Im planning on building a not to crazy solid suspension platform for a skyline, now im wondering if y’all can help me out on missing parts or suggestions as to fufill this task …??..
- Tension Rods
- Upper Mount
- Tie Rod & End
- Coilovers
- ??
sways
power brace
vtec contorller
Vtec Contorller??? Wtf??
Turbo Timer so you get less lag
what do you plan to use the car for? drag, circuit, drift, daily driver/weekend warrior? or do you just want the best shit so you can say you have the best shit? be a little more specific with you question or you will just get carded around here.
peace
i plan on using the car morely on daily driving, and on the wkends or such … it would hit the track for circuit, auto x and some drift
budget?
no budget … but like i said, nothing “crazy” just a solid platform
front suspension:
tie rods inner and outter
tc rods
rear suspension:
RUCA
toe links
general:
shock and spring combo (KYB AGX+tein springs for example)
27/22 or similar swaybar f/r
energy suspension master bushing kit
swaybar urethane endlinks
check balljoints and replace if necessary
I don’t understand why you would upgrade the inner tie rod? Is something wrong with the stock ones? I always thought the tie rod was a fail safe part, you hit something and it bends, doesn’t break so you don’t loose steering. If this part is to strong when you hit won’t you just mess up the rack which is much worse and costly.
I would say bushing all around, coilovers, spend as much on tires as you can on tires, light rims and a good alignment and front and rear strut bars no need for multi link parts unless it more of a track car.
Its really just a precautionary measure, you dont want to change the outters then have the inners go on your a couple weeks later do you? But like you said its not nessesary, rods like tein are the same as stock, beefy after market ones are stupid for the exact reason your said, Tie rods are meant to bend.
osads just listing off his hopes and dreams for his car one day, you dont need new inner tie rods unless theres play in them, if there isnt there fine they dont need to be replaced, dont waste your money on a “good” shock and strut combo like the “KYB AGX+tein springs” wasting your time if your gonna spend the money make it worth what your spending.
here you go man… the Suspension BIBLE http://forums.driftinginsider.com/showthread.php?p=1675#post1675
If you’re going to lower your car, the suspension geomotry changes. The only way to correct this is using a few key links of the suspension to adjust camber and toe for maximum grip vs. least tire wear. I’m not listing off a wish list, I’ve already got 80% of that stuff.
Coils are pointless on the street Matt and you know it. A good daily driver is shocks and springs with sways. This is also a wicked combination for some light track use. Why spend 1500 on coils, when you can spend a third of that, and put the money elsewhere, while still retaining similar results. The valving on most coilovers is way too overkill for a street car.
I am by no means an expert but I think the geometry would be fine on something like a 2 inch drop, you only lower the car a bit for performance the rest is for look.
I don’t disagree that coils are pointless on the street but anything you do to your car besides regular maitenance is pointless for the street in this sense. You don’t need chassis bracing for A to B drives.
He wants a decent suspension setup, imo decent set of coils, I got stance I do more daily driving on them then anything, no complaints execpt from my parents.
Personally I might buy the bushing kit one day its cheap, but theres no way in hell i’m gona rip apart my car to replace every single bushing. I start with those that need it, and go from there.
I tho would spend on tires get some bridgestone reo1rs or flaken 615 if you dont want to spend as much. Do your own research.
Then get an alingment. thats about 2 grand or a bit more.
Multi link setup is gona cost more and imo is not suited at all for the conditions of daily driving and so is a waste of money.
Also you will probably get some front and rear sturt bars at some point I would suggest getting a piar that are fixed with no movable parts.
Spend the rest on track time cuz there no part you can buy to replace experience.
I know my spelling is terrible, go call my english teacher.
LOL… if you only went about replacing them as they wear out etc or as need be then technically its all a waste. How could you take advantage of a bushing kit for improved handling when your not even willing to install them all at once. Better yet, if your car is old (like most on SON) then most bushings are probably already warn out and would benefit from being changed.
2nd^^^^
replacing your bushings, all of them, with polyuathane will completely change the feel of the car. its alot of work but worth it in the end.
oh, and forrory a 2" drop will affect the geometery of your supension.
peace
Of course a 4" drop will affect the suspension, it’ll make it better.
you wanna learn more about your suspension like I am for
my summer’s project?..
here’s a good company & resource to learn more about suspension,
by one of the known masters themselves 
http://www.whiteline.com.au/default.asp?page=/faqintro.htm
FAQ SECTION
y’all can thank me later, lol 
Check out the R&D page on Ikeya Formula’s site. That’ll show some of you what the real nitty gritty is.
.1" or 5" drop. Doesn’t matter, all will be affected. The gemoetry basically links in pairs of triangles to form a certain shape that determines your roll center aswell, which lies right in the direct center of either your front or rear suspension geometry. I’m too lazy to find a diagrams right now.