What is wrong with my brakes!!!!

SON240sx Automotive
1

[quote=“Hector”"]

step 1.) is the brake fluid level going down? if yes you have leak-fic ix , if no then you dont have a leak and go to step 2

step 2.) bleed a like a mofo, gravity bleed first open all the bleeders and let it drip out keep filling master cylinder as you go along then do a regular bleed starting at the furthest cliper and working oyur way to the drivers side caliper, if problem is fixed, drive, if not go to step 3

step 3.) remove calipers (do not undo lines) check pads and rotors for smoothness if smooth take some brake cleaner and clean off rotors and pads well, then take some 120 grit sand paper and sand down the pads and rotors well, clean off again, re-assemble then spray brake cleaner again and make sure the sil-glide is not dripping on to pad/rotors… if fixed go drive car and then make me some chicken balls if not go to step 4

step 4.) pull hose off of vaccum booster while car is not running, should make a sucking pop kinda liek when getting a blowjob and the girl pulls it out mid-suck, if it makes the noise you do not have a leaky brake booster, if it does not make the noiseyou have one of 2 problems, bad/leaky brake booster or a bad check valve, to check the check valve you have to take the check valve off and blow into it , if it blows both ways you have a bad valve -repalace it, if its good re-install it but make sure the side you blow that doesnt let air in is facing the motor side, so if you were to blow from the booster side it would open, if it didnt make the pop and the check valve is good you have a bad booster-replace- thew rason why the popping noise happens is due to the check valve being sucked shut5 form the booster side when vaccum is taken away from the motor side resulting in a n atomospheric condition , bosster should hold vaccum when car is shut off

if problem is fixed go drive and then make me some chicken balls, if not go to step 5

Step 5.) replace master cylinder, if fix good go make me some chicken ball, fuck the ride im hungry, if no fix make me some fucking chicken balls all this typing is making me hungry, and then ill drive to where you at and fix the fucking problem

[/quote]

i searched and found this very helpfull information but everything on my brakes is so screwed up i have no idea where to start or what to replace. Ok so here we go:

First i always had the braking and stereo shutting off…fixed my grounding system and all was fine.
second i went to my car one morning and pushed on the brakes and nothing…like nothing…so i started the car. When i pumped the brakes quick enough i could ACTUALLY STALL MY CAR WITH MY BRAKES!!!. So i look and i saw there was very very little fluid in the reservoir and threw some in and the brakes were not all what they used to be but worked fine for the day. The next day the same problem but no return of braking power…nothing
Then i went to bleed the system and noticed that my brakes were working (clamping) but not very well…especially the rears. So i went to bleed the passenger side rear brake and SNAPPED THE BLEEDER SCREW…now what? The fronts bled ok but the rears barely had any fluid coming out of them.
The pedal feel now is absolutely no brakes…the e brake is useless almost.
What do i do?
there is what i think to be fluid on the frame rail under neath the brake master cylinder and booster…so WHAT WENT WRONG???WHAT DO I REPLACE FIRST?. Fluid just sits in the reservoir and never goes down when i try to bleed the system.

sorry for the huge post…just want to get this fixed.

2

bleed the master? maybe theres still air in the system?

mechanics law. if you cant make your brakes work. make your horn louder.

oh and sweet 400th post

3

how would i go about bleeding the master.?..how would you explain the engine stalling?

4

ill take some pics on bleeding the whole system consitering i have the same problem

and ur engine stalls because its a 240. thats all.

5

ya it stalls at lights sometimes but i don’t think its supposed to stall when i pump the brakes like a mad man…lol

6

buy an auto? lol

240s have little things that never work and no1 ever know why, like no1 has the cap that goes beside the ciggeret lighter and above the ashtray.

7

from what i remember, is that, 240s, wil stall when u step on the brake, especially when you are coming to a full stop. The tach will all of sudden dip to like 200rpm, and stall or it will give itself more fuel and save it. Its just a really bad electrical issue we have. We usually clean out the MAF sensor in that case. BUT, are you saying you just have the car sitting there, pumping the brakes and it stalls? then you have a really bad electrical connection somehwere, try taking the positive connector on the battery for 2 min, then reconnect it to reset the ECU.see what happens.

