Werid problem...Hicas light, overheating, powerstearing lost, shutoff and wont start.

SON240sx Automotive
1

Ok so heres the story.

I had my swap done on saturday through to sunday night. Went successfully. Got the new ka24de in and the 5speed tranny (automatic to manual). We had to use my old hicas power stearing pump from my old ka and put it on the new ka…(so we put a hicas pump on a non hicas engine…which shouldnt have mattered). Yes we replaced the driveshafts and what not…etc.

So with everything in and finished im off…about 5 minutes into the drive my i notice the hicas light has come on, and my speedo doesnt work…now i will be snapping on someone who sold me this speedsensor seeing as how my cruise control and kilometers dont work aswell. So the hicas light is on and i didnt think to much of it seeing as how we had to drain the power stearing fluid and refil it so i figured it would fix it self.

Im about 5 min away from my exit and i look down to my cluster to notice my engine temp wayyyy up and overheating…not only that, but my buddy noticed faint bits of smoke coming from the passenger side, mid way up the hood. I pull off and into the walmart parking lot. I turn off the car, and pop the hood…keep in mind freezing winds, 10 30 at night, and its fucking cold. Smoke comes out as i open the hood, i look over to the coolent and its empty…all of it has overflowed and evaporated. I let the car cool down after about 20 min and manage to get it home by throwing in some coolent from the closest gas station. As im turn on the car and drive away, my powerstearing has no longer become functional…fuck. I get home non the less…the next day we diagnose the problems and come to find that my powerstearing belt is chewed up now. After thinking it over he’s come to the assumption he had put the belt on the outer rivet of the hicas pump rather than the inner rivet causing the belt off course, thus shredding it and disallowing both the ps pully, and water pump pully to turn…thus overheating the car.

So we he gets the new belt on, and in the right position this time, and we fill up all fluids…coolent, ps…etc. Drive it around the block for about 5 minutes and everythings fine. I let it idle in my driveway for about another 5 minutes. After he leaves im sitting in the car and about to put it into my regular spot on the drieway, and i happend to look down to see my hicas light on…and just at that moment does my deck decide to turn off than on, and my cluster lights dim. I pull into my spot and turn the car off…as i try to turn it back on it felt as if the battery was dead…tried again and no luck…wouldnt turn over. It ticked but wouldnt turn over.

I called him and we talked it over to come to an assumption it may have been the power stearing pump…which i now am in disbelief because of one reason. About an hour ago i decided to go out to the car to see what exactly the ticking noise was, weather it was the alternator or the battery. Couldnt have been the batter because my lights would still come on. So i turn the key, and to my confusion it turned over without any hesitation. Man was i confused. So i turned it off right away, and started it again…and again, no problem. So i let it idle…poped the hood and examed to see if anything strange was arising…nothing, seemed fine. No hicas light, no power stearing noises, belt that was chewed was in order…everything was fine. So i drove it around for a bit…about 10 minutes of constant driving and rpm changes…and it seemed fine, didnt overheat and at no point did the hicas light come on. So i toped up the ps fluid just incase and it seemed alright, no leaks under the car nothing.

Now im still confused as to WHY all of a sudden after fixing the problem my deck turned off than on, my lights dimmed, and after turning the car off…it wouldnt turn over…any ideas?

2

oh man, i didn’t know the lights dimmed and it was a lack of power kind of non starting. for some reason it sounded to me like the engine just refused to turn over, so i thought that the PS pump had seized since it was making some not-so-pretty noises before. are those noises gone now after driving for a bit?

one thing you may want to do since it’s easy and doesn’t cost anything is clean the battery terminals, just take them off and brush them off with a wire brush if you have one, an old toothbrush would work if you don’t have one. i had a similar problem a couple of times that was just dirty battery terminals. it can cause all sorts of weird electrical problems.

3

Yea, i thought i had mentioned they dimmed. But yea they did, and the ps noise have gone. I also topped up the resevoir last night before taking it for a little drive, and it seems to be holding it fine.

But im still causcious to this problem.

Oh and do you sill wanna come up for the sensor, i’ll still buy it off you.

4

yeah, i’m busy tonight and friday night i think. so it would have to be sometime on the weekend unfortunately. talk to me about it on msn.

5

So anyone have an idea of the problem?

6

i had similer problems… it turned out to be the battery termials just to second simpleminds theory… the belt explains all of your previous issues…when my battery lost its charge i had all the issues you mentions regarding electrical, dropped in a new bat and then the termials wernt getting efficent contact… so i think your good aslong as you clean/replace your terminals

id also cosider replacing the ground with a new wire… just to be safe for the future…

7

Which ground is it…the passenger side one that bolts to the strut mount?

8

kinda sounds like your alternator cut out… is the belt tight?

9

Yup, nice and snug.

10

HIcas belt is 1 grove wider than non-hicas PS belt = unhappy belts

KAde from S14 into s13? did you use a S13 intake mani and temp sensors

are you heater core lines tightened?

11

the engine was from an s13.

12

follow the ground from battery, replace that one… id really recommend replacing all your grounds… any black wire you see replace, you can buy a replacment kit or be like me and get the proper gauge wire, some ends and solder them on the right way. costs maybe $25 bucks in total to do the whole thing right… just takes some time cause you gotta install the connector check the distance to the proper spot cut it right the first time then mark the angle the other connector has to be on the soldier it on right the first time…
if you want all your grounds done sometime i could lend a hand but you would have to come to me… i got soldier and a gun just need wires and connectors

13

Hmm, i’ll let you know seeing as how my buddies parents live in barrie and its not that far.

14

it’s a '92 non hicas motor with a hicas pump on it, used the non hicas belt on the front 3 ribs and the belt got chewed, put it on the rear 3 ribs and it seems to be fine now.

i made sure everything was tight and the car didn’t leak anything prior to the belt letting go and doesn’t leak anything after the belt was replaced so the heater lines are good.

15

So its gotten worse…driving home today as i come to a stop my rpms idle around 500, but when actually stoping they’ll bounce below that and than back up to 500.

So after picking up something im on my way home and i get to the lights and it does it again, except this time wayyyyyy to low. Goes to about 150 and bounces back up…the next set of lights…goes right down and stalls, this continued the whole way home, stalled about 3 times on me, and at one light i got it to stay up, but it was idling at 500 really agressively and rough.

Any thoughts?

16

i think its all a power issue man… check your battery with a volt meter when you turn the car on, should read about 14.2 if charging properly and giving it to the car… and change out your Dizzy, this would explain the low idle(improper fuel combustion to fire the pistons into thier proper level of performance)
also try using carb cleaner on your IACV… shit couldve gotton dirty durig the swap.

17

It would only effect the iacv when the engines cold no?

The bad idle and bouncing starts to happend once the cars engine is warm.

18

how was it after using my maf?

19

It was still hard to tell, i believe it may have been the problem, but still i want to see if anyone else can diagnose the issue.

20

well im having the same prob with my car right now. when it gets warm and i take the load off the motor it idles super low and sometimes stalls. i tryed putting a diff batt in thinking maybe batt was no good def not the case. was told it could be the egr sticking open. but im not sure and haven’t tryed lol. so if you find out besure to let me know.