The Failboat

Figured I’d finally make a thread about my shitbox honda that I love way more than makes sense.

Car is a 97 Accord LX sedan that’s been in my family since it was new, and became mine in 2008 with a bit over 70k on it.

Currently it has almost 142k on it, I’ve replaced surprisingly little shit. Instead of getting a different car, I see it as much easier to just change the few things I don’t like as much about this one. As far as what’s left, I wish it cornered slightly better (progress rear sway bar will fix this), had a bit more noise from the exhaust (easily fixable), had more supportive seats (if I come across a set of tan cloth 4th gen prelude buckets I’ll probably grab them), and was a bit faster. Otherwise the car’s awesome.

It looked like a stock 97 LX when I got it, steelies with covers, no rust.

Threw blackhoused headlights on it, and promptly hit a deer the next night:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/268533_2217790695161_893863_n.jpg

Bent back the hood, bought a new headlight, put amber corners on, and drove it like that for a while. Spring 2009, with highschool (read: in better shape) me sitting on the damaged part:
https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash2/281374_2217834176248_3292014_n.jpg

Honda’s clearcoat was not the greatest in the 1990’s:
https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/284308_2217790615159_4933876_n.jpg
https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/269153_2217764454505_3084697_n.jpg

Installed a typical 17 year old stereo in it. Pioneer DEH-P3000 headunit, and a pair of kenwood 12’s fed by a profile AP1000M amplifier.

Got a set of alloys of a 93 EX. Eventually decided to attempt to wetsand the clearcoat to find some good paint underneath. Here’s how that ended up:
https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/267538_2217764774513_7465414_n.jpg

Deal fell through with the person who was originally going to paint it, so it basically looked like that for the better part of a year.

Honda’s pretty awesome at making things rust, even plastic:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/284092_2217763934492_5681573_n.jpg

Eventually it got painted summer of 2011:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/281471_2266055341747_5585376_n.jpg

Drove it around that way for a while. Points to whoever can tell me where this is:
https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc1/s720x720/427038_4359864565669_1994473997_n.jpg

Lowered it last summer on some eibach sportlines, weirdly don’t have any pictures handy. Here’s it on the snow tires though:

Our first big storm last winter. People said it was gonna suck in the snow. It didn’t:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/s720x720/578033_10200188906156243_1451917615_n.jpg

Because lack of money, I only recently got the snow tires off the car. Picked up a set of wheels, and a friend hooked me up with the tires off his wrecked TSX. TSW Turn 5’s, 17X7 45mm offset. Powdercoated “bronze” by the previous owner. 215/50 R17 tires, which are sorta gigantic (almost an inch larger in diameter than stock) so they fill the wheel wells nicely without rubbing (just barely). I’m probably going to re paint them gunmetal this winter.


I really need to wash it and make all the black plastic trim actually be black again. Corner lights could use a refresh too. Probably this weekend. Wheels sometimes look more brown than bronze. Considering the anthracite plasti dip true metallic.

At some point while it was in primer, I helped a friend part out a nissan maxima. He gave me the factory bose speakers and amps, which I retrofitted into the accord to replace the stock speakers that weren’t great. When you feed them a clean signal from an aftermarket head unit, and you set a crossover so they aren’t trying to produce bass frequencies, they actually sound quite good. The things you do as a college student when you have more time than money.

It is, somewhat regrettably an automatic, but by ditching the honda ATF-Z1 fluid, installing an aftermarket tranny cooler, and tweaking the throttle lever on the trans as far as I had room to increase line pressure, I’ve managed to get it to not suck enough to tolerate. Shifts are quick, downshifts happen when you want them to, and it will sometimes chirp second.

clean, and i am by noone’s account a honda guy. my autotragic hardbody chirps second, but thats only because it kicks into gear really hard.

Did they assure you that they were open?

