asp?wheelbrand=Motegi&wheelmodel=SP5+-+GB

In 17by 7 and 17 by 7r (wider lip in the rear)
or 17by7 front and 18 by 7.5 rear
or 18 by 7.5 all around
all +40 offset

now I want to run them pretty flush would roll the rear fender if needed but won’t roll the front.

My questions are whats the max spacer I can run without changing studs (I’ve searched search doesn’t work very well ) and what will that look like for each wheel setup, now tires I want to run as staggered as I can I have to choose between firestone or bridgestone, cuz I get these below cost. Whats the min tire and max tire size for a 7inch rim - 205/40r17? and the largest? 235~ same for the 7.5 inch.
Also I know someone selling brand new Kyb AGX shocks with eibach from a 300zx, would they fit an s13?

First off, why are you in “desperate need” for wheels? Second you have alot of research to do based on your choice of wheels.

Those wheels are garbage for what you want, they belong on a honda. If you wanted those to be flush you would have to run a 40mm spacer, max you can run without extending studs is 8mm. If you want flush get proper sized wheels, a 17x9 +20 for example will be flush.

A 235 is to big for a 7" wheel.

No 300zx shocks and spring wont fit a 240.

Save up and get proper sized wheels if “flush” is all you want.

I don’t want 9 inch wheels cuz I don’t want to pay for tires for a nine inch wheel.
I want wheels made on this side of the globe so if one gets damaged or something it doesn’t take me forever and is not impossible to find just one wheel that matches.

I really need wheels cuz i’ve just had all the body work with a body kit and it looks pretty stupid 4 by 4 ish right now, with sunken wheels i don’t need hella flush wheels, i rather not roll my fenders.

I have done alot of research on wheels and it’s a pita to find something i like in 4 bolt thats cheap and easy to get. These seem to be the best option though i know there not the best.

I’ve tried searching but it always asks me for a dam code then the codes always wrong. Anyways I guess I just need to know how many mm of clearance i can add to the inside and still be ok and how many to the outside and get rid of the sunken look.

Cheap and readily available.

http://www.1010tires.com/wheel.asp?wheelbrand=Falken&wheelmodel=Hanabi+-+Bronze

I would just go for the 9", tires aren’t much more for them, but you have youe mind set on something else.

You dont need to go with super wide tire on a nine inch wheel if you dont want to. You can strech a 225 or 235 on there no problem, and since it’s the “mad JDM tyte supercool/superflush” look you’re going for a stretch is exactly what you’d want anyways.

Listen to these guys, if you buy those +40 offset wheels you’ll be sorry.

Yeah that’s why I didn’t buy them yet really rather not get such a crappy offset. I didn’t know I could strech such a small tire over such a large rim, but that will make it alot easier to rash them up, I don’t think I need all the grip either, I would be happy with something not as wide, I would really like a lip also, I had already seen those on there and some members also have them.

I measured the gap from the stock tire to the inside of the rear fender and I have about 55mm to fill if I get 7 inch wheel with 40 offset that 15 extra mm outwards then with 8mm spacer is 23 mm… still pretty sunken. They sell the fno1r-c on there in 17by8 but 35 offset…Hmm, guess I should just do a 5 bolt swap. Notihing seems to be strait forward with this car. Had my car tinted today only to have him rip out all the tints and do it all over again oh and he rammed my car into the lift so my front spoiler is all cracked now.

Lease my day wasn’t as bad at the fedx guys who didn’t see the two foot retaining wall and drove right off it and got stuck.

Check out Sport Max Wheels. A lot of guys down South run them in 4 lug. They’re pretty cheap too since they’re somewhat of a discount rim company.

http://www.sportmaxwheel.com/

Yea they got some nice wheels on there
http://www.sportmaxwheel.com/sportmax_502.shtml
this is black would be nice with polished lip, but do they don’t list anyoffsets. I guess i’m going to start looking for a 5 lug swap… blah! Just wanted to keep it simple but i’m to picking with rims and some what cheap.

17x9 +10 255/40/17 <- ftw thats what im going non staggered when i get the bling.

Otherwise if things get really serious, a 17x10 +0 275/40/17 front and 315/40/17 rear. :stuck_out_tongue: Go with the 255 setup :smiley:

Yeah but I don’t think the stock ka or even stock sr needs 1000 in rubber in just the rear plus almost no one makes 315/40/17 and u have to get them in 35 profile.

the max i would run would be a nine inch in the rear with a 255 tire like u said with a narrower wheel up front on something like a 215 tire or 225. Guess I got no choice but to go with a common wheel found on most 240s :S that sucks.

Ive got 215’s on my 17x9s no problem without the use of a blaster. Cheaap and jdm tyte.

Soo… why do you give advice if it is not correct to begin with?
With a 25mm spacer they would fit rather well, and those can be had with studs on them, so extended studs would not be needed.
Furthermore, running an 8mm spacer with stock studs is NOT safe, it’s more like 2-3mm.
17x9+20 will rub without fender work even with ricer stretch tires, and you’re gonna have a HELL of a time making them fit with proper tire sizing.

sure they would fit rather well and I completely agree with that, but in this time and age fitting “rather well” is not flush. And anything over 20mm are “Bolt on” and have no need for extended studs, but he asked what was the max spacer he could run without extending studs so I answered his question.

