just had to edit it and add the price huh? ballers buy Pauter or Bildon aluminums.
No, baller = Pankl Titanium GT3 spec rods. At ~$800 per rod it’s a bit much for this motor. Pauters were right up there with my choice too, was 50/50 split between those and the Carrillos. I’ve used the X-beams in quite a few other p-car builds. Damn good rods.
Yeah I tossed the $2400 in there for good measure…Chris paying substantially less for these. Me’s gots connections yo 
Was the reason we got these vs Pauters really
wow ,last i saw a rod like that was in my 93 camaro,s motor .i would deff think that the crank would have been out . good for you it isnt man , well it sucks but now is the time to build it
Like I said, I too would have put money on a bent crank without pause. Would have lost that bet 100%. Not bent but still needs work on #3 journal thrust.
These cranks are really tricky to weld though due to the thin counter cross section. Welding always results in a warp, which needs to be straightened, then stress relieved, then ion nitrided, then machined, then checked…can really add up quick. Gotta submerge arc weld them too to absolutely ensure no contaminates.
~$3600 for a new crank. Can source one for about $2500 
BUT AFTER ALL SAID AND DONE WHATS THE COST DIFF BETWEEN REHABIN THE STOCKER AND NEW ONE
~$1500. I’ve yet to actually mic the damage to the thrust yet. Just performed a rough mag/zyglo inspection on the parts looking for obvious/big damage that I would surely have guess would be there, and wasn’t…
for that much wouldnt it be better for a replacement or it really wont weaken it ,ya know what i mean lolololo
Gone through the proper proceedures no it will not weaken it, however if the cost falls within the 50% mark of replacement then yes I will push to spec a new crank vs a rebuilt one at this power level. One can always sell the core as a rebuildable unit for a mild 930/964 setup and recoup some cost. The 76.4mm cranks are popular amongst those guys. Will work in lots of hybrid setups…any 7R case it’ll drop right in.
The average joe schmoe could(and likely would) just machine the rod thrust down a hair and run a larger clearance. Ain’t gonna happen here…
i dont blame ya ,thats why i went for a all new rotating assembly in mine ,now way im runnin a cut crank with what i am doin
Cutting a crank doesn’t necessarily mean a weaker setup. For example, many performance builders of this motor will actually cut the rod journals of a 76.4mm stroke crank from a Turbo or SC down to the smaller journal specs of the GT3’s(followed by all proper procedures thereafter) Allows use of custom rods in GT3 dimensionality, but with larger 7/16" rod bolts vs the smaller 3/8 size for added strength at RPM and minimize big end distortion. Quite a few of those motors pushing 500+ and spinning 10K+ on the track in RS/RSR-type builds.
All above though is on a crank per crank basis. Not every crank should be cut and as in your case was the better option to go new 
If I’m not happy with this crank it won’t be used.
Edit…got to remember that the material being cut isn’t really the “structural part” of the crank. The strength in crank design lies in the undercut radii/fillets and journal overlaps. It’s lots of engineering and math.
true ,
Seems like the rods are a ‘band aid fix’…I mean, if other cars out there are making 200 more WHP with stock rods, it sounds like poor tuning or something is the culprit.
Would I do the rods while in there? Sure, but I’d also figure out why they bent…I personally don’t think that the fact that this car supposedly made more low end tq, without the assistance of nitrous, was the sole reason the rods bent.
this thing was brutal down low.
just saying.
damn! that sucks!
Agreed, tuning may have been a slight part of this yes, which is why it’s going back. Never once said that it wasn’t going back. One would be stupid not to factor that in. Detonation very well is a factor in the issue, which we will deal with at EPL. If you thought I was simply putting rods in the motor and sending it back out on it’s merry way as a “band aid” fix then you my friend have some clouded judgment towards me. 
Forged rods in these motors are more like some small insurance against punching a hole in a $5,000 case.
This thread was simply about the motor, and the motor alone, but if you’d like me to talk about plans for modifying the injection system to multiport distribution or tuning aspects then I will do so by all means 
I often get shunned for being “too techy” or “too serious” on the forums so
I try not to post too much in a particular thread for everyone to swallow…
Well, off to work…
it’s not shunned, I just call it as I see it, nerd. :rofl
Nope, never thought for a second that you were gonna slap rods in it and let Chris leave like that, sorry if it came across that way:hug IMO, a horrible tune killed it, very little to do with the rods.
Post details on what you want to do to the injection system.
This.
While I dont always know wtf your talking about adam, I’ll at least look it up. Learned quite a bit of random shit from you over the past couple years on this otherwise random forum.
Definitely man, post the deeets. Always like your mad scientist posts. I really need to make it out your way one of these days. I’d also like to hear more about the way that crank can be welded on and then smoothed etc. didn’t know that was possible. You’re full of knowledge dude!