If your brakes aren’t locking up at all, and barely clamping, it should be your MC leaking air. I had this problem a while back, i actually drove to certain distances with no brakes. So replace it, and try bleeding again. If you broke that bleeder valve, replace the caliper, you have no choice. Also, if your E brake does not even freaking work, then i think either your e brake cable is too loose, or its disconnected on the caliper. Or, the more common problem, seized calipers as whatever you try to pull or pump, it just stays still.

so try, disconnecting battery, and reconnecting to solve stalling issue
Clean out MAF sensor
Replace brake MC
Replace your non bleedable caliper
Tighten up your Ebrake cable or check if its broken/disconnected
Replace any caliper that you see is not retracting after you do all of that.

Rebuilding a caliper is less than 100 bucks, 50-70 actually… if you want i can help you out with seized calipers.

these are the more common/logical ways to solve it. it shouldnt’ be that retarded. Also, your cars electrical is probably hooked up to one signle unit, whcih cause the stereo (when theres like bass or whatevr)to flicker the headlights.
hope it helps.

8

flying chicken…thanks A LOT for the imput i will do what you said and get back to you …just need a MC
…and a CALIPER

9

lmao i have a master haha just let me make sure mines nto leaking and ill sell it to you.

10

kk hopefully no leaking

11

it actually isn’t normal for them to stall when the brakes are pressed, i have never seen this happen in any of mine or my friend’s 240s (SOHC and DOHC), you’ve got something wrong with your car.

and i can almost guarantee you it isn’t an electrical problem causing his car to stall unless he has a bad alternator and the battery is dead, my money is on the brake booster leaking air into the intake, MAF doesn’t see this air and doesn’t add the fuel to compensate for it.

12

ok so how do i fix the air leaking if it is that problem?..new booster???

13

thats what i’m thinking, get a buddy to listen around the booster/MC for a hissing sound when you push the brakes. if there is a hissing sound then replacing the booster is where i would start.

14

i actually just replaced my MC when i heard hissing sound at the time my brakes were useless. it fixed it all. but diff proble, diff solutions i guess.

and i didn’t say it was normal it will stall, i said most 240s have the same issue, which makes it almost a normal thing. (heh heh heh)

15

Brakes have nothing to do with the engine.

If it’s stalling out when you brake as other people have said, it could be the vacuum booster.

Other than that, a weak charging system can do it. Put a voltmeter on the battery while the car is running. You should see very close to 14v across the battery. Turn on the lights, stereo, defroster and fan. Check it again. Then get someone to step on the brakes and see if it drops considerably.

For a quick fix you can always turn up the idle a bit. But before doing that, does your 240 have terrible belt squeal? How tight is the alternator belt?

Now Hector, in the originally quoted post, showed you how to check the booster.

If the booster checks out, there is a one-way check valve in the line. If you follow the big fat vacuum nipple off the booster, you’ll find the check valve. It is usually used to join that vacuum line to another of the same size. Really easy to test. Put one end in your mouth and see if you can blow through it. If you can, turn it around and try and blow through the other side. If you can, it’s pooched. It should only allow air to travel one way.

Another good way to check why your brakes aren’t working is to look at the booster. If all the paint has peeled away from where the master bolts to the booster, and it looks like brake fluid has been leaking out - it has. This is usually what fails.

Inside the master is a pushrod with two rubber seals. This is what you move when you push the brake pedal. If the rubber has gone a bit hard, it will no longer seal properly. In this case, you start moving air instead of fluid.

If you’re really lucky, the master has been leaking right into the booster, instead of along the front of it. Brake fluid likes to eat rubber. Your booster is a giant rubber diaphragm.

A snapped bleeder may be broken part-way open. As a result, you’ll never get them to bleed.

And while I’m at it, to bleed the master, you bleed it just like the rest of your brakes.

Fill the reservoir with fluid, have someone pump the brake. Get them to hold the brake to the floor. Undo one of the brake lines from the master until it hisses. Tighten it back up.

Keep doing that until only fluid comes out and repeat for each of the lines.