Went out for some folding chairs

Quick update

Took a ride out to Rochester to pick up two 16" Firebird ABS wheels. I really don’t plan on taking this car to the drag strip - but I guess if I ever get serious I can stick a drag radial on them.

https://c5.staticflickr.com/9/8661/29940543740_f254b23c26_b.jpg1003162108 by Norbert Ogiba, on Flickr

They fit without any modification - extremely close on the spindle but doesn’t touch. The ball joint dust caps also cleared. Miles of room on the calipers. They look goofy.

https://c7.staticflickr.com/6/5295/30122109582_6c8ea1a8fd_b.jpg1004161855 by Norbert Ogiba, on Flickr

Tiny sized tire (225/60/16) makes for a fun time on the street.
https://c4.staticflickr.com/6/5549/30240836915_cda9cd4743_b.jpgreceived_10103371545198348 by Norbert Ogiba, on Flickr

Installed these as a track-only option - and bedded in on the street.

Amazing braking force when warmed up. but have pretty disappointing cold initial bite. They make a LOT of dust! This is just a few short drives on the street with some aggressive stops/bedding in.

https://c8.staticflickr.com/9/8560/29607606303_f8b86cfc3d_b.jpg0923161626 by Norbert Ogiba, on Flickr

https://c4.staticflickr.com/9/8610/29607605963_441a85a66f_b.jpg0925161846 by Norbert Ogiba, on Flickr

Took apart the passenger wheel well
https://c7.staticflickr.com/6/5169/30202271446_6a614e93fe_b.jpg1009161148 by Norbert Ogiba, on Flickr

So I could ship this guy out for a tune over at ECS in NJ.
https://c5.staticflickr.com/6/5211/30122108492_82bc67d306_b.jpg1009161149 by Norbert Ogiba, on Flickr

Been running on the stock tune this whole season despite having longtubes, LS6 intake, catless x-pipe, Z06 Ti’s, zip tie modded intake, etc. So, hopefully the car shows some gains as a result of the tuning.

nice… what sort of power are you expecting… little under 400?

pics of the turbo?

Not sure really. Other guys with this combo generally make around 350whp, so I’d be happy with that. No plans to dyno it before/after, maybe I’ll throw it on the rollers if the Lancaster gang has a fall dyno day. I am really trying to get out to more track/road course days but hate going alone. Also still debating doing a 4.10 gear swap this winter but I think that money would be better spent towards a lower mileage Z06 as those are starting to go up in value. Or I might get bored and say screw it all and go with another project.

Oh snap seriously? Congrats!

Lol not yet but soon. Probably next year

found some pics on my camera from a month or two ago…

Original tail light lenses had seen much wear.

https://c5.staticflickr.com/1/272/31823613980_bf8409eb9c_b.jpg_DSC7559 by Norbert Ogiba, on Flickr

So out they came for some TLC with the polisher.

https://c2.staticflickr.com/1/430/32080814241_52092cba86_b.jpg_DSC7561 by Norbert Ogiba, on Flickr

https://c2.staticflickr.com/1/660/32080799281_34eef89b48_b.jpg_DSC7562 by Norbert Ogiba, on Flickr

https://c7.staticflickr.com/1/509/32050401382_a19ff423ee_b.jpg_DSC7588 by Norbert Ogiba, on Flickr

I swear this stuff is magical, here are some befores and afters.

https://c8.staticflickr.com/1/465/31388844383_3d04874317_b.jpg_DSC7573 by Norbert Ogiba, on Flickr

https://c4.staticflickr.com/1/568/32199079955_9861643511_b.jpg_DSC7575 by Norbert Ogiba, on Flickr

https://c8.staticflickr.com/1/665/32199057095_13ddb8da4e_b.jpg_DSC7578 by Norbert Ogiba, on Flickr

Gave it a whirl on the LED 3rd brake light too.

https://c6.staticflickr.com/1/778/31388857813_501164ca54_b.jpg_DSC7572 by Norbert Ogiba, on Flickr

I built a cabin partition that separates the passenger area from the “trunk” out of MDF and covered it in carpet material. It stops all my stuff from flying around and also reduces the noise from the exhaust/rear tire wells.

https://c2.staticflickr.com/1/581/32199043865_40fbd736a6_b.jpg_DSC7581 by Norbert Ogiba, on Flickr

https://c6.staticflickr.com/1/443/32199027245_2e8021d6fe_b.jpg_DSC7582 by Norbert Ogiba, on Flickr

https://c4.staticflickr.com/1/671/32199010395_3263c203a6_b.jpg_DSC7586 by Norbert Ogiba, on Flickr

