smooth is fast
Miatas are great for teaching conservation of momentum. Good vid for sure
Car is stored for the winter. I picked up an '01 VVT motor this past fall. I plan to swap that in come spring. Ill need to get an ECU to tune the VVT- havent decided if im going togo with a megasquirt or an AEM. I dont plan to do too much this winter-- I decided to save money for track time rather than mods. I expect a 40hp or so bump with this swap.
Will also be picking up some new tires and consumables. Nothing crazy.
:tup:
what motor was in it, b6 or bp?
:tup:
Its a 95. Bp
Ignore. Using this as a notepad for VVT swap research.
No coolant reroute needed with 02 gasket?
“I used the 94 fuel rail. To make this work I had to remove the FPR and reinstall it reversed in direction. I also had to straighten the fuel line nipple on the front side because the intake manifold on the VVT engine was different enough that the fuel line had to be relocated.”
“I removed the butterflies from the intake manifold and welded the hole where the shaft exited the manifold. I also welded the hole where EGR gases enter the plenum. I have no intention of using an EGR circuit on this engine. I hope to remove the charcoal canister and all other solenoids associated with the EGR.”
"I removed the oil pressure sensor from the 02 engine and replaced it with the oil pressure sending unit from the 94. Since the sending unit is much larger than the sensor, and it was not in the same location as the 94 engine, I had to modify the starter support bracket for clearance. I used my 94 fuel rail and turned the FPR around for the vacuum line to clear the intake mani. Then I realized the the angle of the injectors is different between the NA and the NB. The fuel rail sits closer to the head on the NB. I cut the mounting tabs off the 94 fuel rail, removed the correct amount of material, then welded the tabs back on the fuel rail. "
injectors?
01 coils or 94?
GM IAT in place of MAF sensor?
94 t-body?
"
The stuff that will remain the same:
All of the starter and alternator wiring, as well as the OPG wiring (use a 94-97 1.8 alternator and the OPG sender that corresponds with your gauges)
The injector and coolant temp sensor wiring. You should pull the +12v for the VVT solenoid from this harness - it's the easiest, closest +12v. Your old CLT sensors (for the ECU and gauges) will carry over to the new engine.
The wiring for the TPS and IAC (the connectors are different, but the wiring itself is the same) (Note for 1.6 guys, you'll either not use the variable TPS or you'll need to move some stuff at your ECU connector to use the factory TPS wiring)
The stuff you’ll add:
The cam/crank wiring. The OEM CAS has a 4-wire connector - you have a +12v, a ground, a cam sensor wire, and a crank sensor wire. Feed +12v and Ground to both of the NB sensors, hook up the cam signal to the cam sensor, and the crank signal to the crank sensor. Easy-peasy.
The VVT signal wire. Grab +12v from the injector harness and then run your own wire for the signal to the control solenoid. There is no polarity, so hook up the +12v to either pin.
TPS and IAC pigtails. The IAC is easy, since there's no polarity, but you'll need to pay attention to which wire goes where on the TPS connector. Each car has slightly different wire colors so there's no color-by-numbers for this one. I will usually hook it up temporarily, confirm the TPS function, and then make the connections permanent.
Coil wiring. If you have a 94-97 NA, this is pretty easy - just hook up the wires as you otherwise would, and then use your ECU to drive the tachometer. If you have a 90-93 NA, it's slightly more complicated, as you'll need to bypass the OEM ignitor before you hook up to the OEM wires. This assumes you're using the 2001+ coils - if you're doing LS coils or keeping your factory NA coils, then you don't have to touch the wiring here.
"
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Originally Posted by hustler View Post
I assume I can find the required settings for the VVT stuff in one of your threads, right? Is there an MSQ floating around that I can use to get the car started?
I’m guessing I’ll need to run “NB+” settings for:
CMP
CKP
spark
IAC
VVT
while I run NA settings for:
Fuel pump
AC
alternator (not really any settings for that but I have a spare '99 bracket)
How will I make the tach work?
I’m worried that I’m over-simplifying this.
There are msq floating around that should be able to get you started. What year is your DD? I think you said 95. Is that correct?
