Time to make some custom mounts. Gotta know how fast im going :lol
ETI Fuel cell tank slider… Seriously my last mod till I get a track body
Finally got all my shit together; 1/5 turn throttle tube, moty battey and a raptor shift-light and now I am broke. I guess I will have to race my stock chain for another season…:rofl.
The season is approaching so fast!!! :excited:excited
Dumb question, but don’t want to start a new thread;
I recently serviced the brakes on the bike (new fluid) and had new pads put on the rear.
The old ones were worn (but not all the way down) and weren’t contacting the rotor fully anymore - there was a ring of rust in the middle, on both sides. Guy at the dealer showed me the old pads, they looked like there was a chunk taken out of both in the center where the wear indicator is. WTF? With new pads it’s the same thing - ring of rust in the middle, though brake works fine, and there is no chattering or pulsing. Is it a matter of time till it evens out? Do I need a new rotor? Should I stop worrying?
Shouldve done a new rotor from the get go, Probably ruined the new rear pads.
Do you know or did the mechanic tell you if the rotors are within specs?
Who gives a $ht! about pads? New rotor is $$$, why would I replace it unless I knew it was toast?
They didn’t mention the rotors being a problem at all. It’s more grooved in the rear than the front ones, but besides that it didn’t look like anything was wrong with it - besides not fully contacting the pads.
Since a picture is worth a 1000 words or something along those lines:
[ATTACH]31173[/ATTACH]
It looks like that after a ride today, it’s not flash-rust from overnight.
IMO, it doesn’t look that bad to me. If it is my bike I would just do a quick check to see if the thickness is within spec, if it is I would just call it a day.
put a razor blade across the surface, inside the pad grove ofcourse. I bet the area that looks rusty is a cunt hair below the blade edge vs the other areas.
Surprisingly no, there is no gap and I tried a bunch of angles and in different spots. This is weird.
no shit… maybe its somehow contaminated metal on the rotor in just that spot? thats very weird. eitherway its nothing to lose sleep over but its one of those “wtf” is going on things.
Oleg, if the brakes work then I wouldn’t worry about it. New rotors are $$$.
You could try cleaning the rotors with a Scotchbrite pad and some brake cleaner and see if that ring of rust comes back.
FWIW, I read an article that many brake cleaners leaves residue that promote pad glazing if used to clean rotor; the article recommends using acetone or denatured alcohol.
Thanks for the info. I wish I knew that before I spent 2 hrs cleaning my rotors and pads on monday, trying to get rid of a slow speed squeak that I’ve had for months lol
Thanks guys, I’ll try the Scotchbrite and alcohol and report when I get to ride it.
Might be a while with this weather, we need rain for sure, but not in the middle of April! Where’s all the warmth at?!
EDIT:
Mystery is solved, 'twas elementary my dear Watson.
A couple of weeks ago I took off without removing the disc lock (it was a long work day, I wasn’t thinking clearly) - and just now I noticed where there is a raised area of shiny metal around one of the cross-drilled holes - the pin of the lock dented it slightly.
Explains why that area stopped getting contact on both sides of the rotor, also explains why the old pads were screwed up around the wear indicator - the raised area caught the edges.
I’ll need to file it down, hopefully it didn’t screw up the new pads too much.
Pads are relatively cheap, I would just replace them anyway just to be safe.
I don’t have a very good feeling about this camera mounting location…:ohnoes:rofl:ponder
Id’ get a clamp instead of a suction cup and fix it to the fairing stay near the gauges instead.
Don’t think it’s the pads.
I got the bright idea to sharpie the whole surface of the rotor and see where it doesn’t contact, and there are lines like on the previous photos, but they are not continuous all the way around, which makes me think the rotor could be warped. Except I don’t have any symptoms of a warped rotor. I think I’ll just leave it as is until it starts giving me some kind of problems, then I’ll know what needs fixing.