Installed a trailer hitch I had bought over the summer

https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5570/31362846265_260eb52fc7_b.jpg1125162001 by Norbert Ogiba, on Flickr

and had to make sure it worked correctly.

https://c4.staticflickr.com/6/5782/31362844075_1dbeb66dae_b.jpg1126161540 by Norbert Ogiba, on Flickr

https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5469/31248046161_ddf27ce6b4_b.jpg1126161540b by Norbert Ogiba, on Flickr

I am planning on some upgrades to the rear diff over the winter and might change up the exhaust as well. Still keeping the cutouts, might try a new location for them to reduce drone when they’re open. We shall see.

Love the trailer hook :tup:

Disregard

I too love the trailer hitch on a car you would not expect to see it on…

:tup:

@Norb_O it may just be me but the picture links in your latest post are dead. FYI

https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRCIazBys1l0fQHgc0XKi6n8tsWLwU3zFz3ZpTSKi96Yfi33t3Jow

Started my annual winter project of “take a perfectly good running vehicle and take it apart”

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/329/32412267395_d2d36ea452_b.jpg0114171752 by Norbert Ogiba, on Flickr

Midpipes and exhaust removed. Now on to 36 of these little bastards. Thank god for power tools. Stiffening plate was not as stiff as I imagined it would be.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/339/31569768314_b80de5864b_b.jpg0115171250a by Norbert Ogiba, on Flickr

Begin the parts pile.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/6/5786/31569754044_f717236f45_b.jpg0115171808 by Norbert Ogiba, on Flickr

No pictures of the physical removal of the drivetrain, but it came out pretty easily.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/429/32262019062_2629e7fd2b_b.jpg0115171808a by Norbert Ogiba, on Flickr

Note the generous amounts of kitty litter on the ground. Gotta drain diff fluid before dropping assy next time. When the axles get pulled out of the trans, and you wiggle the whole thing side to side, she tends to puke out the oil.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/308/32034798320_44b8107e90_b.jpg0115171808b by Norbert Ogiba, on Flickr

It’s beyond me how some of this junk ended up on top of the diff, short of being deposited by a critter. All components will get scrubbed before going back in the car.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/704/32034793760_e12565f323_b.jpg0115171808c by Norbert Ogiba, on Flickr

Separated the diff/torque tube/trans from the subframe - it’s only held together with 2 bolts. The centrally located diff mount does a very poor job of holding a rigid connection between the subframe and drivetrain.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/421/32291957161_799849b094_b.jpg0115171814 by Norbert Ogiba, on Flickr

I don’t want solid mounts in this car so one of these is definitely in my future

http://www.shop.hoosierpe.com/images/1410202830377-1947075288.jpeg

http://www.shop.hoosierpe.com/images/14102028387451569592303.jpeg

So we finally have all this junk

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/542/31601162583_5519b53a51_b.jpg0115171814a by Norbert Ogiba, on Flickr

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/545/32291953621_2aca466e97_b.jpg0117171935 by Norbert Ogiba, on Flickr

Tucked away so wife can have her spot back until parts start coming in.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/282/32034780460_1d92c7d412_b.jpg0117172003 by Norbert Ogiba, on Flickr

The plan right now is an LS7 clutch combo, torque tube rebuild (guibos, bearings), and a 4.10 diff (either send my stocker out or get my hands on a DTE built unit). Anything that doesn’t look ok will get replaced with OEM or better parts. I’ll probably end up modifying the C6Z06 shifter to have no slop as well - the lower box bushings wear out over time. Already have the Tick clutch MC but I’ll replace the slave with a new OEM and throw in a remote bleeder too.

If I really get bored I can investigate the T56 internal centering detents - the 1-2 position snaps back to neutral just fine, but the 5-6 stays put in between those gates unless you snap back to 3-4. The external linkage to the T56 also has some tiny amount of slop in it, but that translates to much more when you multiply by the length of the shifter. I guess I was just spoiled by BMW shifters in the past.

Looking good Norb. If you ever need a 3rd or 4th hand let me know. I always have some cold beer also.

Nice! :tup:

@llink78
come over any time. I still think you should buy my Firecat.