Was this guy next door at RST Video?
[ame=“http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b8H7wUKryrw”]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b8H7wUKryrw[/ame]

Thanks, I’m trying to keep it looking not stock, but the way it could have/should have come from the factory. If I had to pick a style I’m semi-following, it’d be somewhere between JDM and OEM+, but really I’m just building the car the way I like it.

It shifts fairly smooth, just really quickly, about as fast as you can lift off the throttle and get back on. It’ll look way better when its not filthy and the black trim is actually black again (plasti dip to the rescue). Also trying to get rid of any and all chrome on the car. Because chrome is for minorities.

It’ll be much faster when I replace the tired 2.2L non vtec single cam (130hp/139tq stock without california emissions precat) that is making maybe 105hp with an F23A1 and remove the precat (150hp/152tq). Plus side: It gets 31mpg on the highway.

We have a winner. It was open, laid out largely the same as it was in the film. And RST video was not there unfortunately.

Doesn’t look bad at all!
Props for using a period correct head unit.

Reminds me of my old 97. Makes me miss it quite a bit…


Keep up the good work

Btw mine was great in the snow. Even this low

I love it. On paper there’s not really much reason for the car to seem special, but they somehow do. They are comfortable, they drive great, they are way more fun than what they should be given that its a front wheel drive family sedan from the 90’s. And lowering makes them look fantastic.

Semi-period correct. Was more a “I need an aux input, Pioneer is awesome, and I can hook my old ipod to the back of it”. Plus side, to this day my friends can barely figure out how to do anything other than adjust the volume.

I guess pioneer reused the model number.

Quick Stop Groceries, Leonardo NJ. HOW CAN I REDEEM MY POINTS??? Can I exchange them for skeeball tickets!!?

EDIT- DAMMNIT. Next time I’ll scroll for correct answers before I comment.

Car looks good though.

Only if you can spot the sailboat in this image:
http://i1.wp.com/www.geeksaresexy.net/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/mallrats-magiceye.jpg?resize=477%2C277

Pic from the auto show last weekend makes for a pretty decent then-and-now, both for the car, and my out of shape ass. Not that any of you give a fuck.

2009:
https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash2/281374_2217834176248_3292014_n.jpg
2013:

Working my way through all of the plastics with the trusty can of black plasti-dip. Works better than Mothers Back to Black, and takes about as long to apply.

Not that anyone gives a shit at all, but since its spring the parts hoarding has begun.

Got a set of Morimoto Mini H1 projectors to retrofit into my stock headlights, replacing the bright yellow slightly glare-tastic 3000k HID’s with glare-free OEM-white ones. Fun fact: the morimoto minis are a bixenon pojector, so now I can have double high beams if I want, both the stock halogen ones as well as the projectors with the cutoff removed.

Also have a box of stuff coming from rockauto. New inner and outer tie rods, new lower balljoints to help make the car a lot less likely to kill me. I’ll put those in when I finish the modified radius rods and extended strut tops.

Depending on if a deal goes through or not, I’ll also be picking up either a set of koni yellows or Bilstein HD’s for it.

A huge rear sway bar is on the list of things as well. I hope to autocross the car a few times this summer.

Bilstein HD’s have been ordered and will get here early next week. Still need to make a set of extended strut tops for the front before I put them in. Supposedly they work well off the shelf with sane (not crazy low, not crazy stiff) lowering springs. Worst case, I’ll run them for a bit before looking into having them revalved.

Went with these over Koni Yellows because I don’t need or want a knob on my shocks.

That, the modified radius rods (MOAR CASTER), and the big box of parts from rockauto will take care of fixing the ride and most of the handling (a rear sway bar will finish fixing the handling).

Next on the list are the brakes: good pads, new lines, and a rear disc swap to be completed this spring/summer. Going to stick with the 10.2 inch accord rotors for now, when those need replacing I’ll step up to the 11.1 inch wagon brakes and larger calipers.

By then it should drive about the way I want it to, aside from being slow and underpowered. Swap is on the horizon.