I bet they’ll give $2,000 -$2,500.
7bolt out of a 95? highest rate of crank walk…
i repaied frame damage on a 90 tsi. not worth it.
You can also hold out for more money. You don’t have to take the first offer.
Yea ill see how things go when they call me and ill base my desicion from there. It doesnt matter how many miles on the body, I bet its the cleanest 95 eclipse around, not to cause drama. i believe that its just the core support right? Im sure the headlight area can be pulled out by hand… Change the water pump pulley, the belts and hood. Then i could just do the 97-99 front end.
if the frame is damaged, your not pulling shit by hand. You need a frame machine to straighten the car. It is not just simple bolt-on repair. Your car is severely damaged, and even if you fix it, you will now have a salvage titled car. Resale value will probably be cut straight in half.
What ever they offer just tell them it is worth more. Tell them how clean it was and that it ran great.
This is some good advice from someone on turbo-mopar.com
Things to do AFTER you have an accident.
- Do your negotiations in writing. Create a paper trail. I don’t like to be sucked into over the phone negotiations with an insurance company. Why? For the simple fact that a phone conversation creates plausible deniability. It is way too easy for the insurance company to deny what they’ve said to you over the phone. I prefer to communicate in writing and via certified mail. In the event you go to court, this leaves a documented paper trail and you have confirmation that the insurance company has received your communication to them, a fact they can’t deny. It also shows you are serious about pursuing this issue.
- Document your vehicle and your claim. This is where your documentation gathered before the accident comes into play. Provide the production history on the vehicle, receipts for the work you’ve put into it, a copy of the professional appraisal, a copy of the agreed value policy you have on the vehicle, anything you can to substantiate the value of the vehicle.
- Be patient and don’t cave in to bully tactics. Remember that their first offer is going to be their worst offer. These companies prey on people needing money and needing to get their car back on the road. If you are into Turbo Mopars, hopefully like many of us you have more than one and aren’t reliant on the car for daily transportation. Insurance adjusters are under the gun to settle quickly, they want these claims off the books. In speaking with several Turbo Mopar owners who have been through this it seems that the insurance companies won’t budge on their offer for several months. I’ve heard from 4-6 months waiting before the insurance company will budge on their offer. It also depends which insurance company you’re dealing with. I’ve had four losses (none my fault) and the experiences I’ve had vary by company. Three out of the four instances were total loss cases, in two cases the company was eager to settle, in the third case the company seemed to care less. In my book they’re all difficult to deal with, but some are better than others.
- Be professional. Don’t make outrageous threats or demands. And keep your temper. I know this can be difficult to do, but you’ll get better results if your firm and not just a raving angry lunatic.
- If they’re trying to total the car and you’re going to fix the car, make that known. It seems like these days they’ll total our cars for a door ding. Perfectly fixable and in many cases still driveable cars are being totaled. Don’t settle for a salvage title. And try to negotiate out of the salvage value being deducted. Insist that the settlement money you are being provided will be to fix the car and that you are fixing the car.
- If the car can be fixed, do your research on who you want to fix it. Don’t take it to the closest place or cheapest place. Take it somewhere that you know does good work, that others have used and can attest to the quality of the work.
- Know where to file a complaint. Insurance companies are regulated by state. Each state should have an Insurance Administration who has oversight. Don’t hesitate to use them. The state of Maryland has an on-line complaint filing system.
yes it is. Whats up mike.?
I was talking about the flimsy metal holding the headlight in. I believe the frame itself only shifted a little bit, but just enought to hit the water pump pulley and bend it. It nowhere near severly damaged. I already have a new hood, fender, headlights. I think its worth fixing. Its not like the frame twisted or bent in half ya kno?
To my understanding its only the rod bearing that have to be replaced.
cant you get a diff crank… and if your gonna build it, it would be necs anyways…
yea im not sure, im new to the dsm world. On dsmtuners it says what you have to do to fix it right.
Inb4stupiddebtforputtingatotaledcarwithashitenginebacktogether.
:fail::gay:
I have tons of 6 bolt parts. if you need a 6 bolt block, crank, pretty much entire motor let me know. ill sell cheap.
Be thankful it got totaled. Stupid idea to buy it back and fix… idiot.
PM me with parts and prices please. Let me know everything you have.
Give me a few min, It’ll take a while.
im telling you dude, swap it into something lighter that doesnt look fast. hyundai elantra comes to mind lol.
Brian
Haha. Exactly what I was planing on doing to my winter beater. Mini Evo anyone;) DOOIITTT