I too have lots of beer that needs drinking…

I actually did a refurb on the C6Z lower box when I bought it used, before even installing it in the car for the first time. It needed a thorough cleaning and lubrication, and that did help the general smoothness of the action, but didn’t do anything for the sloppiness.

Here is my train of thought and plan of attack:

The plastic bushings that hold the “yoke” shaft have a 1/16" of slop in them which translates to play in the shift knob when in neutral, or any gear really. They will be replaced with either delrin or bronze bushings that will provide a much more solid “hold” on the shaft.

The C6 Upper box looked to be fine. I found that the black “cup” that rides in the lower “receiver” has no slop and moves very freely.

With the entire drivetrain removed from the car (minus engine), the shift linkage (with no shifter attached) still does not spring back from 5-6 to center. This rules out the shifter as causing my centering issue, although the shifter still contributes to the slop.

I bolted the shifter assembly back onto the torque tube to visualize what the shift linkage was doing, and chase down the slop. This video shows the bushing wear in the lower box. The left to right wiggling of the shift knob/lever at the end of the video has no effect on movement of components in the trans - it’s all slop in the joint at the rear bellhousing! Any similar front/rear movement of the shift knob/lever has equal slop that is a result of the worn bushings inside the lower box.

There is also lots of play evident in the joint assembly right before the shift linkage enters the transmission. It looks to be held together with roll pins, I have not yet disassembled that area.

Of course I COULD purchase a (relatively) expensive aftermarket shifter such as MGW, Hinson, Kirban that has internal centering springs, but I feel that they are somewhat of a band aid to the pre-existing condition inside the transmission. They also tend to be very stiff and the throw is excessively short, which makes the effort go way up. I drive my car 99% on the street with a couple track days a year so an easy, low effort throw is important.

So the final list of suspects, working towards the back of the car:

C6 Lower box mount bushings (that mount the box to the torque tube) - non issue. These are solid on my C6Z shifter. No movement.

C6 Lower box shaft bushings - cause shifter sloppiness. Plan to install new bronze bushings custom sized to my yoke, press fit into box. Not too bad of a job, will require some machining.

T56 Shift linkage to trans - cause shifter sloppiness. Need to investigate, there looks to be a brass bushing inside a mini u-joint that is worn.

C5 T56 internal centering spring - causes shifter not to snap back to neutral from the 5-6 gate (in my case). Again, an aftermarket shifter might help, but I want to get to the root cause. I initially thought this might be caused by the fore-aft detent ball that rides on top of the shift gate (NOT the detent ball that is altered by the anti-venom mod)

So I mounted up my T56 on the worktable.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/560/32157956600_cdb3843a8d_h.jpg0125171925 by Norbert Ogiba, on Flickr

After pulling the rear tail housing case I visually verified that the shift detent ball wasn’t binding up. This is not my picture, just an example of the guide plate that the lower detent ball rides in. I can’t get the shift rail block off yet to verify if the ball is physically free, but that will come later.

According to Bill Curlee: "There is a U shaped spring on the bottom plate that returns the shifter back to the center: " Through the process of elimination, this must be what is causing my shifter not to return back to center.

Tailhousing off.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/410/32384464662_027f9bcb87_h.jpg0125171930 by Norbert Ogiba, on Flickr

I don’t know if someone has gone through this trans in its life, but the buildup on the magnets didn’t look TOO bad for 115k. I will be removing and cleaning these prior to reassembly. For what it’s worth, I did replace the trans fluid with Dexron III ATF 1 year and 10K miles ago, and it looked brand new while draining.

That’s where I left off for the night, my snap ring pliers were not big enough to handle the rings on the reverse shaft. More to come tonight.

Nice work!

I’m jealous. I wish I had the time to dig into that kind of stuff. My 99 Silverado really needs a turbo kit. LOL

You’re a brave man pulling that trans apart. That is usually where I give up and pay someone to do that work.

X…

There is nothing Norb cant do when fueled by PBR and dark liquor.

Taking things apart is easy, putting it back together without leftover pieces is not…
My rationale was that the transmission really didn’t need a rebuild, just a couple things replaced inside like that centering spring. I found some broken nylon shift fork pads too so those will get replaced with bronze. Not going to touch too much else. Definitely not interested in setting clearances or any crap like that.

I sent out my stock 3.42 diff yesterday to be gone through and have 4.10s installed. Now THAT, I didn’t wanna touch, lol. Too many chances for noise/whining/broken gears.

Sure there is, just ask my wife.

I’m just trying to keep up with whatever 2 tone pile you buy next!