heres an idea i been playing around with for alittle while… i had this planned out for about a year now just never had the money to do it yet and still dont cuz of school and other stuff LOL
but here it goes
either 383-388 cubes, depending on the over bore… i’m thinking of a 388 as its different from a 383 and abit more cubes LOL
around 10.5 to 1 compression
Trick flow 195 cc or the new Patriot 195cc small block heads. maybe AFR 190/195’s if i could score them for cheap
i wanna go holley commander 950 computer system too so its easier to tune than the stock 89 ecm
as for the cam, i was thinking either the new XFI fuel injection series from comp cams, the 280XFI which is 280/288 advertised duration, and 230/236 duration at .050" lift and .576/.570" lift and i think thats with 1.6 rockers or so… i’d might run 1.5’s or those… its on a 113lsa so its fuel injection friendly
this should make power to about 6000rpms. does this sound about right? i’m shootin for 400whp or close to it. with a 700r4 trans, i’m thinking more like 380-390rwhp. it still should be very streetable
or else step up to something like the XE288HR but custom grind it on a 113ish LSA. its a 236/242 cam with .520/.540 lift on 1.5 rockers. a recent mag with the same setup i planned with this cam made 501hp on crank at 5900rpms.
would this be safe to run on a cast rotating assembly? like eagle cast crank and I beam rods and maybe forged pistons? or do i need to go forged for those rpms?
I’m more into Fords, not really into chevys and I’m no expert but here goes.
I wouldn’t pick overbore on what sounds cool, if you can only bore so big so if you max it out the first time you can’t bore it again.
10.5 sounds fine to me
Heads seem way too small to me to make 400 to the wheels through an automatic.
Injectors are probably on the small side
don’t know anything about chevy intake manifolds. If it weren’t for the eco weenies I would probably go with a carb.
This is probably the best advice in this post. As far as cam don’t buy an off the shelf cam unless you know what you are doing and not many people do. Pay the extra 150 bucks for a custom and find someone who really knows what they are doing. If you involve them early in your project the will probably also give you free advice on what heads, intake manifold, exhaust size, injector size and everything else to reach your goal.
well just because i’m goin fuel injection doesnt mean its gonna be smog legal… its not gonna be… i’ll remove all that stuff and the intake doesnt have an EGR crossover nor provisions for one.
this is a stealth ram
Holley says its 30lb injectors are good to 480hp… dependin on fuel pressure, it should be good to use on a 450hp application. i’d say 36 are perfect for the 450-500hp range tho so the injectors are gettin over worked with too much pressure. the intake is good to over 6000 rpms. basically a dual carb manifold with a plenum on top and drilled for fuel injection.
the extreme energy 288HR cam was used with mild ported trick flow 195’s to make 501hp in a TPI intake shootout comparison in a magazine. i wanted to go next size down so its more streetable and was lookin to make 450-475ish on motor. i think 470 is easily doable which would put me at near 375ish at the wheels if assuming 20% drivetrain loss. i’d be happy with that. else if i do go bigger cam it should be near 500crank and 400wheel hp. I drive the car less than 5K miles a year so i’m not too worried with gas and streetability, but i want it to be somewhat good.
Alot of guys have been seein good success with comp cams xtreme energy grinds and the new XFI series has been specially designed with the FAST fuel injection ppl to make great power in fuel injection applications. i’m excited to try these cams out.
Like I said I don’t know much chevy stuff, I was bored so i looked up some specs on that stuff and tried to equate it to ford stuff.
Those heads flow between a SBF aft 165 and 185, people run afr 185s on 302s with good results.
With your build I was thinking like building a ford 393. I would put AFR 205 race heads on a 393. 290 CFM intake at .500 lift, those trick flows do 250 CFM.
I would also seriously consider getting a custom cam from someone that knows their stuff. you can be talking 20-30 horse difference and better driveability with the correct cam. 150 bucks for 30 horse is very cheap.
idk, trick flows do seem ok… they flow more like 260’s from what i heard/seen in a few tests… 260 should be more than enough to feed 450-475hp.
i’ll try to go AFR 195’s or so if i can score them cheaper, or maybe brodix heads.
i’ll also look into a custom cam grind when the time comes. this will be later down the road, but i might have the intake later this year so its a start.
you got that right quik… i’m torn between this and a Ls1 swap… as it will probly cost about the same
thing is, i got a fresh 700r4 trans and torque converter in the car now and i dont think i could use that for the LS1… atleast not the trans itself but maybe the torque converter? even then, 2800 stall isnt a whole lot and i’d be better with 3500 or so.
and i dont know jack about LS1 motors… but i’d love to learn more about them. i know alittle about my TPI motor and know small block fuel injection… as i been on the forums over at thirdgen.org for a few years now and i seen alot of good combos and stuff. i’m learning abit at a time.
brian over at JJ’s said i could probly get a complete LS1 for anywhere from 2000 bucks on up depending on mileage. swap parts is like another grand… and then i’d have to look into other small things that might come up.
sammy ran a 700r4. they are the same tranny basically and i do believe you can run the 700r4 but have to do something with tunning or etc. youll need to either search that or ask sammy
LS1 is better off and the gains you get for just a cam is crazy
i’lll have to weigh the costs of each setup… i know the swap does cost alot since there is alot of small stuff i gotta do to get it setup right and work together.
i would really like to have that T56 in there tho…
you can use the 700r4, but you will need either, a spacer for the flywheel crank so the torque convertor hub fit in, or you can get a torque convertor that has the ls1 style hub on it.
the only part that worries me is the TV cable… i have heard one guy not being able to hook his TV cable to the LS1 so he didnt use one… which isnt really good since its suppose to use one. but i guess it still worked? not sure what i’d do there
and then i gotta look at gages for the car as well. i got mechanical speedo, and i wouldnt want to reuse my stock tach.
how much would you charge for labor on a LS1 install, if i got all the parts needed for it?
