Holly Shi#t I wish I would have saw this thread at page one, would have saved you from alot drama. “AHHH your engine died your ECU must be fried” come on guys, while it could be a posabilty there is no need to jump to conclusions.
Always start with the simple and most in expensive stuff when diognosing something.
The noise is the power steering pump. It’s not something in the head or the bearings in the block. If there was no fluid in the pump at all it would not make the noise but because there is a little fluid in there and it is prob really foamy it will make noise. THIS IS NOTHING TO WORRIE ABOUT!!! top up the fluid crank the wheel lock to lock a few time before you start the car to bleed the rack and you will be fine.
The obviuose problem would be the altinator. If the car is running but not charging it will run on battery power until the voltage gets to low to run the ecu and injectors etc… since the computer only runs on 5v the first thing to stop working would be the injectors which would cause bogging and iratic idol leading to the car not running any more. If you step on the gas while this is happening it kinda feels like you are running out of gas, but its not its just the injectors don’t have the power to creat a long enough pulse width to run at the higher rpm.
Now lets go over shorts. A short is a closed circuit, just like when you turn the key that gets the starter turning to start the car. When the starter is runing you have a closed circuit. The difference between a dead short closing the circuit and a starter selinoid closeing the circuit is amperage and usage. When the starter is running it is drawing alot of amperage (reason for big wire going to the starter), however it is using that amperage and turning that motor. The amperage is determined by how much the motor needs to get it to turne over. Ex if you had high compresion and the motor was really hard to turn over the starter would draw more amperage.
Ok now that you undersatnd that, how could a 20gage or even 18 gage wire that has a dead short drawing well over 3.3volt go unnoticed.
Answer to that question: IT CAN’T
Closeing a curcuit with a dead short would draw alot of amperage just like th starter but there is no usage so what happens??? All those happy little electrons are flowing through the wire getting all fired up but are not being uses so they get pissed of and say lets torch the place and they use up all of they’re energy by heating up the wire till it getts red hot , melts the coating off the wire and creates shorts in all the other wire it’s thouching and then the car pursts into flames.
I am not saying that short can’t go undetected but a short drawing that much power would deffenatly be flames. This is why we have fuses people.
“AND IN OTHER NEWS” it is possible to use a s13 ka alternator on a sr20 of any year… you simply just need to change the pully.
Before you say BS I’ve done it and the car is still runing with the ka alternator on the SR20 and its also useing SOHC power steering lines
Thanks for the tips Chris. Well, after going over several things including making a new grounding wire and going over everything that I could see that might cause a problem, I think I got it fixed. I put a freshly charged battery in and started her up, I noticed that it wasnt charging, but then I went for a spin around the block and when I stopped I saw it was above 14v!! So I guess that issue is pretty much solved. One note tho, not sure if it matters, but at one point the voltage at the batter was over 15v, is that normal?
Now I think I really need to get her timed propor because its a little rough at start and when shifting gears there is some poping. The timing was ‘eyeballed’ when we were starting it and it was tampered with before becuase the stickers were broken. So now my question is, how do you proporly time the engine? I want it done right, could anyone give me a hand doing this? I also do not have a timing light so I would need to find one of those.
Also, if anyone would like to help me put my walbro in I would love some help with that too.
and this is the second S14 SR into S14 that he has done this summer, not to mention the wiring or complete install of several other SR’s in ontario this summer as well.
if you are ever in doubt, call chris…if he has time on his phone that is.
Thanks guys. Well now that I installed my short shifter that I got from Bing (thanks for the rubber boot man!) and the boot it looks like its supposed to. I’ll take some pics of my stock shifter, its def bent somehow.
But anyways, all I have left is, timing, walbro, safc, and gap plugs. I think thats it anyways.
I could really use some help timing her propor, does anyone know how to do it and that would like to come by and help? Or I can come to you. If needed I could probably borrow a timing light from a garage I know.
Haha yeah well the way I herd is to take of valve cover and line up the CAS dots when its a TDC. I know it sounds easy, and I think I can do it no prob, Im just scared to damage the VC gasket when taking VC off or putting it back on, since I have S14 the gasket will have to be ordered from japan if I fuck it up. But I guess I can give it a try. The only thing I think I really need help with is walbro install since I herd the kit that comes with it is for s13 and wont work on my s14. Meaning there is some custom work to be done with stock pickup ect. Thanks!
He forgot to mention you need to disconnect the TPS plug. And you dont need to lift the valve cover up to get everything lined up, just hook up the timing light, (you will need to source that wire at the back of the cover that I showed you) and time it to 15 degrees.
Ok I did timing by removing valve cover and everything looked fine. Started her and still doesn’t run so great, I see some shaking in the motor and idle is high. Also it seems to be running really rich, I can just smell gas pretty strong. I don’t know it just doesn’t seem to be like when we first started it. I’ve been told to check timing with light now to make sure its at 15 because it might not be exact. But after that i’m not sure what else to try. Do you think there there could be an issue with maf maybe? Or would a voltage problem cause this? I mean too much voltage? I noticed when I checked the battery after a spin it was over 15v, then another time it was 14.6 or something like that, just wondering if that has any relation.
Also could having ungapped plugs make any difference? I have BKR6’s with whatever gap came in the box.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated, thanks for all the help thus far guys…Here are a few pics under my valve cover…
your doing well, now while the cars running move the cas with ure hands back and forth slowly and see which direction makes she engine sounds in harmony…i usually do timing by ear and not by the timing gun, then double check with the gun to be sure…
hmm the gap looks bigger than on the plugs i pulled from the motor when i got it. Should I try putting those Greddy Iridiums I pulled from it and see what happens? Also how does the timing light hook up, besides the loop in back? Sorry if its dumb question, but i’ve herd diff things. Thanks!
Ok i think i hooked it up good. Now I flashed the light and timing seemed to be way off or something. Is 15 degrees supposed to be the second notch from the left?? If so I had to turn it counter clockwise quite a bit, I can take a pic of its position now and from other ppls i’ve seen looks different. Also I noticed now a kind of clicking type noise from engine, its not constant but random clicking, its not that load but if you listen you can hear it, not sure what the hell that is. Hmmm…this is weird…also motor shakes randomly, not allot but seemed to be solid smooth when we first cranked her over.