For the Cam and Crank sensors I ran them through my stock CAS wires. There are 4 wires for the stock CAS. 12v, ground, cam, crank. You can find out which is which in one of the MS threads. Basically you hook the 2 grounds from the NB cam and crank sensors to the grounds CAS wires. Then do the same with the 12v wire, you can also attach the VVT pwoer wire to this. Then attach the cam signal wire to the correct wire on the CAS plug, them do the same with the crank.
For VVT you run a single wire back to the MS3x db37. I routed mine through one of the stock EGR wires that I was no longer using.
Spark depends on if you are running sequential spark or not. If you are you will just have to run 2 additional wires back to the ms3x harness.
Any reason why you can not just run your older throttle body on the new IM? I was planning on just reusing my 94 TB when I was going with a 99 IM.
For the alternator you probably just want to run a 94-97 alternator. That way you don’t have to worry about it."
Oil filter relocation?
wiring
http://y8spec.com/wiring/images/wiring/95sys.pdf
http://y8spec.com/wiring/01-02_wiring.pdf
so how has that cage been to you? Passed inspection okay? Any formal inspection done on it?
Did you opt for the X brace for the rear downtubes?
Sorry, I did not see this. I have not had it formally inspected because I haven’t done anything that requires it. It doesn’t have the doorbars in so it wouldn’t pass any wheel to wheel inspection. I have the tubing for the xbrace in the back but I didnt put it in-- more weight for minimal gain.
Would anyone be interested in buying this? I have another opportunity for a car that I REALLY want…looking to see what kind of money I could get. If someone didn’t want the seats/harnesses/steering wheel I would gladly negotiate them out of the sale.
Price? PM me details.
Pmmed.
:bigtup:
Still available. Doesnt look like hes interested.
Here’s a quick parts list for those who dont want to go through the thread-- may not be 100% complete. I am wiling to negotiate out the seats, harnesses, engine, and momo wheel. Im at about $14-15k into this build including the original price of the car (which is 100% rust free and an absolute JOY to work on). Im thinking with EVERYTHING to start pricing at 9k.
hardtop
miatacage ( i have the doorbars)
miatacage hardtop brackets
ultrashield seats
gforce harnesses
momo 383 wheel with quick release
complete spare '01 VVT longblock (VERY desirable motor for NA cars)
jackson racing header
koyo 55 rad with koyo cap
racing beat Tubular Race front 1.125" - .188 wall swaybar with miatacage endlinks all around
flyin miata butterfly brace
bossfrog frogarms
energy suspension master kit
dtc-60 pads/napa blank rotors
braided stainless brake lines
TRM 15x9 wheels with nt-01’s
arp wheel studs with 949 forged open ended aluminum lug nuts
xida club sport coilovers with 800/500 rates and helper springs. These were 2300 new last spring and the best miata coil on the market without getting ridiculous.
new plugs
timing belt/water pump was done by previous owner
new clutch slave cyl
new r-edition tie rod ends
I had a blast driving this last season at TMP. It’s pre-96 so inspection should be fairly easy if someone wanted to drive this on the street. It is definitely a safe, reliable and capable handling track car. The suspension is awesome, as are the brakes. Whoever gets this will enjoy it. I am surprised how lightweight and nimble these cars can be. The lsd rear diff is nice too.
“Buy a Porsche” they said. “You will be so fast on the race track” they said.
Had a ton of fun at Mosport this weekend. Absolutely my favorite track so far. Best lap of the day was a 1:47.7, with a typical clean lap between 1:48-1:50. Spec miata record is 1:42 I believe so I’m pretty pleased with my performance. Proof that you don’t need an expensive high horsepower car to have a ton of fun at the track.
Ran with Nnj pca. I was in the lowest run group as it was my first time with the group and at this track. I was solo’ed on day 1 of 3, which was frustrating because I paid for instruction. I’m going to write an email to the head of the group regarding that, because I’m clearly not an expert driver. My instructor sucked so it wasnt a big loss. Even with no instructor, I managed to drop 7 seconds of my time between day 1 and 3.
Car is for sale!
I’m watching this, completely cracking up. Crushing Porsches, taking names. Love this.
There’s this tiny little part of me that wants it back now.
Embeded video:
Good stuff! :tup:
Hell yea. If I had the money I would buy this car from you.
Mosport love that track
+1