I had read on other forums that anything up to 8mm is safe, and you see people running 5mm spacers all day on stock studs. But im sure your right so I apologize for the wrong info.

And again about the 17x9 +20, refer to my first comment. That size wheel is considered flush by most peoples standards and having streched tires is just a given. I mean I would consider a 8" +30 wheel to fit rather well and for the most part be flush, But If you head over to zilvia all the fanboys will be like “omg you sunk my battleship”.

Thanks for your concern.

I know a guy who fit 17x9 +20 245/40/17 tires on the front of an s13, he had like 3mm or something (barely any space), he had slight rub but it was nothing major.

So think about that.

This is why I find it hard to determine what fits and what doesn’t some people are thinking of streached tires and what not and others are even thinking rolled fenders. Whats a good fit front and rear with proper sized tires and no fender work. I’m interested in peoples feeling and the draw backs of bolt on spacers, I just don’t like the idea of them.

So your looking for actual well fitting wheels and not Jdm tyte flushness, good choice :). Like I said in my previous post a 16 or 17x8 with an offset of around the +30 mark is a well fitting wheel when run wih proper sized tires. For an example theres a set of wheels in the for sale section right now, the keiichi tsuchiya Modex wheels. They have very decent sizing and look good on the car with proper rubber.

a 235 on an 8" wheel is a good fit, but if you were to run that on a 7" it would be ballooned pretty bad, I woldnt run more then a 225 on a 7" (Imho)

The disadvantages of bolt on spacers are mainly the cost, at $150 - $200 a pair your could save that monay and put it into the wheels you actually want and not waste it trying to make wheels you settled for look good. It’s also possible that they do put extra stress on the studs as the wheel and mounting surface sits much farther out from hub then it would regularly. And of course its one more thing to have the chance of coming loose.

Join Zilvia.net and check out the Wheel fittment/whore threads. There’s pictures of all shapes and sizes of wheels and tires. It’ll give you a great reference for what you want. Guys in the U.S. spend a lot more time obsessing about this kind of thing.

Hey that answers alot of questions thanks, I would rather run something less then a 9’ wheel and don’t really want to go bigger then a 235 tire cuz the price and avalibility really starts to deminish. Yeah if thas really the cost then I would just much rather put that money into a 5 lug setup.

Would a 8 inch with 30 offset and a 235 tire fit in the front as well? Or should I pick a differnt offset. 18’s out of the question I heard they look a little big on an s13, maybe just in the back to increase the grip a bit more? And does anyone know how many more mm’s of clearance there is inwards towards the strut? ie if i get a 17by 8 wheel with 30 offset ill have 13mm of extra rim next to the stut plus even more with the tire on, is this ok front and back?

I want to respond to this…

To add to the last paragraph about spacers. Adding spacers, adds unsprung weight which results in less efficient acceleration, heavier and less responsive handling, worse dampening and greater discomfort and harshness in ride quality. Spacers end up being a quick fix and a long-term waste of money, I’ve never seen as much of a car community abusing spacers as much as s-chassis owners.

Also try these net calcs although it is just theoretical, in practice the tire width and profile affect the fitments too.

http://www.1010tires.com/WheelOffsetCalculator.asp
http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html

17" wider tire sizes are readily available up to 255, up above that you get availability issues (eg; me considering 275/40/17 tires).

To run a 18" rim you would have to run a 35 profile or even (depending on width of tire) a 30 profile tire… to stay within standard tire diameter sizes, and it does look descent it’s been done properly on Japanese tuned cars, but it is not recommended, japan has glass smooth roads, compared to the garbage we have in Canada. Also what comes to my mind when 18" rims are mentioned for an s13 or even s14 is chrome bling bling rims with ugly spinners or something like that… and of course very crappy high offsets… in other words, think about that.

Go with a 5 lug conversion as well, it’ll benefit you long term. I currently run skyline gts rims, but I will probably switch to some lightweight 17x9 +10 rims in the near coming future to run a 255/40/17 setup. Another question to ask yourself is whether to run a staggered or non-staggered setup. Depending on your goals and intentions think before you make a decision but don’t waste money on spacers.

My father has a 225/50/16 tire fitted to his Taurus 6" rims, and well it runs, and grips well, but it looks like a crazy setup.

People emphasize too much about stretching tires especially da dorifto crowd. All stretching does is preload the tire, so that the sidewall becomes very very stiff as we do not run race tires. so although someone says it’s impossible, it doesn’t mean it’s not.

Check these out:

17X8 275/40/17

http://www.subrew.com/tmp/sti1.jpg
http://www.subrew.com/tmp/sti2.jpg

That’s almost what my father’s taurus now looks like lol. So you can tell how bulged the tires are.

Being ‘flush’ or having a stretched tire, or staggered setup that people in the s chassis community encourage, may not actually be the best setup for the car’s actual handling. It may contribute to ‘the look’, but it may not be such a good idea. Rethink your ways

I just put my 5mm spacers on the front of my S13 and i wouldnt go any bigger without extending studs. Theres only 7-8mm of the nut threading onto the stud and i stripped one. I still am going to extend the studs with the amount of times my wheels go on and off the car it would be brutal on the nuts.

I think the various wheels we have would make a diffrence of how much thread on the stud is left for the nut?