Or we could agree to disagree. I’d rather have a truck that eats rotors then one that shoots it’s spark plugs out of the head every 60k. Anyway every vehicle is garbage they all just live in different driveways. Not to sound like a dick, but the arguement about the cause or proper term for “warped” rotors is just silly. It’s a commonly occuring problem with 2 solutions, either turn the rotor/drum on a lathe if there is enough material or replace it. Either which way if the rotors are the source of your problem, then the vibration should change with brake applications. Generally light pedal pressure after the brakes have been used a few times to warm them up.
Are bad struts a possibility? Seems like they might be shot
ur truck is totalled…lets just face the truth here pal
no, its just almost at 100k
yep… time to say bye bye, or just keep throwing money into it every month
Im keeping it. Getting rid of it is not an option.
I would be very surprised if that was the cause of your problem. Did you have Jon check the front end when he did the rear axle?
Jellies , shut up lol . It’s fine ya need some good break work. Not backyard done . I’ll drive and see what it needs this weekend .
alright, cool. Its probably nothing but Im just weird about it. Im free Saturday.
I always do my own brakes but havent done more than lube up the slides and the backs of the pads on the front. Rears were new last fall.
In the future try cleaning up the slides, carriers and the axle mounting surface. You’ll be glad you did.
I wire brushed the slides and shit before lubing them and even wire brushed the rear hubs under the rotors. Front rotors havent been off since Ive owned the truck.
Question… for all you hot spot pad depositor thinking people… Lets reverse engineer this a little to find the problem…
-Pad material is bonded to the rotor in certain places, thus changing the run out you feel in the pedal.
-Pad material is bonded to hot spots
-hot spots could come from things like HIGH spots, where the pad is hanging on and keeping friction all the time.
-Also the word spots implies its not the entire surface, another words its not a uniformed surface to begin with!
Its like the chicken before the egg, and once you start it just gets worse.
If you think the pad is getting deposited on the rotor, what you are saying the underlying steel rotor is still 100% straight and true, so the “warp” you feel and see is the mountains of pad material welded to the rotor surface?
If thats true, take a grinding disk that will eat the softer pad material, but not the harder rotor… grind it off, without altering the rotor’s original surface and toss it on a lathe or rotary table and a gauge. I doubt it will still be flat!
My old Axxis MetalMasters were the worst for this. The rotors on my car currently were used with them, and would pulse like bastards. Then I went to WGI with porterfield R4s (Not R4S). They pulsed for maybe 3 or 4 stops and smoothed right out. Been fine since.
Eat it turds.
+1 Benny.
Also, Mike, a lot of times think of when someone’s coming off a short off ramp where they have the brakes working the entire ramp and then at the stop light they continue holding the pad against the rotor. Think exit 15 coming from South.
That’s usually how you get pad deposits: by holding the pad against a very hot rotor that is not spinning.
RGR that. for sure I can see that, so it would put pad on the rotor on say 1/3 of the surface (surface under the caliper at the light).
Or better yet, they do that and they are the creepers… screeching hault, hold on the break hard, creep forward a few inches, stop, creep, stop, creep, light goes green, creep, stop, car ahead moves a little so they gun it, and stop again. LOL Embedding pad all over that rotor unevenly.
You guys are doing it all wrong. Just slam the brakes and lock them up every time. They won’t even get hot!
MY FUCKING PHONE LOST MY VIDS or I would already have posted it
I recorded some girl trail braking her car for MILES up and down hills, away from lights… etc… for like 5 minutes. I wanted to give her my card and replace her brakes every oil change for her! lol
Read the second link that vlad posted, its from stoptechs website. Between them and Carroll Smith they might know a little bit about brakes.
I used to be ignorant too…
Now Im leaning more towards a motor/spark type issue. It sometimes kicks in at idle too.
Slight annoyance but sometimes its more noticeable, especially the past few mornings when its been cold.