I think you mean you will get mechanical boost and electrical others, or at least I hope thats what you meant 
Nope I said it right…heres a link to the description of the electric boost gauge by autometer:
http://www.autometer.com/cat_gaugesize.aspx?sid=59&opid=1
The guage itself:
http://www.autometer.com/cat_gaugedetail.aspx?gid=3502&sid=59
Heres the mechanical ones:
http://www.autometer.com/cat_gaugelist.aspx?sid=59&opid=4&szid=2
Then the oil pressure and water temp I will opt to go cheaper and get mechanical. Yes I see the mechanical boost guage but I am assuming it is the mechanical guage not the electric that was having all the problems.
Am I mistaken somehow on all of this?
I run autometer ultra-lights in the 510.
this is what i’m running for boost gauge. it costs 22 dollars brand new from princess auto. once in a while they will have a few in stock. selectable color :lol:
this one is in bar but mines in psi.
they are junky gauges, but if you are desperate they work for the time being.
Yes its seems to be the mechanical Boost guages that always get fucked up.
don’t some mechanical boost gauges have some way to reset the calibration? or is it the needle itself that slides around its axle a bit making it look like its mis-calibrated?
Hey, I saw guages just like that yesterday, Princess auto FTW !
I predict that beatshack will post this.
don’t some mechanical boost gauges have some way to reset the calibration? or is it the needle itself that slides around its axle a bit making it look like its mis-calibrated?
at 11:50am on november 3rd
not really. autometer is like nascar V8 stuff… its for the old guys.
I have a CF autometer boost gauge, works fine. im planning on getting boost, water temp, oil temp and oil pressure in a different brand/style. might just stick with the autometer
i know the black-back autometer stuff is old school, but what about Autometer Cobalt gauges? anyone have reports of them screwing up?
I wouldn’t be suprised if they are the same guages, just with a differance face and colored LED to be honest. I really like the look of the Nexus stuff, but I have yet to read any reviews on them. I really like how you can set a danger zone and the whole guage changes color if it goes past that point.
This is basically all the shit I run on the dash:
- AUTOMETER Boost
- AUTOMETER Water Temp
- AUTOMETER Electrical Fuel Pressure
- AUTOMETER Oil Pressure
- AUTOMETER Volts
- GReddy EGT
- GReddy A/F w dedicated sensor
- UEGO Wideband
- APEXi SAFCII
- GReddy Profec B-SPEC Electronic Boost Controller
- Raptor Shift light.
Only problem I had as with the GReddy A/F… The sensor bung was too close to my intercooler piping and it cracked the sensor. So it wasn’t an actual guage failure.
Aside from that it makes for a great airplane cockpit at night.
I run an autometer electic boost gauge. No complaints. Self calibrates on power up, sends analog signal to datalogger, hasn’t screwed up yet.
I’ve got an AEM wideband sensor/gauge and it’s key if you’re tuning A/F. Nice gauge.
Dual channel EGT is a good way to make sure your tune isn’t cooking your engine. (Redundancy is good!)
My car has a stock oil temp gauge, but if it didn’t, I’d want to add that too.
In general, lot’s of gauges are nice for tuning, but almost useless for racing unless you’re logging data. You want oil pressure and tach where you can see them. Much more distracts from the main event.
Dan
Well, it’s personal preference I guess, but usually people (myself included) would prefer to run air to the cabin of the car (as in a boost gauge) and leave the hot fluids in the engine compartment (oil press. and water temp.).
Plus, The one gauge I wouldn’t want to fail would be the boost, and as long as it’s a good quality gauge, it will always read the direct air pressure/vacuum as opposed to a wire going out and it failing.
I agree with tyler, but electrical will always be more accurate as everytime they power up they re-set their zero point.
Electrical FTW
Plus, The one gauge I wouldn’t want to fail would be the boost, and as long as it’s a good quality gauge, it will always read the direct air pressure/vacuum as opposed to a wire going out and it failing.[/quote]
Not all us us have engines that are ticking time bombs…You and your b18C5 :E
I think coolant temp would be one of the more important guages…Dont ever rely on a stock guage.
lmao, true enough Flavio, those truck engines can take a lot more abuse
I think I will go with the setup I posted above. Thanks for all your help guys!