I’ve got a few questions (I’m welding up my floor/frame on the 240 I just got <_<):
1- What is a decent Mig setup for not a ton of money? I’ve seen the Mastercraft Mig, the Lincoln Electric 140, The Hobart 125/140, and some other Princess Auto/TSC ones. Anyone have any suggestions on what one would be the best buy?
2- Does anyone know where to get POR-15? Preferably in the London/St. Thomas area.
3- What thickness of Metal for welding the Floor and the Frame rails? I heard 18/20 for the frame, and 14 or something for the floor. I don’t remember where I read it though :/:.
If for some reason you have anything helpful to add that you think I might want to know, then post it up. I’ve seen a bunch of Project threads before, but I probably missed something that someone might have bookmarked.
flux core is fine and works awsome when set up correctly. there cheap to. just get one with ajustable heat and feed none of that " 1 2 3" dial BS
id just go with some 1/8 on the frame its 30 bucks for 4 feet of 4x4 channel and works grate. ruski method… if you have to build somthing build it stronger than it needs to be.
1- the lincon is ok get somthing with gas if you can. flux core is shit. bad penitration and clumply welds = welds breaking and cracking if you are on a buget look for a used one you can get 2 year old ones for like half retail once you have used both there there is no comparison
2-?
3- 16-18 gauge is prefered for floor anything thicker will not form easly for curves ect.
use 14 or thicker for the frame as you want as much strength as your welder will weld
ps the lower the gauge metal the thicker it is
also make shure whatever welder you get has enough amperage to weld the material you are using
for forming metal a crappy hammer and dolly set from princess auto will work to start out. get the peice close tack it in and beat the crap out of it as you weld it down hot metal forms easly
Crappy Tire has the Lincoln on sale this week, so I’ll probably pick it up =0.
2-?
POR-15 is a brush-on coating for preventing rust. Sort of like roll-on bedliner, but thinner I think. I think the only way to get it is to order it online though :/:
3- 16-18 gauge is prefered for floor anything thicker will not form easly for curves ect.
use 14 or thicker for the frame as you want as much strength as your welder will weld
ps the lower the gauge metal the thicker it is
also make shure whatever welder you get has enough amperage to weld the material you are using
for forming metal a crappy hammer and dolly set from princess auto will work to start out. get the peice close tack it in and beat the crap out of it as you weld it down hot metal forms easly
hope that helps
Bah, in my head I knew that the lower the number the thicker, but somehow still typed it out backwards :(. Thanks for the advice, it was pretty helpful. Any particular hammer type you’d suggest getting, or do they have one specifically for bending the crap out of metal? Yeah, I’m a bit of a noobie <_<.
yea pick up that lincon, its great with the flux core. yea bottle is better, but flux core works. Flux core is easy to set up and is more portable. As for it giving crappy welds is BS. i welded my frame with a Lincoln migpak 100 (Princess auto special) with flux core, and it works great. Dont forget your gloves, mig pliers are good, extra wire and tips. Also having a auto darkening helmet really works good for welding the frame(small space, no room to keep flipping helmet). You can get everything at princess auto. The welds are strong and clean. Just take your time and do multiple passes and PREP PREP PREP.99% of a good wels is in the prep work.
As for the frame, i used 1/8" steel that i cut with a grinder and used heat to bend it to the template i made.
For the floor, use any sheet metal you may have, over lap the seams then tar and tack the edges. works good and will pass saftey.
P.S. Take your time, make a good template then prep your work really well. A rushed job will cause your day to be longer. Over all for welding for me was 4hr including prep. let me know if you need any more tips. been there many times.
CLEAN, CLEAN, CLEAN the area your welding. That makes for a strong weld that doesn’t have porosity. I’ve been learning how to weld the last couple months and most of the time when it doesn’t work out it is because the surface has oils and crap on the surface that doesn’tlet the puddle penetrate the metal and you get porosity.
And, Flux core sucks. You need a shielding gas for a weld to look nice and have strength. I wont weld without it but that me. Probably be about 300 bucks to get setup with a bottle and regulator though.
I spent over 1200 on my welding setup but that was a 220v welder, a half bottle and a good auto mask. You don’t need to spend that much but the welder you use makes a BIG difference.
Where I had worked last year we did both flux and mig welding. Flux welds look like shit, but they were fairly strong and when cleaned up, didn’t look like total ass. I’ve got a rental place near me that rents bottles and gas, so I’ll look into getting some stuff from them, and just picking up a welder. I’d pick up a 220v, but I don’t have a plug to use it with .
I’ve got an auto mask, definitely important. Doesn’t work so hot for Tig welding though. I had to spend like 30 minutes getting the setup right on it, ugh.
Orly? I’ll check it out, I’ve got a carquest in the area.
The only thing I’m worried about is dealing with the double metal layers. When I bought the car I hadn’t realized it was doubled up, that’s really strange. A lot of the holes I have only are in the floor, not the underbody, so I guess that’s good-ish? o_O
There’s a BIG misunderstanding about MIG Vs. Flux Core…
Flux core is FAR SUPERIOR to mig welding IF!!! You are using a shielding gas such as CO2.
I haven’t read all these posts. But the best thing you could do is buy something that is 220v minimum. It will allow you to use a higher amperage setting with drawing as much amperage vs. the same setting in a 110v outlet.
I’m not gonna type much more cuz I’ll end up starting an argument with someone most likely! lol
i have a 220 tig, 220 mig flux, 220 mig (argon), stick welder flame welding ect…
personaly, if you take the time to set up the flux core just perfect i like it better than a mig with argon. ( on your cheaper end welders) if you go buy a 4000 dollar setup than thats a different story.
iv made frame patches from stainless plate with a grinder, 1/4 inch plate and a oxi torch and much more… but to be honest the best i ever did was get some 1/8 inch 4x4 angle and weld it together, cut a pie slice, bend it in a bearing press (cold bending>hot bending) and weld the seam… but that took 4 hours of mesurments alone…
learn the flusx core. if you can master that nothings out of your reach… just like learing how to drive stick if you have never driven before…
well i guess it depends on whos welding. i know many people that can make the weld the same no matter what type. for people that say flux core looks bad and in hard to use is experienced. if you know what your doing and how to weld it can be the same.
i have a 110v one and when welding the 1/8 plate to the frame i was only on the 2nd lowest power setting when i did mine. just practice and make it work. do your research and spend time welding on the bench then move to the car when your conformable. i could not break down to pay the extra cash. id rather spend it on car parts or more metal.
I’m a welder and I would go TIG 220 its the nicest weld and remember to clean as well as leave a bit of space all around your patch about 1/16" so when you weld it you can guarantee full penetration.
Good luck with your project and post pics when your done.
it doesnt hurt to disconnect the battery especially with flux core the polars are reversed sending amps through all the grounds on the car stay away from the gas tank if you can. if your car leaks fuel or smells like fuel dont weld anywhere near it
dont lay on the floor of a dairy and tig weld under a stainless machine thats touching the floor that some dumb fucking worker sprays everything with water when you tell him not to
I ALWAYS disconnect the battery and ECU. I never take a chance with an ECU or battery.
About the gas tank. Well if it’s a S13 hatch it’s not a big deal removing if it’s empty. A S13 coupe and S14 on the other… F’ that. To much work removing those from those two cars.
And I bleive it’s TIG that has the polaratie’s reversed. Try TIG welding without a ground attatched to the work piece. Then touch the metal while welding… lol
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