is there a way that i could bore out my vtec? for more vtec displacement?
Window switch or SAFC controlled?
sure, it’s well know that ported vtec is totally worth like 50whp, ten IQ points, and at least a 50 point bump in credit score.:doh:
anyone ever put vtec in a truck?? lookin get a little more pick up out of my pick up
attn everyone:
i would be happy to install a vtec on any car you have. prices may vary due to certain engines needing different sized vtecs. plus if you have a truck you will need a special adapter plate. unfortunately the vtec “h” model is on a 6 week backorder from pretty much everywhere i called.
also, what the fuck is this retard talking about ? “VTEÇ” solenoid"?!?!?! 
i love it when honda fags try and talk all technical when they are totally fucking clueless. why would a vtec need a sloenoid when it runs off of water pressure.
also blkp42e… if your vtec is stock sized without the extra turbo boosting feature, you can bore it out. but it really only gives gains above 160 mph.
so i need to look at replacing my entire vtec to see better low end gains?
huh? no i do not have an safc… what in the world does window switch controlled mean
does anyone know what my oil pressure should be? and should it change at all between idle and 8000rpm?
here’s the situation, it today actually went to nothing in my driveway idling for a second… so it is the pump or the pickup?
it never peaks at more than about 60psi… should it be higher?
if i were you i would drop the pan and check for schrapnel or debris possibly clogging your pickup if its clean its probly your pump…and def dont run the engine anymore low to 0psi oil pressure equals death…and yes your oil pressure should vary from idle to redline i believe its somewhere around 20-80ish…hope this helps
oil levels ok? sometimes, it won’t engage if temps are high as well. and your positive the screen isn’t clogged? also, are you throwing a CEL?
omg enough with the cel thing, my ecu when tuned on crome had the cel turned off… no it is not but if it was capable i’m usre it would, no i am not even close to having any overheating problems, and no i just had the oil pan off, there is nothing at all obstrusting the pickup, oil was just drained, had 1000 miles on it came out insanely clean. had te pan off, nothing weird, looked at the pickup and as far as i could tell all was well. nothing obstrusting thats for sure, the weird thing is that an oil pump would go on a 50k engine. not that it couldnt happen.
Now honestly i have never replaced a b series oil pump… as far as i can tell i can do it without removing any internals is this correct? i mean if i do it i’m obviously doing water pump and timing belt as well just wondering if i need to pull anything other than the crank pully and oil pan?
yea i know i cannot get to the water pump without lowering the engine on that side, but i’m just wondering about the pump for the moment.
Also i have heard that the 97+ gsr itr pumps are the ones to get. Any input on this?
If your oil psi is dipping to zero or near zero at idle I’d say you have bigger problems and need to correct them first and foremost. If your VTP isn’t disabled in crome or jumpered like mentioned above, then this may be your vtec problem also.
Oil pressure gets low for only a few reasons
-lack of oil to pump
-oil too thin (wrong weight or way too hot)
-obstruction on the pickup to the pump
-blown seal from pickup to pump (pump sucks air not oil)
-worn out pump
-lack of obstruction after the pump (worn out bearings don’t give that backpressure we read as oil pressure)
I always find it to be the last one but you could get lucky. Reguardless if you don’t fix that oil issue NOW it will end up being that last one as a result.
back to vtec
If you’re tuned on crome you can remove the vtec oil pressure switch or like mentioned above just jumper the wire, but that’s not always the problem.
The ecu also checks speed and coolant temp. Both these checks can be removed in crome also. I know you said the speedo works fine, but I’ve heard of the speedo working but the ecu not getting the vss signal and therefor not activating vtec. Think this is only on the cable driven vss though.
maybe because of seal issue not because of oil ammount-lack of oil to pump
no-oil too thin (wrong weight or way too hot)
no-obstruction on the pickup to the pump
have to check-blown seal from pickup to pump (pump sucks air not oil)
have to check-worn out pump
hopefully not-lack of obstruction after the pump (worn out bearings don’t give that backpressure we read as oil pressure) i don’t see why i would have bearing problems already, this is a 50k engine that has been well taken care of. not that it couldn’t happen because of a low oil pressure issue though. If so i guess this winter she will get the low compression slugs she has been wating for.
The car is most certenly not getting run until it is fixed.
the thing is that (at least in my inexperience with oil pumps) it seems inconsistent enough to be a pump, it is never above 60psi, and it is most certainly affected by rpm, the higher the rpm the higher of an area in the psi range it bounces around, it bounces around lower at lower rpm’s
I’m just throwing all these ideas out to try to assess the situation. I’m also sorry for my ignorance within my assumptions, just trying to answer some questions for myself without knowing really enough about it.
havn’t been on in a while, new job = no time. So new oil pickup and pump are installed… still no vtec, still showing funny oil pressure on my gauge, i’m going to switch out the sending unit for both my aftermarket gauge and my oem sensor and see if anything fun happens… talk about a frustration.
Oil pressure:
10psi @ idle
50psi @ 3000rpm according to Helms
sweet, hopefully both oil sensors are silly. we will see
those odds aren’t looking good. I’d check your bearings before they trash your crank and you need a new one, if you don’t already.
yea i know it does, the thing that gets me is that i don’t get how my bearings would be bad, it is only like a 60k engine.
Would i just drop the oil pan, Pickup, tray, ad crank main girdle as well as like one main cap at a time and plastigauge them?
Simple. Low oil pressure = insufficient oil film which leads to bearing to journal contact. High oil pressure is what allows the crank to float on a film of oil (until pressure subsides or the oil film breaks down due to heat or contamination that is…) It’s not going to change clearances, so plastiguaging them is not going to help. Looking at the bearing and journal surfaces would give you a much better idea…check for radius ride, overheating, pitting, etc.