LoL, “I’m with stupid” means I agree with You…
I’m not a fan of the bolt in and believe he could get a decent 4pt locally for less that would be as structural.
Calm down…
Bolts are bad.
The holes that they go into are probably going to wear quickly with the body flexing around turns and just in general driving.
Bolts themselves, I don’t trust either.
Gforce was offering their 4pt wled in cages for 420, which is fine for me… accept they wont do it for lik 8 months if that… i know dre has been waiting over a year
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i have only lived in the stick for 1 year. i’m a city mouse, not a country mouse
sorry about your friends sister. its still a little amuzing to picture a rabid squirl and jake under the lawn tractor -
viper, your engine will not make anywhere near that power on pump gas. i dont care if its built to handle elevendy billion hp detonation will kill it, or you will pull too much timing and melt something.
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my problem? that cage looks like shit. its about as useful as ghost flames. after seeing a set of bride knock off seats i would be looking into some real seats. it will be money better spent.
god ur such a dick… u know nothing about my engine and what it has done in the past in korea, i dont know why i bother going back and forth with you, u just never seem to listen
what your engine has done in korea?
you post up your 400whp dyno and i will buy you a beer.
from what your last dyno looked like and from what i know about tuning 400+whp cars you will not make that power on pump and keep it together long.
anywho, get the apc cage, blow up your engine, and make me right.
thanks
To come to G-Force’s defense (to a degree), they have bigger fish to fry and not much room on their frying pan. They have a small crew in a small shop trying to work on ~6 second drag cars in the $50k range. A < $500 roll cage is not going to be high on their priorities.
Now, to counter my own point, perhaps they could whip out a few roll cages by hiring some cheap labor to cut and shape parts, and save the welds for the pro (Jim).
I know they’re usually busy during race season (now), so I can see the wait being a few months. They just dominated first place in Cayuga with their car, so I would expect them to be pretty focused on winning some more races, and not so focused on roll cages for street cars.
If you’re going to do lots of track days (road course) then having a good cage, racing seats, properly mounted 5 or 6 point harnesses with 3" main belts, and a good helmet are a great idea.
Don’t get that cage it looks terrible. G-Force makes great cages which I’m sure are worth the wait and expense. Lee from Hybrid is going to start making cages soon too.
by his drag radial on the street thread :bloated: i can only assume this is for drag
if safty is an issue run fucking street tires on the street.
edit: oh, and im not a dick… i honest
sometimes the truth hurts
agreed
If you were using a bolt in cage the bolts should be double shear, that is two bolts 90* of each other.
There is another local resource that will be building cages very very soon. I only know of SCCA road racing requirements (6 - 8 point), which is 50X better than that death trap.
All you want is just a main hoop attached at the rear struts or do you want a real cage?
same pistons/rods as my car
turbonetics 60-1 turbo
3" exhaust
haltech e6k
mild headwork and an airram intake manifold
he spun the car to 7700 because he had an upgraded valvetrain
but the motor is very capable… its basically a 4g63 cousin, the intake and exhaust maniofolds are basically interchangeable (some small shaping of the ports is needed)
Back on topic… I just saw this cage posted on RD, and I to agree the weld-in cage is going to be worth the time and money, unless you just want it to hold you over till you can get the weld-in. It will more than likely help you if you do end up in the shit, much better than no cage at all, but my opinion, wait and get the weld-in, winters coming up quick anyways.
i dunno much about cages to perfectly honest…but that one just doesnt look good to me…not to thrilled on the bolts…i would wait for Lee or G-Force…or you could buy that and just have it welded in the places where it bolts together
Check the legality of that cage (technically thats a 6 point rollbar) for what you plan to be doing. I don’t know dick about road racing sanctioning bodies, but pretty sure that cage isn’t NHRA legal. The front bars are too low, they have to be up around shoulder height. Also must have at least .120" wall thickness. And it has to be welded together, can’t be bolted.
Now, if you’re not going faster than 11.49, it might not be an issue. I don’t know if the track will let you run with an illeagal rollbar if the car is slower than that. OTOH if you’re doing it for your own safety, then none of that is an issue.
But IMHO, if you want a bar, have a good shop custom fit one for you welded together, and that meets NHRA specs. Don’t cheeze out on a bar.
thats not your car. its probably not on pump gas.
and your not even half way there as far as hp.
i take it all with a grain of salt. people from korea post up there 200whp d series dynos too. do they really exist? probably not.
welded cage, bolted suck, no more flaming…
I’d say hold out on the cage until you make it into the 11’s. 11.49 is the cutoff for a cage,I’d invest in a good helmet and harness before getting a cage because that stuff is more important at your current rate of speed.
Do you have a driveshaft loop? Plus if you go faster than 11.49 you’ll need a few other things.Flywheel shield,extinguisher,fireproof jacket,harness.
Do You actually need a DL for a FWD? rather… a Half-shaft loop?
LoL
Seriously?
lol…forgot about that being FWD,so used to RWD shit.:smash2: