I’m looking for TSB info for a 2010 Chevy express. I’ve found very little info after hours of searching google. I did find a TSB describing the noise I have concerning the rear suspension. It’s a metal on metal clinck noise that I thought would be u joints, but the TSB I found leads me to believe it’s not the u joints. Anyone have all data access that can find more info and possible fix for the problem before I go ahead and replace the u joints?
whats the milage? U joints are covered under 5yr/100k powertrain warranty.
pulled up SI and found 2 bulletins for leaf spring issues
03-03-09-002E: Rear Leaf Spring Slap or Clunk Noise (Replace Spring Inserts) - (Jun 28, 2011)
[LEFT]
Subject:Rear Leaf Spring Slap or Clunk Noise (Replace Spring Inserts)
Models:1999-2012 Chevrolet Silverado 1500/2500
2000-2012 Chevrolet Suburban 2500
2002-2006 Chevrolet Avalanche 2500
2003-2012 Chevrolet Express 2500/3500 Vans with 8500 GVWR (RPO C5F), 8600 GVWR (RPO C6P) or 9600 GVWR (RPO C6Y)
1999-2012 GMC Sierra 1500/2500
2000-2012 GMC Yukon XL 2500
2003-2012 GMC Savana 2500/3500 Vans with 8500 GVWR (RPO C5F), 8600 GVWR (RPO C6P) or 9600 GVWR (RPO C6Y)[/LEFT]
This bulletin is being revised to add the 2012 model year and update to the Warranty Information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 03-03-09-002D (Section 03– Suspension). Condition
Some customers may comment on a rear leaf spring slap or clunk noise. This noise is most apparent when the vehicle is operated over irregular road surfaces.
Cause
The rear leaf spring tip inserts may have broken apart from wear and fallen out, or may be severely worn or damaged.
#09-03-09-002A: Noise from Rear Leaf Spring Under Acceleration and High Loads (Replace Rear Leaf Spring Shackle) - (Apr 8, 2011)
[LEFT]
Subject:Noise from Rear Leaf Spring Under Acceleration and High Loads (Replace Rear Leaf Spring Shackle)
Models:2006-2012 Chevrolet Express
2006-2012 GMC Savana
Commercial Cutaway Vans - G33503, G33803, G33903[/LEFT]
This bulletin is being revised to add the 2011 and 2012 model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 09-03-09-002 (Section 03 – Suspension). Condition
Some customers may comment on a noise from the rear of the vehicle. Upon Investigation, the technician may find the left and right shackle lower bushings are worn/ torn. This creates a metal to metal contact.
Correction
[LEFT]1. Verify the condition.
2. Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in SI.
3. Support the rear axle independently in order to relieve the tension on the leaf springs.[/LEFT]
replace spring shackle with GM part number 20773420.
I thought that issue was solved by putting in a thicker spring pad . The plastic inserts that snap into the springs anyway .
Thanks for posting the info. I’ll take a look at the spring shackles before I attempt u joints. U joints are easy and cheap enough to do at home, it would cost me more in fuel to go to the dealer and back.
GM u joints are much higher quality then the 10 dollar part store option. Ours are almost 100 bucks over the counter, plus if you damage something doing it yourself the warranty on the part is voided. My .02 would be if it has less then 36k on it take a ride to the dealer.
Im not sure if GM still does this but a lot of their U-joints are set in hard plastic instead of c-clips. Unless you have oxy-acetalyne at home than the leafs will be easier and the u-joints pretty much impossible.
The ambulance I ride in everyday had the shackles replaced under warranty. Its an 09 with 80k and weighs 8k pounds before patients, paramedics, passengers. It is a 3500 Duramax diesel and still has the factory U-joints. She gets driven hard too!
I do stop and go, forward to reverse without coming to a dead stop. Not to the point where the tires lock up. Just hit 89k today, and I know for a fact it’s the u joint now. For the first time it started making the “eee-err-eee-err” at slow speeds. I’ve google how to replace the u joints and people have been doing them with a small propane torch. From what I’ve read it’s just a nylon retainer.
It’s easy
like John said it’s easy just burn the nylon out first then I like to use a balljoint press to push the caps out. Like I said before if it’s the joints they are going to be free at the dealer and a higher quality part then what you get from advanced or NAPA.
He has 90k on it lol warr is out ain’t it ? … Also u can use a balljoint press to do em as well .if your near exit 10 bring me the shaft and I can install it as well .
I might end up bringing to the dealer but not just for the u joints. I’m pretty sure the g80 locker is fucked, I haven’t felt it engage at all this winter, and I’ve been on some icy driveways. Last year you could deft tell when it locked, it would bang then you could hear the tires scuff when you turned onto pavement. I know the diff is drivetrain, it should be covered right?
Ahhhhh another gov lock unit down . Lol there so weak .
If I have to pay outa pocket I’ll just have a friend help me put an Arb air locker in it, none of this junk that’s just going to fail again.
U joints are part of 5yr / 100k powertrain so it will cost him 0$
Any problems with the diff would be covered as well.