Transmarobird guys: Prepping the car for the track... help!!

[speedracer329]

i dont have a transmarobird but ive driven a heavy car around a track a lot, simple advice is, nothing less than ATE superblue and Hawk HP+ or equivalent. not to sound cocky but even lighter cars driven hard without the right pads and fluid, dont make it more than 10laps before having to come in. in a 3700lb turbo car hawk HP+ and ATE, i could comfortably pull 30min sessions with a few (tire/brake-save laps), yah the pedal would sink 1/2in-1inch but the brakes were still within their upper limits and felt solid in that zone, i attribute that to good fluid. I ran the ATE powerdiscs in the front, and vented plain face in the rear, im going to step up to hawk blue’s this year or Porterfield R4, but if you want a Good Pad, the price range is about $90-150 for front pads

edit: i use a deditated set of rotors for the track to go along with the track pads, might as well get plain face brembos or something you can burn through after 2-3 events, no sense in heating the sh*t and possibly warping better rotors if this is just a weekend thing…

[Studderin]

@neonglh

The clutch line has a restriction in it, so “factory” cars don’t get beat by power shifts, it basically lets the clutch out slower on fast shifts, to protect everything by letting the clutch slip. There is a write up, but you pull out your line, put it in a vice, and drill out the end where the restriction is. After doing this, the clutch feels much better on fast shifts, and won’t get stuck to the ground like shawn said.

Some say its the best mod you can do to your fbod :tup:

haha, mark knows do much LS1 stuff lately.:poke:

Yes the stock line about .950 inside has a restriction thats like .065 IIRC lip in the crip to the braded flex line. Most just use a 1/8 .125 drill bit. to remove it, it will drill a little material off the fitting end.
Its also a good time for much need clutch hydro maintenance. With the master out, line, and res. Upgrade to a adjustable RAM, or you can mod your stock with a little work and some skills. The helps with getting more life out of your clutch so you can keep adjusted corretly as it wears. And solves the hard getting into 1st/rev cold. Witch in not releasing as the stock non adjustable system wears.

Clean out the old fuild junk in the res. and at min the seals, and stop/sping in the master. Use good new (unopened) fluid, the vavaline SYC in the shit. You can bench bleed the system really good, all ready to go. Then just pop it in (will its a PITA 1st time not knowing the tricks, master RnR), Pedal bleed the old fluid out of the master, set your catch point and your set. Clutch will be way better, and fixed one of the issues with having a LS1Fbody.

edit, the I/U site write up is good, if you use a mcloud master, its a good idea to take it apart and clean, and debur the sleeve.

[turbo_ls1_ss]

DOT 4.1 Dave.

chuck taught me this. higher boiling temps and less fatigue. and it is compatible with normal dot 3. dont even need to fully flush and clean the lines

[TORQDSS]

@Studderin

haha, mark knows do much LS1 stuff lately.:poke:

Yes the stock line about .950 inside has a restriction thats like .065 IIRC lip in the crip to the braded flex line. Most just use a 1/8 .125 drill bit. to remove it, it will drill a little material off the fitting end.
Its also a good time for much need clutch hydro maintenance. With the master out, line, and res. Upgrade to a adjustable RAM, or you can mod your stock with a little work and some skills. The helps with getting more life out of your clutch so you can keep adjusted corretly as it wears. And solves the hard getting into 1st/rev cold. Witch in not releasing as the stock non adjustable system wears.

Clean out the old fuild junk in the res. and at min the seals, and stop/sping in the master. Use good new (unopened) fluid, the vavaline SYC in the shit. You can bench bleed the system really good, all ready to go. Then just pop it in (will its a PITA 1st time not knowing the tricks, master RnR), Pedal bleed the old fluid out of the master, set your catch point and your set. Clutch will be way better, and fixed one of the issues with having a LS1Fbody.

edit, the I/U site write up is good, if you use a mcloud master, its a good idea to take it apart and clean, and debur the sleeve.

wow, I am definitely not that mechanically inclined. I’ll have one of mechanics do that. sounds like it will make a very noticable difference

[cougarspeed]

Some good info in this thread. Im wanting to make mine more track worthy as well.(It even has a swaybar again i swear) This has pointed me in a few good directions. Not my thread but thanks for some non drama filled solid ls1 info.

[TORQDSS]

i know, it was a nice change. no “my honda will kill your f-body” garbage

[sickboy]

Yeah sounds like we’ll have a good turnout with a good number of Fbodys (3 at least?) at the Dunnville event, I know I’m in for sure, TORQDSS, shockwave? who else will be there?

[matter]

^ I wont have the M6 ready for the track, but Ill be there for the BBQ with the auto

[TORQDSS]

bump

does anyone know what equipment the drivers will need to wear?
helmet obviously, gloves? firecoats?

I own a DOT helmet that was my bike helmet but I do not have any of the other stuff that may be required

[Oroc]

umm correct me if you wrong but you have an LS1… nothing esle is needed… thats track prep from the factory… ls1= u go fast

[TORQDSS]

:tspry:

[sickboy]

Helmet is mandatory everything else is optional I think. I’ll be sporting my motocross helmet! (DOT/Snell approved)

[Onyx_Z32]

@TORQDSS

bump

does anyone know what equipment the drivers will need to wear?
helmet obviously, gloves? firecoats?

I own a DOT helmet that was my bike helmet but I do not have any of the other stuff that may be required

It’s all in the handbook that you need to read and sign before you’re allowed on track. It’s on the first post of the BBQ / Summer START thread. :tup:

You’re bike helmet is fine.